Hillary and over-lubrication, on the other hand...
Posted on 12/16/2016 9:29:08 AM PST by w1n1
“here is lubrication that is appropriate, and there are highly inappropriate methods of lubrication. Not a matter of too much or not enough, it is whether the right kind was being used.”
The right kind; putting aside the KY-Jelly and such, if the same metals are used for moving parts, example slide and frame on a semi-auto, you will get galling if the right lubricant isn’t used. Problem is especially bad with aluminum alloys even stainless. You see this condition on primarily some early guns but not so much anylonger as gun manufacturers have learned. Now, you will see dissimilar metals used when sliding against each other.
Just enjoy her
She’ll get old and neurotic soon enough
Absolutely. So many issues, the list is long.
Thanks for the addition.
For Hildebeeste, that would be exquisite torture: always watching the pour, never getting to drink. It would drive her start, raving mad (if she weren’t already there).
What kind of gun oil is best?
What thread were you thinking???
I’m thinking the joke was meant for this thread, now that it’s had time to sink in ...
Gun Porn Or Cute girls
Go along Way on a rainy day off.
Hey, I’m with ya !
It was a joke
Overlubrication
I think deciding what lubricant is best is sort of like Ford/Chevy. Different people have different favorites.
For a while Breakfree CLP seemed to be the choice then Milispec and so on. I have used a lot and they all seemed to be OK. Just plain motor oil will protect the surface as will a bunch of different brands.
I received several free bottles of SIG Sauer and Militec from
CDNN when I would make a purchase. They are good. I used Breakfree and Remoil for a long time and had no complaints.
I will say that WD-40 is controversial. Some like it and some including my gunsmith when I was in Kansas, hate it.
Two guys walk into a Bar,,
You’d think the first would
Have tipped off the second guy.
More Girls,Wardaddy!
If you have a Marlin Model 39-A, do not over-lubricate the slide. The slide has a free-floating firing pin. If it is lubricated too much, the resistance from the lubrication will cause it to not fire a lot. The extra lube creates a drag on the free-floating pin. After lubricating, always check the slide and dry the firing pin and pin slot. This is for all late-model 39-A guns. Earlier guns are not so sensitive.
“If you have a Marlin Model 39-A, do not over-lubricate the slide. .... If it is lubricated too much, .... creates a drag on the free-floating pin. ... late-model 39-A guns. Earlier guns are not so sensitive.”
Assuming maxwellsmart_agent means “breechbolt” when typing “slide,” the forum must be warned: no Marlin 39 or 39A has ever been equipped with a “free-floating” firing pin - if by that, he means a firing pin with an overall length less than the total length of the breechbolt, from hammer impact area to breechface.
All Marlin 39s and 39As have the same type of firing pin: flat left to right, taller than it is wide, no return spring, slightly longer than the breechbolt. There is a cam projection on the lower edge of the pin; when the finger lever’s external loop is swung down, the upper rear surface of its tip contacts this projection and pushes the entire pin backwards, off the cartridge rim. Only after that does the finger lever slide the breechbolt backwards to extract the spent case.
When the motion is reversed and the finger lever loop is swung up, moving the breechbolt forward to chamber the next cartridge, the lever tip’s rear surface clears the firing pin’s cam projection as the forward surface of that tip moves behind the cam projection on the bottom of the breechbolt, locking the breechbolt into place. Thus, the lever/firing pin cam interaction acts as a final safety feature, preventing forward movement of the firing pin, until the breechbolt is fully locked.
Proper operation of the firing pin cam can be observed, if on first downward movement of the finger lever loop, the firing pin moves backward slightly, pushing the hammer back, before the breechbolt starts to move back. This applies to rifles made before introduction of the rebounding hammer.
If maxwellsmart_agent’s Marlin 39A firing pin is sticking, his firing pin is not fitted properly, worn, or damaged. The breechbolt may be worn or damaged also.
He is correct in his observation that earlier guns suffer this malfunction less often. Marlin used to machine all its firing pins; later model guns have stamped pins, which sometimes exhibit rougher surfaces and burrs. Combined with less finely-executed machining of the firing pin channel in the breechbolt, this increases the chances for malfunction.
Older guns - 22 rimfires in particular - sometimes accumulate dirt, grit, fouling, pocket fuzz, and lubricant. Older lubricants can congeal,cementing all these contaminants into a solid substance immune to normal cleaning, and even remarkably resistant to chipping with a metal pick. Standard degreasing will not touch it; cleaning in an ultrasonic parts washer with a heated, grease-cutting solution usually does it.
Often, the crud is almost the same color as the metal, and is not easy to see. Enough of this crud can lock a gun up solid; it’s being seen more often by repair technicians, in guns made before 1970s or so - even near-new guns, about which the owner insists, “Can’t understand it. I only fired it once or twice, then put it away.” Before that date, new guns were shipped with a preservative grease that must be removed for best operation (but few manuals said so). Today, forty years or more on, that grease - akin to “cosmoline” once used by the military - is hardening into something like rock.
Not sure who Dave and Larry are, but they are flirting with disaster.
Unless they made specific provisions to drain the oil from the chamber and barrel, they risked blowing the gun to bits, and dealing themselves injury, possibly fatal.
I forget the precise modulus of elasticity for oils, but most are much closer to water, quite incompressible compared to air. Firing any firearm with even the slightest blockage of the barrel by any such incompressible material can rupture the barrel. Seen it happen to dozens upon dozens of shotguns, while working for a gun repair company. Rifles and handguns too. Snow, rain, mud etc do not mix safely with gun barrels.
One can see in the video, oil draining from the barrel of the handgun. The rifle is another situation entirely; rifle barrels are much longer in relation to bore diameter. Clearing liquid from the bore is a much more exacting task: care and patience are essential. Additionally, any gas-operated rifle has more places for oil (or water, or any liquid) to accumulate: gas tubes or pistons or cylinders. The hot gases that cause any self-loading rifle to function with speed quicker than the eye can follow are hitting tubes, cylinder, pistons etc with such pressure that any liquid inside will pose significant risk of rupture for the parts, just like the barrel can be split. Liquid inside the buffer tube, or inside the bolt carrier, pose less direct hazards, but can cause problems.
Additionally, guns with pistons and cylinders reach high temperatures in rapid fire, which can bake lubricants onto the moving surfaces like it was varnish, seizing the parts solid. All field/operator manuals for military rifles like the M1 Garand, the M14, the M1 Carbine etc warn readers in strong terms to keep pistons and clyinders and gas plugs, etc entirely dry and free of any lubricant.
“...over lubrication, especially revolvers, can cause oil migration into the ammo if gun is loaded. ... keep almost dry any areas that come in contact with ammo such as inside of revolver cylinder chambers.”
Lubricants - especially the thinner, penetrating types - can inactivate any cartridge. Most factory ammunition is sealed against moisture, but the penetrating lubes (Kroil is one of the best) can get vapors past such barriers. Handloaded ammunition is rarely sealed, and thus more prone to inactivation.
Chambers should be free of any lubricant before firing. Since lubricants reduce friction, an oiled chamber will let the case walls slide along the chamber wall, instead of sticking wall tight to wall at the instant of firing. Causes much higher pressures against the breechface, in some cases stretching revolver frames, or damaging bolts.
You too?
Me too. I must get out more.
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