Skip to comments.Gun re-bluing, anybody?
Posted on 10/23/2010 5:46:18 PM PDT by djf
Anybody have any XP re-bluing guns? Recommendations? Products? Techniques?
I have an Ivers-Johnson .22 revolver and used Perma-Blue on it an would describe the results as "so so..."
Am I missing something?
Use the Iver Johnson for a “drop piece” when you have to use your principal carry weapon on some chump. Don’t waste your time or money on a reblue, just make sure your fingerprints are removed from it.
Ever seen an example of rust bluing? Pricey, but it will last a lifetime.
I fully understand, I’ve got a few toys like that too.
On the alcohol, don’t rub it down, dip it. What will happen is that the oil and stuff will come off and float to the top.
When you pull the gun out, rinse it in cold water then immediately begin the bluing process. You’ll find the results much more satisfactory.
Tried heating the gun? Multiple applications with a good wash and dry between? Some spottiness will even out after a period with a good oil coat over the finish.
I have done several. I bought a house where the guy left a few guns in the crawl space to keep the guns away from the kids. The guns were slightly rusted and somewhat pitted. Using the blue/rust remover with 0000 steel wool takes away the old bluing and rust and leaves the metal in the white. Degrease the metal and do a cold reblue. That and finishing the stock makes the guns look like new.
For the more inexpensive end of the spectrum, I’m going to put in a good word for Duplicolor 1200 Degree Auto Paint. It’s a ceramic rattle can spraypaint available at autoparts stores for about $9 a can. I finished a home AK build with it a couple years ago. It has worn very well and still looks great (for a Romanian AK).
Refinishing is all about the prep and degreasing. When you think you’ve degreased enough, do it one more time. This paint requires pre-heating the part, spraying, and then baking for an hour in an oven. Part of your refinishing cost will need to include sending your wife or SO to the mall or a long movie so you can air out the kitchen before she gets home. 8^)
Ah, practice!. Go hot bluing if you intend to do more than one gun.
Unless you are very lucky or have godlike skills, cold bluing is going to give your gun an inconsistant and unsatidfying finish. And even if you do manage to get it perfect, it will still be a thin and fragile finish that will not hold its appearance over time. Hot blue is where it is at. I have used this fellow's services many times. He is reasonably priced, doesn't overcharge for shipping and easy to work with. Incidentally/ he also does gorgeous work. ;-)
On the other hand, if your heart is set on the cold blue route...
Of the Birchwood-Casey blueing products, Perma-Blue is the worst and yeilds inconsistant results even if the directions are followed to the letter. If all you can get are B-C products, use their Super Blue instead. I use it for small parts all the time.
Several folks have mentioned Brownells. They sell superior cold blueing products. Their Oxpho-Blue is the bees knees.
I have been known to "cheat" and heat small parts (mostly boogered screws) during the bluing process. I strip, polish and degrease the part, then I heat it to 300-400 degrees (not red hot-that would be very, very bad for the steel), and then I dunk it in the blueing solution. I reheat between bluing applications. It delivers a deeper, richer blue that sort of appoximates a hot blue application, except in gloss. I suppose you could do a whole gun in this way, but I've never tried it.
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