Skip to comments.Need Freeper Help On Replacing Gun Cases
Posted on 09/25/2012 9:12:42 AM PDT by rmh47
I recently had a fire in my house. Most of my guns were in soft cases that got damp. Most of my longarms, which are blued, have some rust on them. Some have quite a bit of rust on them. I have been told by a respected gunsmith in my area to toss the cases, that they cannot be adequately cleaned. Thus, I need to replace the cases.
I need advice on what and where to buy new soft cases. Since Freepers (collectively) know everything, what better place to ask for advice?
Also, any advice on cleaning the rust off of these guns would be appreciated,
P.S. -- Did anyone know that smoke is acidic? It is highly corrosive. Anything metal in my house that was not protected in some way (painted, plated, etc.) is rusted or corroded, even though it was not exposed to anything but smoke.
Soft cases suck. All of our hardware is in hard cases when we travel and I always throw a sock filled with rice into each case as a cheap, environmentally safe, dehumidifier.
“Also, any advice on cleaning the rust off of these guns would be appreciated” try MAYBE fine Steel Wool followed by good Gun Oil.
Most of my firearms are kept in a gun safe with the dehumidifier that came with it plugged in (the cord is threaded through an opening in the bottom. Additionally, I keep the long guns in silicone-impregnated gun socks. This scheme seems to work since several of my shotguns are over 20 years old and show no signs of rust.
I forgot to add that most of my cases are soft but I only keep the long guns in them (still in their gun socks) for a few days and remove them whenever I arrive or come home.
And consider buying hard cases this time. ;-)
Pelican, the best.
At least it wasn’t a boating accident and you still have the guns.
(I couldn’t resist. Sorry.)
For the rust, try very fine steel wool, followed with some buffing. You can also get a blueing kit to do touch up work. Make sure you put a thin coat of oil on the metal portions of your firearms. I use Break Free CLP and have had good results.
As for cases, checkout midwayusa.com or cheaperthandirt.com.
Use “Blue Wonder” to get the rust off. Removes the rust without harming the bluing.
You can also use it inside the bore and on other parts.
It’s nasty, stinky stuff. Wear latex gloves. Follow label directions very closely.
Works WONDERS. Just like it’s name implies.
Ah where has the art of gun bluing gone?
I have a safe for storage. Bolt it to the floor. Don’t buy a cheap safe at the sporting goods store. Look at http://www.agenglish.com/. I’ve know them for many years and can vouch for their products and service. I bought from an un-advertised line of products and saved a bundle. They also have some used ones coming in occasionally. That might require some cajoling.
Best investment I ever made. You can keep all your valuables in a fireproof safe. You can buy an ugly safe and keep it in a closet and it works just as well as an expensive safe. If you or your better half are creative you can do some fancy artwork on it. Put flames on it, whatever you want. But Bolt it to the floor.
Usually a moving company delivers and sets up the safes. You can have it custom configured with shelves and such. Bolt it to the floor.
Also make sure you demand your insurance company replace any electronics in your house. Sometimes they will insist you have them cleaned but that just delays the inevitable. That smoke starts up corrosion and it could be 6 months or a year and suddenly your *insert your favorite electronic device here* fails to turn on, or just dies. Especially TVs, DVD players, Dish/directv boxes and computers.
If you need some cases, Boyt makes some of the best, and has for many decades.
http://www.midwayusa.com/ is an excellent source.
Link to all cases and safes, as well as other dehumidifers, etc:
No need to touch it with steel wool. In fact do not.
I use a commercial version of Bull Frogs rust remover (Cortec 423 followed up with a Cortec 416 rinse).
Environmentally safe & all that, takes steel down to white metal. The bluing comes off too, it is a form of stable corrosion. Need to reblue
Find the Bull Frog products on line and at some sporting good stores.
If you don’t want to re-blue just keep them oiled up, wipe with a cloth and re-oil. Eventually the oil wil release the surface rust but the guns will be more prone to rust unless re-blued.
There’s absolutley no reason to bolt the safe to the floor.
Just make sure the one you buy is light enough for someone else to pick it up off your body after the safe falls over onto you when you open the door up wide.
Only if you don’t want someone tie a chain around it and drag it through your wall. But then again you always wanted a picture window there. Piece of mind...priceless.
And yes, "smoke" is corrosive. When the CO2 released by the fire dissolves in water, it is acidic. And fire also forms nitric oxide in small amounts (which forms nitric acid when it hits water). Plus lots of organic acids from the carbon combustibles. None of which are "rust" friendly.
Kitty litter and stump remover ......
Do you think he should bolt it to the floor?
Take them apart and soak all of the rusted parts in plain old vinegar far a couple of weeks and the rust should disappear. This works great on rusty tools and things too.
Low priced soft side and hard plastic gun cases Midway USA always has their own branded products at a reasonable price. They will also let you round up the total price of your order to the next even dollar amount and donate the difference to the NRA.
Good luck on your restoration.
just in case he decides to keep helium in it.
Agree with cold heart...no steel wool and the Bull Frog product is good stuff.
Reblue as needed, store in dehumidified environment for a few days, apply Break Free CLP as directed, meaning let it sit for several minutes for wiping off.
Thanks also for the advice on sources for the cases.
I knew I could count on the Freeper community.
You may want to discuss this with a good, local gunsmith.
Been itching for a thread to share this link:
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