Skip to comments.Need Advice on Best Choice of Truck (Vanity)
Posted on 03/12/2013 6:34:05 PM PDT by Chuckster
I am going to be needing a prime mover to tow my boat from Washington to New Hampshire in a few months. I will also have to have a trailer built or adapted for my approximately 6000 lb, 27 foot long sailboat. I have trailered this boat before with a borrowed rig but now I need to buy one for the cross country move.
Can't buy new. New trucks just cost too much and I am not certain I would want a brand new vehicle anyway. My budget is probably around $10K to $15K for the truck.
I am thinking of something like a F250 extra cab 4X4 or similar GM or Dodge. After we get to the far side, the vehicle will be used as a farm truck and for towing horse trailers and such.
I have plenty of time so I am open to just about anything including buying a sixties vintage vehicle and having it customized for the purpose. Obviously, it does not have to be pretty but it would be nice to have something with a little style.
OK FRiends. What do you think?
Barack Hussein Obama would prefer that you buy a Government Motors product rather than a Ford.
One vote for Ford or Toyota.
I’ve never recommended this before, but buy foreign. Toyota Tundra.
The U.S. companies are all Obama sycophants, now.
Get a used F250 Diesel.
They are work trucks. The deisels will pull 250K miles and 6,000 lbs is easy work. Make sure you make it 5th wheel (gooseneck in Bed). No dualies needed.
We towed a backhoe everyday along with attachments, 2x12 and iron stakes (sometimes 12,000 lbs.) for about 200K miles on that truck before the crankshaft snapped.
You’ll also get decent gas mileage for towing.
(Hint - Keep oil in the crankcase)
We bought a 2000 Toyota Tundra a few years ago for $10K, the best auto we have ever bought. I love him.
That’s all I can tell you.
He can pull 3,500 pounds.
Sail it through the canal to Portsmouth!
Or have your wife do it if you don’t feel like it.
Heck, sail it around the Horn- you know you always wanted to.
Toyota is not quite there yet for the rugged full sized work truck. It’s still a bit flimsy and the suspension parts wear sooner.
Give them 4 or 5 more years though and I look to see them unseat the F-150.
The construction crowd doesn’t screw around when it comes to their livelihoods. The margins are slim and they use the hell of their trucks. By and large construciton folks and farmers still bet on Ford TRUCKS.
I’m not speaking for anything but work trucks here. The Tundra looks cool and has gobs of power. If you are going to street drive it and throw baseball equipment in the back occassionally, by all means, buy a Toyota.
Seriously? Ford. I've had mine for 44 years.
Get a used Ford 250 with a 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel (if you can find one).
Another vote for a used F250 diesel. Make sure it’s the 7.2 motor. It’s a stump pulling, marathon running motor.
We have rough country and hard winters here in Vermont. Just about all the pickups around here are either Fords or Toyotas. My choice would be a Toyota Tundra.
I think you want the option of four-wheel drive if you’re going to be in New Hampshire.
I think you would be better off with a 3/4 ton rig. 6000 lbs with trailer will be at least 7000 and you will probably want to load the pickup too.
Don’t know about the truck but for heavy duty, get a diesel engine.
You can use your choice of diesel or kerosene fuels. Caterpillar makes a good one, but you just about can’t get a bad diesel. Problem is, heavy duty lasts long, and you get to find out about the great resale value.
I own a 2001 Tundra with 425,000 miles. Gave to my son who still drives it. Bought a 2010 Tundra used. Love this truck. Would not buy anything other than Tundra.
I think the Tundra can pull it. I own one for 3yrs now, haven’t pulled anything that big, but I like it.
Sell the boat. Buy another when you get there.
Back in 86 I bought a new Ford F-250 with a 460 V-8. I already had an 85 Toyota 4X4 extra cab Toyota.
The Toyota never gave any trouble except the windshield wiper washer went bad. Toyota wanted some high price for the part so I bought a universal one at an Alco for $3. It worked fine.
I liked the Ford but it gave all kinds of trouble. Ball joints were totally worn out at 100,000 miles. Two of the wheels were warped as they came on the vehicle. Carburetor went bad and I replaced it with an Edelbrock for far less than a new Ford one I think it was made by Holley. Slave cylinder went bad, ad did the water pump. The firewall behind where I punch the clutch separated from the vehicle. It had been welded and I probably should have had it re-welded but instead I drilled a bunch of holes and put in nuts and bolts to keep it attached to the vehicle.
That old 460 engine itself never gave any trouble.
I talked to a guy who ran an irrigation business in Western Kansas. He used around 20 pickups in his business. He said the Ford’s front ends just would not take the abuse so he traded for Toyotas as the Fords wore out.
He said the Toyotas were far tougher, never had a bad front end with them.
Buy a F-250 diesel crew cab.
You can find good vehicles in that price range. A lot of the diesels are overpriced IMO, but a seven year old F-250 with around 100k in that price range would be my choice if I could find one...
I’ve had good luck with my Nissan Frontier. I know it has a Japanese plate, but it is made with non-union labor in Tennessee. Seems put together well. So can’t comment much on anybody else, but I give a thumbs up for it.
I thought Toyotas were made in America.
Ford F350 Dually: it’s not Gov’t Motors, the wide rear axle will make towing super stable.
(Hint - Keep oil in the crankcase)
I take it we don’t need to ask you how you know.
Rental U-Haul F450. Why would you buy anything for a one way trip?
Be smart. Buy quality. There's nothing patriotic about buying crap, no matter where it's made.
I would rent a Ryder.
If it breaks let them fix it.
I agree on the Ford F250 with one large warning. The 7.3 liter diesels are incredible engines. You almost cannot kill them. However...that engine was replaced by the powerstroke 6.0 liter diesel in about 2004 or thereabouts.
The 6.0 is a nightmare because of EPA regulations and a large number of other problems. In particular, the head bolts tend to pop off when the engine is under stress (from a heavy load, for instance).
You’ll find a huge amount of information at this forum and they do have a classified section for registered members.
Are you mechanically inclined, and do you really want a news truck or is an older truck okay?
I have a 2005 F250 gas 5.4 Liter for sale if you want to come to Florida to get it.
A Ford F250 with the 7.3L diesel will last a long, long time. These were 1999 thru 2003. Mine is a 2002 at almost 250k miles and still pulls great. Avoid the 6.0L (2004 - 2007). Not sure about the models after that.
The problem is that the market knows the 7.3L reputation. I see them for sale for (and get sold) for $20k+ regularly. I will keep mine even if I have to rebuild it.
I don’t want the exhaust fluid emissions crap on the new rigs. If it runs out, the computer cripples the engine. Bad thing if you are in the middle of an RV trip and went a little past the oil change mileage. They set them up to hit at the same time.
1st option. Sell the boat. 27’ sailboat just isn’t worth that much.
2nd option. Hire a boat hauler to bring it up there. Figure $3 a mile, under 2k to deliver. Less than the trailer...
3rd option, buy a large flatbed trailer and a old F-350 and haul it yourself. Figure about 10k to move a 5k boat.
have you considered selling the boat and buying a new one there?
(just a suggestion, I know how hard it is to part with one you love)
The POS is a rolling junk show.
Last GM product for me EVER!
First of all, buy used. Don’t feel guilty about buying a GM or Chrysler product because of the bailout. If your used truck was built before the bailouts, what difference does it make? GM/Chrysler will not be involved in your transaction.
New trucks are VERY expensive: 35K and up for something decent. And the new trucks have all the electronic gizmos, including tracking and monitoring, required by nobama. Buy used. 2008 or before. Check CarFax.
Full disclosure: I own a 2004 Chevy Silverado 2x4 with big V8 and love it. Gets 15-16 MPG. 85K miles. Almost like new :)
I agree with diesel as best option. But remember while a diesel engine will go many miles, chassis components don’t. They can be expensive.
I’d say by a plain new truck. Dealers usually have deals on them. Think you are correct to get a F250 but if the F150 will tow the weight, I’d get the new F150 for the money you plan to spent. Plain Jane model
Tundra w/ a 5.7L V8....it’ll pull that little boat like it was a child’s toy.
Having had like 15 Chevy trucks, last being a new ‘05 LT Duramax Diesel HD2500 loaded - get a Ford. Don’t buy from Gov. Motor Corp. Never!
Dodge has great engineering, great ideas, great features & looks. BUT, the quality just isn’t there like in Ford.
Really a no-brainer. Ford’s are best trucks made today. 10 years ago, it wasn’t so. Today it is. And they are not gov. owned. I now drive a Ford after 30+ years of Chevy’s and GM’s........
Tundra. Toyota is a best choice in every non-luxury segment including trucks. It is not a dog and still last.
1). Tundras are made in Texas
2) if you buy a Tundra, you’ll never get another truck because they don’t wear out.
3). We have 2 Tundras and 1 Ford ( gas 460 ). The Tundras get driven, the Ford doesn’t.
4). Diesel fuel is high but doesn’t contain ethanol in ever increasing amounts.
A F-250 or F-350 are the most likely trucks that you'll come across. In the 1970’s Ford had a heavy duty F-150 that would handle this job. Basically, it was a 3/4 ton truck equipped with ligher springs and 15 inch tires. To handle heavy loads, it had factory overload leaf springs that hit their pads after an inch or so of rear end squat. My 1978 F-150 was equipped from the factory for heavy towing and was used quite adequately for a 10,000lb 5th wheel trailer. If you do come across one of these beauties, the tires are likely to be incompatible for a heavy tow as the 15 inch wheels made it too easy to save some $$$ and put some non-LT rated tires on it.
Most of the talk has been on engine. Yeah, get a diesel or 460 V8. That will get you down the road without blowing the engine but other items will keep you from wrecking. Tighten up the steering via tie rod ends so the truck doesn't wonder around and will handle cross winds better. Check out the bushings in the rear leaf springs for the same reason. A heavy tow really pushes the back of the truck around and the rear suspension has to be tight. Put on new shocks front/rear (Rancho on a budget and Bilstein for high end). A transmission oil cooler is mandatory - Aftermarket coolers are a plus even if the truck has an OEM transmission cooler integral with the radiator. Flush the cooling system then pressure test. The pressure test will probably show up a leak if the radiator is weak from corrosion. Complete fluid change out for engine, transmission, differentials, power steering and brakes. Inspect the brakes - Besides the pads, wheel cylinders and such, the master cylinder could be weak. Look at the wiring to the rear lights - Repairs could be needed to fix sloppy splices made over the years for trailer light harnesses. Obviously, an electric brake controller is needed although you could find a truck in this category already has one. An auxiliary tank is a plus - If the wind picks up and in the mountains, the MPG can be cut by half.
Be cautious about trucks that are anything other than OEM suspensions. There are lots of sloppy suspension modified trucks with lousy suspension mods and body lifts around so they could fit some oversized tires and look cool. No body lifts period, no blocks on the rear leafs!
Just realized that I am rattling on now. Better stop! LOL!
Just say no to Chrysler or G.M.
I’d buy anything before I’d buy a gub mint motor pos.
Save your money and contract a professional hauler. It’s done here around the Great Lakes and here in Wisconsin all the time. They have insurance and all the expertise, permitting and all you would want for such a journey.
Then again, if you are trying to secure a badly needed truck, I would opt for something in a diesel (more HP when you need it) but at a high operating expense (fuel costs).
I would not go any smaller than a 3/4 or 1 ton truck built for such purposes. Good luck convincing your wife that you REALLY NEED a truck. (It can be done as wittnes to my F-250 Ford)
It will be at least 5 years old so it won’t matter. I have had Chevys in the past, a ‘53, a ‘64 and two ‘67s, one a pick up the other a Suburban. If I were buying new I would avoid GM products
Thanks. I'll remember that. d;^)
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