Rocky Mountain National Park

vanity

[gop4lyf]

Me and my wife will be going to Estes Park,CO and the RMNP in July, and neither of us have ever been. I was wondering if anyone had some suggestions on what to see/do while we are there. We plan to do a lot of hiking and picture taking, but aren't really interested in the "extreme" stuff like overly challenging rock climbing. We just want to kind of take it easy and enjoy the sights and cooler temps.

[Red_Devil 232]

Ping to MtnClimber

[Trteamer]

Fall River Road up to the top, Trail Ridge Road back down.

Hike up Twin Sisters Peak.

Bear Lake.

[Mountain Mary]

For ten dollars, you can order a book called Rocky Mountain Day Hikers Guide. It’s fifteen at Borders: will give you lots of info and easy trails to find.

[CodeToad]

Go over trailridge road to the Grand Lake area. In between is a great place to watch Elk and all kinds of critters wander around. The views are breathtaking as the area is in the mountain peaks. Grand Lake is nice town on a very large lake area.

If you’re staying in Estes, the pizza place behind the McDonalds is really good. Love to motorcycle to the area and stop there.

[Dust in the Wind]

Hike slowly. Take good binoculars, you can spot wildlife way down the valleys. A breakfast trail ride out of Grand Lake is fun.

[Sherman Logan]

As others have said, Bear Lake is hard to beat. It’s got numerous valleys with trails angling off in different directions.

I particularly like Loch Vale.

If I remember the name correctly, there’s a dive in downtown Estes called Bob and Tony’s. Neat place. But that was a couple decades ago or so, so it might be gone.

[pandoraou812]

Maybe you can help here.

[Sherman Logan]

Fall River Road is also neat. If it’s still open.

[mojo114]

We were in Estes Park last September. Stayed at the Stanley Hotel, drove everyday into the National Park. The Elk herds were crossing the street downtown all the time, the Stanley was interesting and the NP was so much fun. You can play find the wildlife, as they bed down barely seen, right next to the roadway. I did have some problem with the elevation, feeling not quite myself, but certainly not enough to stop anything we wanted to do.
I think it helped that we had been in Denver for 3 days at a trade show before we left for Estes Park.

[bigbob]

Take Fall River road. Take lots of time. Take pictures! Take side-trips, it’s hard to go wrong.

Take a stroll down Pearl Street in Boulder, just to remind you of why the Park is so special!

[TigersEye]

Bob & Tony’s will always be here. I think it was here before the Indians found this valley. lol

[rawhide]

Fall River Road up to the top, Trail Ridge Road back down. (Note: does not open usually until July 4th every year. Be sure to stop at the overlooks often, as they can really show you God's creation better than from out of a car window)(2nd note: there is a great gift shop at the top, but about a mile or so further west from the shop on Hwy 34 is a pull-off for the Continental Divide marker. That is a neat place to visit. Then you can go back to Estes Park on Hwy 34, aka Trail Ridge Road)

Bear Lake.

Hike up Twin Sisters Peak.

As a former resident of Estes Park for many years, I agree with these suggestions wholeheartedly. Man, it took me years to get over leaving that place, and I still yearn for it at times.

Gop4lyf, for yourselves, go slow, and take your time. Let your body acclimatize to the higher elevation. That is why I suggest you drive around first. You may experience a little difficulty breathing, because the air is thinner up there, but you usually get use to it after a couple of days. I, in fact, remember getting very giddy when I first moved out there, from Florida, near sea level.

Have a great trip. I know you will enjoy everything you see and experience tremendously.

[old-ager]

If you have not picked a place to stay, and you like family-oriented placed, consider staying at the YMCA camp. It is a very beautiful place. College kids lead hikes from there of all lengths.

[CowboyJay]

July is a great time to go.

If you like group activities, Wind River Ranch has guided horseback tours up to Chasm Lake. They’re located on Hwy 7 directly across the valley from Long’s Peak. The owners, Geri and Bob, are great folks. Ranch guests get first dibs on saddles. If you go this route, call ahead to make sure they save a spot on the ride for you.

The Fall River/Trail Ridge drive mentioned above is nice. BIG panoramic views. Frequent Elk and Bighorn sightings.

If you like to hike, find the Wild Basin trailhead and hike up to Ouzel Falls on the St Vrain River. Has a more closed-in feel than other parts of the park. Gin-clear mountain stream. Lots of small cascades. Lots of Ouzels.

My personal favorite is the trail going down the Cache La Poudre river from its headwaters. The trailhead is on Trail Ridge Rd about 4-5 miles from visitor’s center, just before it crosses the Continental Divide (if you’re coming from the East). There is a small lake (I forget the name) and a parking area in the north side of the road. Park your car, and follow the outflow from the lake. Cross the road and follow the Cache La Poudre downstream through the high mountain meadow as far you care to walk. Loads of wildlife, butterflies, and wildflowers. Be sure to take a camera. If either of you fly-fish, take a rod and stuff a fly-box in a shirt-pocket. They aren’t big, but the trout in this creek are some of the prettiest anywhere. Easy walking-grade trail. Even on a busy day, you’ll rarely see another person more than 1 mile from the parking lot. It is off-limits to horses, so you won’t have to tiptoe through road apples.

I don’t know what your experience-level is. There are a few recommendations I’d make for 1st time visitors:

1) Bears normally avoid humans, but they are there in numbers. Bears love honey. They can smell it from a good ways off. Peanuts, raisins, and beef jerky are recommended trail food. Granola and Power Bars are a no-no.

2) Mountail Lion attacks are even rarer than problems with bears, but there have been children taken from trails and eaten over the years. If you bring kids, do not lose sight of them.

3) Long pants and long-sleeves are recommended. Even on hot days, they will help keep the mosquitoes from sucking you dry.

4) Skeeters can bum your day in a hurry. Recommend taking insect repellent that is 90-100% DEET. Sunscreen is a must even on overcast or cool days. Very little air to deflect UV rays when you’re 11,000 feet up.

5) If you’re going more than 1/2 mile from the car, take a jacket, a hat, food, and as much water as you can comfortably carry. Elevations in the park run from about 8,000 feet up to 14,000. Even short hikes up there can leave a person hungry and thirsty. Turn around and head back for the car before your water supply is half-gone.

6) Elevation has a disorienting effect on some people. It’s easier than you might think to get turned-around. If you can’t see the trail you hiked-in on, you’re lost. Don’t get lost.

[Theodore R.]

I was there in July 1990, and it snowed one Saturday afternoon at the lower levels.

[pgyanke]

You’ve gotten some great replies already of many of the things my family likes to do there. MUST DO Fall River Rd as stated many times... make sure your rental car has good undercarriage clearance...

Here’s something not mentioned... drive into RMNP and park by the Grand Meadow near midnight. Lie on your backs. See the stars. Better yet (but not for the feint of heart), climb a small peak at night and see the stars from there... you will never forget.

I recommend the Inn on Fall River for a romantic stay.

[Vasilli22]

My family and I go to Estes Park every summer for 2 weeks. We have done so every year since 1978.

Hikes: Bear Lake is beautiful but very crowded. There are several hikes off the Bear lake trail head which are very nice. Alberta falls is beautiful and only about a mile with very little elevation change. If you want more of a challenge, head over to the Fern Lake trail system which can be accessed from Bear Lake or from Moraine Park. Great elk watching and good fly fishing in Moraine Park.

As far as food, somebody mentioned Bob and Tony’s, good pizza. My personal favorite restaurant is the Dunraven Inn. Great Italian place out 66 toward the YMCA camp. It’s also a favorite with the locals. Smokin Dave’s is a great barbecue place also out 66 at the Mary’s Lake Road intersection.

If you want anymore advice, feel free to shoot me a freep mail.

You will absolutely love it! Have a great time!

[Cinnamontea]

Definitely take Trail Ridge Road. Make a stop at the Alpine Center and walk the trail at the center--it starts at the parking lot and ends at an overlook at an altitude of 12,000 feet. It's a short, safe walk with a great view at the end of it. If you're coming from the flatlands, though, walk slowly -- more slowly than you think you need to.

[Daniel II]

Hear, hear on the drive to the top (the view can’t be described) and the drive back down. It’s been awhile, but doesn’t it go through Granby?

[MtnClimber]

If you are coming from lower altitude I would take time in gaining elevation before doing anything strenuous like hiking or climbing. If only doing photography from the car or driving and sightseeing you should be OK with little acclimation. Altitude sickness can ruin several days of your trip if you go too high, too fast and do too much. I live at 8500 ft elevation and can see many mountains to the NW in Rocky Mountain National Park and have climbed very many. When I have business trips to sea level for much time I can even have altitude symptoms when I come home. The key is gradually increasing exertion and altitude. You can plan well and avoid altitude sickness, at least the worst of it.

First, carry and drink plenty of water and have clothing that covers the changes in weather. It is not uncommon to start a hike in 80-90 degree heat and have snow or almost freezing rain move in. Start hikes lower and work your way to the higher elevation hikes to give your body time to acclimate. There is a list of the “Ten Essentials for hiking” that you should be able to find on Google that will give protection if all does not go as planned.

My recommendations: Start first day at lower elevations before going to the park. Boulder (just over 5,000 ft) has some fantastic hiking and scenery with non-technical trails to peaks that are just over 8,000 ft. I would judge my basic fitness and acclimation to altitude here with a choice of easy trails and steep trails which you can easily change based on how you feel. The scenery is fantastic and altitude/risk is lower than RMNP. I would recommend: A. The Shadow Canyon trail off Eldorado Canyon road trailhead (get a map, possibly on-line). B. The Bear Canyon Trails starting from the National Center for Atmospheric Research (NCAR) parking lot (free) at the west end of Table Mesa Road. C. The Green Mountain Trails starting from the Chataqua Park parking lot off the west side of Baseline Road just before it enters the mountains.

If you plan on hiking, I would recommend the trails at Lumpy Ridge outside Estes Park as the next increase in elevation. Less visited, but spectacular scenery. Bear lake is also a must-see and has easy trails to the lake as well as trails to very high lakes like Emerald and Nymph or trails to the summits of high peaks. You may need snow gear like gaiters, proper boots and possibly ice axe to venture up high. If you are a hiker, save the Trail Ridge Road trip for a rest day. It is a required trip though. If you are more a wildlife photographer, the road to the Bear Lake parking and Trail Ridge Road are great places to spot deer, elk and even moose. I once had a coyote stalking a ground squirrel walk past me only six feet away and never took focus off the squirrel until the squirrel went down the hole!

I would avoid the temptation to climb Longs Peak unless you have plenty of training and time to acclimate to altitude. I have climbed it and most other 14’ers in Colorado, but I have never been successful in guiding any friends higher than the Boulder Field on the normal route without them getting clumsy/falling down or throwing up from altitude sickness. This area is before the easiest route goes from easy to pretty dangerous past the “keyhole”. PM me if you want more info. I have done much photography in RMNP and have taught mountaineering classes in the past, including climbs in the park, for Colorado Mountain Club.

[Guenevere]

I have a fear of heights and going up & over Trail Ridge just about did me in :)

Beware that it's over 12,000 feet to the top....with some very narrow passages.....

..but once you make it to the top, there's a gift shop & small restaurant, plus spectacular views.

Estes Park has lovely shops and restaurants and a must see is the ..Stanley...a beautiful turn of the century hotel that use to cater to wealthy folk touring the West & Colorado.
..you can't miss it, it sits on a hill overlooking Estes Park.

[Guenevere]

Maybe you can help! :)

[Vinnie]

Beautiful. Go up Mt. Evans, not in the Park but close.
Mountain goats roaming around.

[greedo]

If you sit on the rocks to enjoy the view up there, this little guy will run up your back
and crawl around on your head.

As soon as they realize there is no food on you, they run away.

[Explodo]

I lived in Estes PArk for a couple of years in the late 80’s here are my suggestions:

Check out the “Alluvian Fan”. This is the remnants of the Lawn lake flood. The Sheer Scope of the event is laid out in front of you in unmistakable fashion. You can also Hike up the creek/stream for a couple of miles quite easily.

Go check out the YMCA of the rockies. You can drive up to the top emerald mountian. You get a view of the entire front range that will take your breath away.

Hike to the top of a Structure right in Estes PArk called “Old Man Mountain” wonderful little hike...wonderful view.

Be sure, when you are driving around in the park itself, to stop at a place called “Many Parks Curve”. Great place to take pictures and enjoy the view.

For some entertainment, there is a club in downtown estes park called Lonigans. Most nights during the summer there is a very good band and the drinks in high altitude are marvelous.

Enjoy.

[gop4lyf]

I really appreciate the detailed responses that yall have given. I live in Dallas so the only mountains around here are the ones that end up on my desk!

[TalonDJ]

It is great even if all you do is drive through it slow stopping for the short hikes to overlooks.

[gopheraj]

At Amazon you can get it used for $5.20

http://www.amazon.com/Rocky-Mountain-National-Dayhikers-Guide/dp/1555661106/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1243948759&sr=1-3

[fieldmarshaldj]

Lucky you. Probably going to be incredibly crowded in July, though.

[EternalVigilance]

As a direct descendant of Joel and Patsy Estes, I’d love to tell you to visit the original family homestead. Unfortunately, it’s underwater. :-(

Enjoy. It’s one of the most beautiful places on the face of the planet.