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Ball Joint Replacement - It's Stuck!
http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r22398807-Help-Ball-Joint-Wont-Budge-for-Replacement-94-GMC-Sonoma-4 ^

Posted on 05/16/2009 6:47:08 PM PDT by Yak

Are there any Freepers out there that can help me w/a an automotive repair question?

I'm trying to replace my ball joints (upper & lower) in my '94 GMC Sonoma 4x4, and ran into difficulty -- I can't separate it from the steering knuckle! I managed to get the rivets & castle-nut off, but can't get the stud out of the knuckle.

I'm trying to replace a ball joint in my '94 GMC Sonoma 4x4 . . .

I can't use the special ball joint separator tool I borrowed from the auto store b/c the front transaxle is in the way and have no room to fit the tool in.

The pickle-fork just seems to move the upper control arm around, but the stud won't budge from the bottom.

I tried forcing the stud up w/ an improvised jack mechanism, but it's still not budging.

See attached. Any suggestions? Thanks. Mike.

http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r22398807-Help-Ball-Joint-Wont-Budge-for-Replacement-94-GMC-Sonoma-4


TOPICS: Free Republic Policy/Q&A; Miscellaneous; Reference
KEYWORDS: automotive; balljoint; carrepair

1 posted on 05/16/2009 6:47:09 PM PDT by Yak
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To: Yak

You need a pickle fork


2 posted on 05/16/2009 6:50:22 PM PDT by al baby (Hi Mom)
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To: Yak

Sorry home replacement of body parts is not recommended until Obama care goes into effect.


3 posted on 05/16/2009 6:50:28 PM PDT by w1andsodidwe (Jimmy Carter(the Godfather of Terror) allowed radical Islam to get a foothold in Iran.)
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To: Yak

4 posted on 05/16/2009 6:50:47 PM PDT by Mojave (Don't blame me. I voted for McClintock.)
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To: Yak

http://www.google.com/search?&rls=en&q=ball+joint+%2B+gmc+Sonoma+4+x+4&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8


5 posted on 05/16/2009 6:52:36 PM PDT by Cindy
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To: Yak
Heat it and then beat the B-Jesus out of it and it may separate.
6 posted on 05/16/2009 6:53:31 PM PDT by WellyP
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To: Yak

Ok, read this:

http://www.justanswer.com/questions/142ar-94-chevy-blazer-4x4-s10-need


7 posted on 05/16/2009 6:53:36 PM PDT by Cindy
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To: Yak

Can’t you take off the upper A arm?


8 posted on 05/16/2009 6:54:07 PM PDT by brownsfan (Kool aid comes in two new flavors: Hope and Change.)
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To: Mojave

big hammer (3 or 4 pound .. preferably dead blow) ... pickle fork ,, possibly dry ice...


9 posted on 05/16/2009 6:54:43 PM PDT by Neidermeyer
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To: Neidermeyer

Good thought with the dry ice.


10 posted on 05/16/2009 6:55:45 PM PDT by WellyP
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To: WellyP

Yeah beat the Pelosi out of it


11 posted on 05/16/2009 6:55:53 PM PDT by al baby (Hi Mom)
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To: al baby

Beat the Pelosi out of it but watch your knuckles.


12 posted on 05/16/2009 6:59:27 PM PDT by unkus
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To: al baby

If you don’t have dry ice handy, freeze the stud with a can of compressed “air” computer duster. Turn the can upside down so it comes out as a liquid. It’s basically freon and it’ll cool the stud down quickly. Canned freon will work, too.


13 posted on 05/16/2009 7:00:34 PM PDT by CarmichaelPatriot
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To: TPluth

Added to my bag of tricks!


14 posted on 05/16/2009 7:04:05 PM PDT by WellyP
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To: Yak

Put some tension on the ball joint in the direction that it would separate, and then strike the steering knuckle next to the tapered hole very sharply with a heavy hammer.


15 posted on 05/16/2009 7:05:59 PM PDT by norwaypinesavage (Global Warming Theory is extremely robust with respect to data. All observations confirm it)
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To: Yak

Put an air hammer on it (the longer the stroke, the better) and put a bucking bar on the knuckle (a sledge hammer or mallet works well for this).

Have at it with the air hammer, and it should pop right out.


16 posted on 05/16/2009 7:10:33 PM PDT by wrench
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To: Yak

can you heat and expand the outside?


17 posted on 05/16/2009 7:10:40 PM PDT by Mr. K (physically unabel to proofreed (<---oops))
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To: Yak

I’d be surprised if whacking the knuckle with a big hammer (between the end of the control arm and the backing plate) wouldn’t break the stud loose......leave it just as you have with the end of the stud supported.......put something beneath the lower control arm so it doesn’t fall more than an inch or two when (if, LOL) it breaks loose

one more, re pickle fork.....there are different slot widths....you probably need one with a narrower slot width in order for it to not be too sloppy where it meets with the ball of the stud, which is what it needs to encounter resistance on, not the control arm.....


18 posted on 05/16/2009 7:10:55 PM PDT by Vn_survivor_67-68 (CALL CONGRESSCRITTERS TOLL-FREE @ 1-800-965-4701)
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To: Yak; al baby

The pickle for and a dead blow hammer. Also a fire wrench A.K.A torch.

You won’t get the stud out of the joint until you heat the knuckle. You can take the fork and beat on it, but by applying oxy-acetylene type heat (not propane or MAP they don’t put out enough heat) to relieve the fit of the morse taper that is part of the stud and knuckle.


19 posted on 05/16/2009 7:18:03 PM PDT by Ouderkirk (Democrats: the party of Slavery, Segregation, Sodomy and Sedition)
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To: Yak
I managed to get the rivets & castle-nut off, but can't get the stud out of the knuckle.

Get some WD40 or equivalent and soak both ball joints.Get a BIG hammer and give it some good whacks right on the knuckle were the ball joint is connected. It should pop right off (keep the castle nut on, (loose) just in case.

If that won't work, you need a special designed puller to do the job. (Sometimes you can rent it from an Autoparts Store, or if you know any professional auto technician, he should have one in his tool box) I have several types on my own.
BTW, forget about the pickle fork...good for cars of the '50's, '60's, and '70's. It will do a lot of damage if you are not careful. Good Luck!

20 posted on 05/16/2009 7:25:56 PM PDT by danmar (Reason obeys itself,and ignorance submits to whatever is dictated to it! Thomas Paine)
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To: WellyP

“Heat it and then beat the B-Jesus out of it and it may separate.”

What he said.


21 posted on 05/16/2009 7:30:12 PM PDT by Kirkwood
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To: Yak
Take two hammers ( not claw hammers) have someone hold one tight to the side of the spindle arm ( place where the ball joint shaft goes through). From the other side hit the same part of the spindle arm sharply. May take more than one blow. The heavier the hammers the better.
22 posted on 05/16/2009 7:42:15 PM PDT by bamaintx
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To: Yak

A zip gun will do it.Ask a front end shop about it.


23 posted on 05/16/2009 7:44:24 PM PDT by HANG THE EXPENSE (Life is tough.It's even tougher when you're stupid.)
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To: Yak

A. Set it on fire.

B. Collect the insurance money.

C. Buy a Ford.


24 posted on 05/16/2009 7:50:39 PM PDT by SnuffaBolshevik
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To: Yak

Spray it down with some PB Blaster (designed to penetrate, whereas WD-40 just lubricates). After a thorough coating go inside and watch TV for a while. Then spray it down again, wait a couple minutes.

Hit the outside with a torch for maybe a minute solid. You won’t hurt anything since it’s a huge chunk of metal and the propane won’t get all that hot.

Then go for the pickle fork. If that combination won’t get them apart, it’s probably beyond your ability at home.


25 posted on 05/16/2009 7:55:27 PM PDT by BobbyT
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To: Yak

should have bought a mac...


26 posted on 05/16/2009 7:56:59 PM PDT by aMorePerfectUnion ("I, El Rushbo -- and I say this happily -- have hijacked Obama's honeymoon.")
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To: Yak

Make sure the vehicle is in neutral and the drive line tension is released.


27 posted on 05/16/2009 8:07:04 PM PDT by Bob Mc
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To: norwaypinesavage

“Put some tension on the ball joint in the direction that it would separate, and then strike the steering knuckle next to the tapered hole very sharply with a heavy hammer.”

This WILL work.


28 posted on 05/16/2009 8:26:56 PM PDT by The Antiyuppie ("When small men cast long shadows, then it is very late in the day.")
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To: bamaintx

I can see you have been there before.

This method works great and it works especially great with an air hammer with a shop hammer backup.


29 posted on 05/16/2009 8:36:39 PM PDT by biff
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To: Yak

Take it to your local GM dealer and get it fixed b4 Obama stops by and shuts the GM dealership down ...


30 posted on 05/16/2009 9:15:36 PM PDT by Lmo56
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To: Yak
You got a little ahead by removing the rivets before separating the stud from the spindle.

In the replacement part there should be some bolts, install them and then your jackstand approach should work as you let the weight of the vehicle onto it. A few blows to the sides of the spindle where the bolt goes thru, should free it if the jackstand approach is not enough.

It is also a good idea to put the castle nut on to prevent the sudden release from damaging you, or something else. If you've damaged the threads already, just lash a chain loosely around the upper control arm.

31 posted on 05/17/2009 5:22:12 AM PDT by PeaceBeWithYou (De Oppresso Liber! (50 million and counting in Afganistan and Iraq))
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To: Yak

A big firecracker?


32 posted on 05/17/2009 2:24:28 PM PDT by HiTech RedNeck (Beat a better path, and the world will build a mousetrap at your door.)
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