Skip to comments.Ball Joint Replacement - It's Stuck!
Posted on 05/16/2009 6:47:08 PM PDT by Yak
Are there any Freepers out there that can help me w/a an automotive repair question?
I'm trying to replace my ball joints (upper & lower) in my '94 GMC Sonoma 4x4, and ran into difficulty -- I can't separate it from the steering knuckle! I managed to get the rivets & castle-nut off, but can't get the stud out of the knuckle.
I'm trying to replace a ball joint in my '94 GMC Sonoma 4x4 . . .
I can't use the special ball joint separator tool I borrowed from the auto store b/c the front transaxle is in the way and have no room to fit the tool in.
The pickle-fork just seems to move the upper control arm around, but the stud won't budge from the bottom.
I tried forcing the stud up w/ an improvised jack mechanism, but it's still not budging.
See attached. Any suggestions? Thanks. Mike.
You need a pickle fork
Sorry home replacement of body parts is not recommended until Obama care goes into effect.
Can’t you take off the upper A arm?
big hammer (3 or 4 pound .. preferably dead blow) ... pickle fork ,, possibly dry ice...
Good thought with the dry ice.
Yeah beat the Pelosi out of it
Beat the Pelosi out of it but watch your knuckles.
If you don’t have dry ice handy, freeze the stud with a can of compressed “air” computer duster. Turn the can upside down so it comes out as a liquid. It’s basically freon and it’ll cool the stud down quickly. Canned freon will work, too.
Added to my bag of tricks!
Put some tension on the ball joint in the direction that it would separate, and then strike the steering knuckle next to the tapered hole very sharply with a heavy hammer.
Put an air hammer on it (the longer the stroke, the better) and put a bucking bar on the knuckle (a sledge hammer or mallet works well for this).
Have at it with the air hammer, and it should pop right out.
can you heat and expand the outside?
I’d be surprised if whacking the knuckle with a big hammer (between the end of the control arm and the backing plate) wouldn’t break the stud loose......leave it just as you have with the end of the stud supported.......put something beneath the lower control arm so it doesn’t fall more than an inch or two when (if, LOL) it breaks loose
one more, re pickle fork.....there are different slot widths....you probably need one with a narrower slot width in order for it to not be too sloppy where it meets with the ball of the stud, which is what it needs to encounter resistance on, not the control arm.....
The pickle for and a dead blow hammer. Also a fire wrench A.K.A torch.
You won’t get the stud out of the joint until you heat the knuckle. You can take the fork and beat on it, but by applying oxy-acetylene type heat (not propane or MAP they don’t put out enough heat) to relieve the fit of the morse taper that is part of the stud and knuckle.
Get some WD40 or equivalent and soak both ball joints.Get a BIG hammer and give it some good whacks right on the knuckle were the ball joint is connected. It should pop right off (keep the castle nut on, (loose) just in case.
If that won't work, you need a special designed puller to do the job. (Sometimes you can rent it from an Autoparts Store, or if you know any professional auto technician, he should have one in his tool box) I have several types on my own.
BTW, forget about the pickle fork...good for cars of the '50's, '60's, and '70's. It will do a lot of damage if you are not careful. Good Luck!
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