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Transmission Fluid Changes a Scam
hotfudgedetroit.com ^ | 5/1/2007 | Mark Phelan

Posted on 05/01/2011 10:49:54 AM PDT by Signalman

Take care of your transmission Oil-change shops push fluid changes that aren't needed May 1, 2007

BY MARK PHELAN FREE PRESS COLUMNIST The $14.99 oil change Linda Good wanted for her 2001 Dodge Voyager ended up costing her more than $100 and buying her a new set of worries. A Madison Heights oil-change shop sold her a transmission fluid change that is almost never necessary, experts say.

"For customers, it's basically throwing your money away," said Daniel Black, Chrysler senior manager of automatic transmission engineering. Despite that, many service stations -- including leading national chains -- offer the procedure. There's no telling how many people pay for it every day. After the oil change, the service attendant said the Voyager's automatic transmission fluid looked dirty and should be changed. Good, who relies on the minivan for her housecleaning, Avon sales and home caregiver businesses, took his advice. The rough, clunky shifts began before she got to the first traffic light. Good cleans my house and knows I drive cars for a living, so she called and asked me how much trouble she was in. Potentially plenty, and it could happen to you. "We don't recommend a" transmission fluid "change in the life of the vehicle," Black said. "The risks are leaks, putting the wrong fluid in, over-filling or under-filling." A bungled fluid change can destroy an automatic transmission or void the manufacturer's warranty on the delicate and expensive component. "As a general rule of thumb, newer transmission designs are sealed for life," said Tim Miskotten, who leads North American business for ZF AG, the German company that is the world's largest independent transmission maker. ZF supplies gearboxes to Ford, Audi, BMW Jaguar and other leading automakers. "You don't need to change the fluid in the normal life of a vehicle," Miskotten said.

Chrysler makes its own transmissions, and its minivans routinely cover 150,000 miles in service as Las Vegas taxis without a transmission fluid change, Black said. "They're our toughest customers," because of constant stop-and-go driving and 24-hour-a-day operation in the blazing desert heat, he said. Black wouldn't diagnose Good's vehicle over the phone, but he said rough shifting after a fluid change could be caused by a refill with the wrong fluid. While few vehicles ever need their transmission fluid changed, even national auto service chains like Jiffy Lube offer the service as routine maintenance. On the rare occasions the fluid actually should be changed, it should be done only by a technician who's certified to work on automatic transmissions and has access to specialized tools and the exact fluid the manufacturer specifies, ZF's Miskotten said.

"You can't just go to the service station and pick up a quart," he said. Each transmission requires fluid produced precisely to formula, he said. "You absolutely have to have the fluid that's specified. It's no longer the case where" an oil shop "says 'We have ATF.' " Using the wrong fluid can lead to rough shifts and noisy operation, he said.

"The correct fluid is most important for shift quality," Black said. It's also vital to fill the transmission to precisely the right level, both experts said. Transmission fluid levels are much more exacting than engine oil, where you can miss the sweet spot by a pint or more with no consequences. "If a vehicle is under-filled and operated in cold weather, you could have a transmission failure," Black said.

Even transmission specialists don't do fluid changes very frequently, said Barry Bryan, owner of American Transmission in Troy. "I check the owner's manual," Bryan said. "If the manufacturer says the fluid never needs to be changed, I agree." Changing the transmission fluid doesn't help if there's already damage, said Bryan, who has owned his station since 1985 and has 40 years' experience working on transmissions. "A problem in the fluid is a sign of other trouble."

After Good had problems with the minivan, she went back to the shop, where she was told she needed more fluid and told if she had more questions to go to a nearby shop under the same ownership. At the second shop she was told to go to a transmission specialist. Mo Dia, who owns Major Oil, where Good had her van serviced, said he recommends a change when fluid is the wrong color or has a burnt smell, adding that the shop does not change fluid if the owner's manual says it is not necessary.

"Does that mean it was a mistake if somebody changed the fluid in a Voyager where Chrysler says it's not necessary?" I asked. "If the vehicle is over 100,000 miles, you don't go by the owner's manual," Dia said. Chrysler said the owner's manual advice still applies after 100,000 miles. Dia initially said he kept every type of transmission fluid in stock. Asked about ATF +4, the fluid Chrysler specifies for the 2001 Voyager, he said, "We have an additive, Smart Blend, to convert regular automatic transmission fluid to ATF +4." "We haven't tested that additive," Chrysler spokeswoman Heather May said. "It's not something we'd recommend." Ten days after the fluid change, Good's Voyager still has rough shifts, but she's comforted knowing that it could be much worse.

"I thought my transmission was going," she said. "That would be a big expense."


TOPICS: Miscellaneous
KEYWORDS: scam; transmissions
Navigation: use the links below to view more comments.
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To: Signalman

If your car has over 100K miles, opening the tranny for the first time to service it can give you a lot of problems.

Mercedes seals their trannys. You don’t even get a dipstick but a tamper resistant cap.

If your tranny is slipping or having issues, then changing the filter and fluid might help it; you really have nothing to lose except for the parts and service cost.

If the tranny is cruising your neighborhood, call the cops, it might be Ru Paul...


51 posted on 05/01/2011 12:25:51 PM PDT by Lx (Do you like it, do you like it. Scott? I call it Mr. and Mrs. Tennerman chili.)
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To: chicken head

Nice. I have the same car....at least I think I can read ‘Camaro’ when I scrape the rust. One day...


52 posted on 05/01/2011 12:26:42 PM PDT by lacrew (Mr. Soetoro, we regret to inform you that your race card is over the credit limit.)
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To: lacrew

You are being facetious right?

=8-)

Grab some old car manuals for Toyota, Honda, Ford, VW...though the stuff is sold in quarts, note the unit used often to note capacity - and the unit used often to identify what the tickers relate to on the transmission dipstick as opposed to the engine oil dipstick.

=8-)


53 posted on 05/01/2011 12:28:27 PM PDT by =8 mrrabbit 8=
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To: lacrew

i just bought a 1957 chevy belair 2 door— thats my next project- i also bought a 67-327 engine to put in it— thats gonna be my toy—lol


54 posted on 05/01/2011 12:29:01 PM PDT by chicken head
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To: chicken head

i gonna fix my 57 up like this but with a small block instead- and candy apple red

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fpi6d5Y8PJs&feature=channel_video_title


55 posted on 05/01/2011 12:32:33 PM PDT by chicken head
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To: =8 mrrabbit 8=

I just hit 80K miles on my 05’ Honda Pilot and had the dealer change the transmission fluid for the first time. They wanted me to change it every 30K miles. At 80K it was as clean, non-burnt, as the day it went in.

15K or 30K transmission fluid changes are a complete waste of money.

I’ll probably wait until 150K to change it again.


56 posted on 05/01/2011 12:32:33 PM PDT by TSgt (Colonel Allen West & Michele Bachman - 2012 POTUS Dream Team Ticket!)
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To: Signalman

We have one of those machines in our small truck shop that pushes new transmission fluid through while it flushes out the old.It takes a few extra quarts to do this.It’s suppose to clean out the filter so you don’t have to remove the pan to replace it.If you do the drain and drop the pan to change the filter method,you’ll have old fluid trapped in the torque converter.That’s why the flush method is recommended so much.


57 posted on 05/01/2011 12:32:38 PM PDT by Uncle Meat
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To: Signalman
For tran. oil changes I'd go by the owner's manual. On the older cars I had I went by the color of the fluid. If it was clear red, I left it alone.
58 posted on 05/01/2011 12:33:46 PM PDT by count-your-change (You don't have be brilliant, not being stupid is enough.)
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To: chicken head

67 Camaro?
You lucky guy.
Pretty rare car.

I’ve had 3 Camaros in my life, all sweet assed perfect cars.
My first car at 16 was a beautiful white 78 305 cc with a pearlesent white lacquer paint job and red interior.
I totaled it.
My second was a incredibly sweet silver 78 Z-28.
Looked almost exactly like the car Spicoli totalled in fast times but better.
I totaled that one too.
My third car was a real nice gold 80 Z with T-Tops that i bought off of my electronics teacher.
That one lasted me for many years, then i sold it for 500 bucks to put my new at the time Supra Turbo on the road.

Argh....

The new Camaros are pretty sweet, too bad i neither can afford one now and for the fact that i am done with GM.


59 posted on 05/01/2011 12:35:00 PM PDT by mowowie
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To: mowowie
Odd thing I found is that a Honda CRV will get oxidation in it's differential and eventually sound like a bad CV joint unless the fluid is changed. It's the only vehicle I have ever heard of doing that.
60 posted on 05/01/2011 12:35:07 PM PDT by Hillarys Gate Cult
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To: dragnet2
If ya don't do this, your putting new oil in with old nasty dirty oil.

No reason to leave the drain plug out for two hours. It's sufficient to do it until the oils stream turns from solid to drips. Once you're down to a ten-count between drips, you're done. None of my cars have ever failed me due to oil change issues. As a matter of fact, I used to have an old 1951 chevy truck that didn't have an oil filter on it (it came with one, but it was the source of too many leaks). I just changed the oil every couple of months, regardless of driving. That truck's been running on and off for more than 20 years doing that. Never leaked, always ran. I had more issues with the carb gunking up with varnish after sitting for too long than oil issues.

61 posted on 05/01/2011 12:36:44 PM PDT by IYAS9YAS (Rose, there's a Messerschmit in the kitchen. Clean it up, will ya?)
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To: dhs12345
Ha, that same thing happened to me when I was 16 with my first car 1971 chevy el camino. Took it to the high school shop teacher and he looked at me like I was an idiot. Filled the tranny and drain/filled the oil in the HS parking lot. Lesson learned.

Reminds me of the time as a kid when I changed the engine oil in my car. I couldn’t figure out why the transmission was slipping while I was out for a test drive. I coasted over to the curb and checked the transmission fluid — nothing. Not a drop. I checked the oil — it was well above top mark on the dip stick. I pulled the plug on the transmission fluid instead of the engine oil. The car was fine after I added transmission fluid and drained the oil. My grandfather had a good laugh.
62 posted on 05/01/2011 12:40:41 PM PDT by VastRWCon (Taxed to Death)
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To: Kansas58
Lots of work release prisoners work at these joints in my area!

They can rehabilitate these guys on their own dime - I had one of the 'wanting to go straight' people put 50 lbs of pressure in two of my tires... These folks need factory jobs where they can't damage citizens ...

63 posted on 05/01/2011 12:42:29 PM PDT by GOPJ (Understanding the Koran: http://www.citizenwarrior.com/2009/05/terrifying-brilliance-of-islam.html)
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To: lacrew

I own a repair shop and have a transfusion machine. I warn may customers that if there car has never had a trans fluid change and have over a 100k there taking a risk. I have had cars that would not even back out of the shop after a flush.
If you have done regular changes you should fine.Places like jiffy lube are not your friend.


64 posted on 05/01/2011 12:45:29 PM PDT by sopwith (don't tread on me)
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To: =8 mrrabbit 8=

Sometimes people on the internet amaze me. Even if you were correct, you could have had the self control to prevent correcting me on the unit of measurement. Think about that - what itch is it that you just can’t scratch, without correcting somebody on something not pertinent to the discussion. Beyond that, I am in a car right now (2002 Elantra). I opened up the manual and what do you know, the transmission capacity is in quarts. I’m parked at a gas station, about to go in. If I needed to buy transmission fluid, they would sell it to me in a one quart container. If you go to the auto parts store and ask them to look up your capacity, they will answer in quarts. All the dipsticks I have ever used have had a high level and low level mark...none of the tick marks of which you speak. Is it possible that some dipsticks have pint tick marks? Sure. This is why I am going to resist the urge to needlessly ‘correct’ you. I continue to be amazed at the expertise of people on the internet...and their desire to spread their knowledge, even when not requested.


65 posted on 05/01/2011 12:46:55 PM PDT by lacrew (Mr. Soetoro, we regret to inform you that your race card is over the credit limit.)
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To: TSgt

You didn’t specify whether it was a non-filter setup or a sealed and filtered setup w/blend or synthetic setup.

Any competent mechanic will tell that even with the sealed and synthetic setups - the fluid will not lost forever UNLESS forever means you intend to replace your car every 7-10 years.

If you intend to keep the car around longer...

The 15k or 30k rule applies...

=8-)

I just did a partial on my 2008 Tacoma Crew-Cab Short Bed at 40k. A tad late... For this vehicle - it amounts to about 1/3 of the total fluid capacity.

=8-)


66 posted on 05/01/2011 12:46:55 PM PDT by =8 mrrabbit 8=
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To: dragnet2

I run the recommended dose of Sea Foam through the engine on the Toyota for 30 minutes before hitting the dealer for the oil change. The oil coming out looked black from the upper block deposits it scavanged.


67 posted on 05/01/2011 12:50:11 PM PDT by Dick Bachert (2012 CAN'T COME SOON ENOUGH FOR ME. HOW ABOUT YOU?)
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To: Kansas58
Jiffy Lube had to buy me a new transmission, because their idiots put motor oil into my transmission, by mistake!

I know of a case in which Jiffy Lube told their customer that his transmission (manual) was dry of oil. Of course, put some in, he said. The problem was they looked in the inspection hole for the timing mark on the flywheel, and saw no oil. They proceed to pour several quarts of oil onto his clutch.

They paid for his new clutch. I don't think he uses Jiffy Lube any more.

I have also heard of them putting power steering fluid in the brake fluid reservoir.

68 posted on 05/01/2011 12:52:19 PM PDT by Fresh Wind ('People have got to know whether or not their President is a crook.' Richard M. Nixon)
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To: lacrew
"I wipe the shavings off the magnet, change the filter, add back the amount of fluid lost when I dropped the pan, make the sign of the cross, and go on with life"

Same here. At no particular milage, just when the fluid gets nasty.

69 posted on 05/01/2011 12:59:40 PM PDT by moehoward
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To: lacrew

When I said grab some old manuals I really meant old as in “1970s” and “1980s”.

I have worked - minor stuff - not overhauls - on many cars in my life and back then ran across quite a few that treated the engine capacity and dipstick as quarts and the transmission capacity as pints or pints/quarts and the dipstick as pints. Liter’s is another word you’ll see.

It didn’t matter whether foreign or domestic...it popped up often on both.

Back in those days it wasn’t uncommon for a newbie to overfill a transmission because they forgot to check the computer manual or the car manual to see whether the dipstick measured pints or quarts. A turkey baster with hose would solve the problem quick - mess free.

I could be wrong but my brain is thinking that my 1987 Hyundai Excel and my 1977 Honda Accord were pints/quarts with a dipstick that measured pints.

It’s been awhile...

=8-)


70 posted on 05/01/2011 1:00:38 PM PDT by =8 mrrabbit 8=
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To: Signalman

I HAVE DRIVEN CARS FOR NEARLY 60 YEARS AND I HAVE NEVER CHANGED TRANSMISSION FLUID. I AM CURRENTLY DRIVING A 1999 DODGE CARAVAN WITH 280,000 MILES AND THE FLUID HAS NEVER BEEN CHANGED.


71 posted on 05/01/2011 1:20:12 PM PDT by Pardeeville Liberator
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To: lacrew
“I would never do the ‘transfusion’ the shops offer...seems like alot of stuff can go wrong.”

Like burning up the front pump in the transmission. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt.

I do my own, now days. Fluid & filters are available at Walmart, Autozone, O’Reilly Auto Parts, Chief, NAPA, and others. It's easy enough, even on my sloping driveway. Just bought a large flat pan at Walmart to keep the drips off the drive... Should make cleanup easier.

72 posted on 05/01/2011 1:23:33 PM PDT by Old Student
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To: =8 mrrabbit 8=

Sealed filter, OEM Honda fluid, i.e. dealer did it.

I’ll change it a little sooner next time, 120K.

They are mostly highway miles and I don’t drive it much now that I work from home. It shifts smoother after the fluid change.

Speaking of fluid, the VTM has to be changed every 20K miles.

A pain in the @#$@#$

;)


73 posted on 05/01/2011 1:34:45 PM PDT by TSgt (Colonel Allen West & Michele Bachman - 2012 POTUS Dream Team Ticket!)
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To: =8 mrrabbit 8=

“I have worked - minor stuff - not overhauls - on many cars in my life”

I have worked on...errr...major stuff...and often.

Now I’m just having fun...that 2008 Tacoma you changed the fluid on....when you looked in your owner manual, it listed this information: the 4 speed takes 2.1 quarts and the 5 speed takes 3.2 quarts:

http://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/om/OM35898U/pdf/8_1.pdf

So yes, as inconsequential as this is, I will continue to use quarts when describing the capacity of a transmission - this way I will match everybody else in the world.


74 posted on 05/01/2011 1:37:29 PM PDT by lacrew (Mr. Soetoro, we regret to inform you that your race card is over the credit limit.)
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To: Uncle Meat
That’s why the flush method is recommended so much.

I had this done by my independent mechanic to my 1996 Lincoln TC tranny. At about 75,000 miles it had developed a "stuck" shift - shifting with a clunk. I was reluctant to take it to a transmission specialist without at least trying the spin flush. After the flush, we added some super lube for transmissions (can't remember the name).

Lo and behold, the clunk disappeared and at 115,000 miles the tranny still shifts like a new one.

75 posted on 05/01/2011 1:41:03 PM PDT by Ole Okie (++++)
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To: lacrew

Never said my Tacoma was spec’d in pints...

So your facetious and purposely misrepresentation-driven point was?

=8-)

Or are you just dense?


76 posted on 05/01/2011 1:43:14 PM PDT by =8 mrrabbit 8=
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To: =8 mrrabbit 8=

My point is that your unwarranted correction of my use of ‘quarts’ is ridiculous.

You are wrong, and you now know it...yet you carry on in attack mode instead of offering an apology.

“Or are you just dense?” ...right back at ya.

I’m sure we’re boring everybody else on this thread...but good grief, give it up. Next time you make a snarky correction, do your research first.


77 posted on 05/01/2011 2:07:50 PM PDT by lacrew (Mr. Soetoro, we regret to inform you that your race card is over the credit limit.)
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To: lacrew

Follow your own advice...

=8-)


78 posted on 05/01/2011 2:11:23 PM PDT by =8 mrrabbit 8=
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To: 4yearlurker

I knew a guy who drained his engine oil and to clean his engine extra clean, he fill up it the with diesel fuel. He ran it for 5 minutes to dissolve all the sludge, then drained it and filled it up with oil. It ran after that. Never knew what eventually happened?


79 posted on 05/01/2011 2:45:56 PM PDT by rawhide
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To: Signalman

I remember reading where a tool partsman (like snap-On) went by a Jiffy Lube type shop once, and he found the shop guy out back. He asked the shop guy what he was doing? The guy said he was being paid to change the auto transmission fluid and was just killing time, until it appeared to the customer the job was done. He never changed the fluid. how was the customer ever to know?


80 posted on 05/01/2011 2:50:37 PM PDT by rawhide
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To: Dick Bachert
I run the recommended dose of Sea Foam through the engine on the Toyota for 30 minutes before hitting the dealer for the oil change.

Dealership, or stealerships as we call them, are some of the biggest crooks in business, up there with the corrupt politicians. That is why I never buy new vehicles nor take any of my vehicles to a stealership.

81 posted on 05/01/2011 3:24:29 PM PDT by dragnet2 (Diversion and evasion are tools of deceit)
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To: IYAS9YAS
No reason to leave the drain plug out for two hours. It's sufficient to do it until the oils stream turns from solid to drips.

No reason? Really?

Two simple yes or no questions for you:

1#. Do you think dirty oil and metallic particles are not remaining and clinging to engine parts after you quickly screw the drain plug back in?

Yes or no?

#2. Allowing engine oil to drain thoroughly does not help eliminate a good percentage of dirty oil and metallic particles?

Yes or no?

82 posted on 05/01/2011 4:11:29 PM PDT by dragnet2 (Diversion and evasion are tools of deceit)
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To: Signalman

“Chrysler senior manager of automatic transmission engineering”

Funny, Chrysler’s manual says to change the fluid and filter and that is a required item to maintain the warrantee.

It is not hard to change the transmission fluid. This article makes it sound like voo-doo.


83 posted on 05/01/2011 4:33:43 PM PDT by CodeToad (Islam needs to be banned in the US and treated as a criminal enterprise.)
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To: dragnet2
1#. Do you think dirty oil and metallic particles are not remaining and clinging to engine parts after you quickly screw the drain plug back in?

Yes or no?

Never had a problem with it. I didn't say quickly, I said wait until you no longer have a stream of oil, and that it drips. Usually about a drip every 15-20 seconds. That all depends on the oil temperature and recent use. That's also why I said to do it on an engine that has not been recently run.

The best way I've found is to drain it after it's sat, but still warm - an hour or so after driving, or even overnight in warm weather. There are spots in your engine that will never gravity drain completely - tops of rocker arms, little valleys, etc..., so it's overkill, you're still going to mix old with new.

A good filter and quality oil will do you better than wasting two hours of your time. Between my dad and me, we have over 80 years combined (50 for him and 30 for me) of anecdotal evidence that this works. Never lost an engine due to oil problems.

#2. Allowing engine oil to drain thoroughly does not help eliminate a good percentage of dirty oil and metallic particles?

Yes or no?

See #1.

84 posted on 05/01/2011 4:45:47 PM PDT by IYAS9YAS (Rose, there's a Messerschmit in the kitchen. Clean it up, will ya?)
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To: TheOldLady

What a wonderful Einstein quote!
(PS-I donated the first day of the FReepathon)


85 posted on 05/01/2011 4:47:03 PM PDT by TheConservativeParty (PALIN 45 The cure for "meet the new boss, same as the old boss.")
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To: IYAS9YAS

I knew you wouldn’t answer.

I asked you 2 direct simple questioning, and you compltely evaded both.

See my tag line.


86 posted on 05/01/2011 4:48:39 PM PDT by dragnet2 (Diversion and evasion are tools of deceit)
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To: IYAS9YAS
You stated NO reason...

No reason to leave the drain plug out for two hours

I asked you this:

1#. Do you think dirty oil and metallic particles are not remaining and clinging to engine parts after you quickly screw the drain plug back in?

Yes or no?

#2. Allowing engine oil to drain thoroughly does not help eliminate a good percentage of dirty oil and metallic particles?

Yes or no?

I know why you evaded the questions, because you were wrong, and you couldn't admit it and instead danced around and evaded the 2 questions.

That's pretty dang pathetic.

87 posted on 05/01/2011 4:56:10 PM PDT by dragnet2 (Diversion and evasion are tools of deceit)
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To: toomanylaws

The world has been in chaos since Eve got Adam kicked out of the garden of Eden. If you can avoid one less headache I say read the post on transmission fluid. By the way do you know who the first carpenter was?


88 posted on 05/01/2011 4:56:10 PM PDT by Sawdring
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To: sopwith
I warn may customers that if there car has never had a trans fluid change and have over a 100k there taking a risk.

You anywhere near Albuquerque? ;-)

My rule of thumb is to never change the fluid if I wasn't the original owner of the car. Yes, filters and add new, where necessary, but never a total pressure flush. I learned from someone else's issue. That pressure flush, combined with the detergents in the new fluid, caused some gunk that was previously causing no harm, to break free and clog some important passages, and thus transmission failure.

89 posted on 05/01/2011 4:58:13 PM PDT by IYAS9YAS (Rose, there's a Messerschmit in the kitchen. Clean it up, will ya?)
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To: Safetgiver

THANK YOU!! I could have sworn the article was about transmissions and transmission fluid, not oil changes! It’s hard to sift through the posts that are correctly speaking to the article.


90 posted on 05/01/2011 5:23:37 PM PDT by My hearts in London - Everett (You will try to nudge commies toward the truth, while they try to nudge you toward the cattle cars.)
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To: dragnet2
1#. Do you think dirty oil and metallic particles are not remaining and clinging to engine parts after you quickly screw the drain plug back in?

Leading question, and putting words into my mouth. I never said I quickly put the drain plug in. Direct answer? Yes, simply waiting for the majority of the oil to drain and quickly screwing the drain plug in will leave crap in your engine. I said your method was not necessary, and used my own experience over 30 years of my life, and 50 of my father's. We've never had an engine fail due to oil problems.

#2. Allowing engine oil to drain thoroughly does not help eliminate a good percentage of dirty oil and metallic particles?

Yes, draining thoroughly works.

You stated NO reason...

I certainly did. It was my experience. Which is what you stated as your reason.

I meant no malice, and apologize for calling your method unnecessary, as after I re-read what I posted, I realized that it would tick me off if it were done to me.

91 posted on 05/01/2011 5:23:59 PM PDT by IYAS9YAS (Rose, there's a Messerschmit in the kitchen. Clean it up, will ya?)
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To: IYAS9YAS
Let me make the question *really* easy.

IYAS9YAS lets his engine oil drain for 4 minutes or so. I allow mine to drain for 2+ hours. Which one use has eliminated a better percentage of dirty oil and metallic particles from their engine?

lol...

92 posted on 05/01/2011 5:35:32 PM PDT by dragnet2 (Diversion and evasion are tools of deceit)
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To: dragnet2
IYAS9YAS lets his engine oil drain for 4 minutes or so. I allow mine to drain for 2+ hours. Which one use has eliminated a better percentage of dirty oil and metallic particles from their engine?

Actually, on warm oil (not hot), it takes about 25-30 minutes. Either way, unless we both tear the engines down, take them to the shop, have them boiled clean, and then put them back together, we're both leaving used oil and crud in the engine.

93 posted on 05/01/2011 5:52:17 PM PDT by IYAS9YAS (Rose, there's a Messerschmit in the kitchen. Clean it up, will ya?)
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To: IYAS9YAS
IYAS9YAS lets his engine oil drain for 4 minutes or so. I allow mine to drain for 2+ hours. Which one us has eliminated a better percentage of dirty oil and metallic particles from their engine?

Wow...You again evaded the question yet again... lol

Thanks for the laughs.

94 posted on 05/01/2011 6:23:19 PM PDT by dragnet2 (Diversion and evasion are tools of deceit)
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To: IYAS9YAS
IYAS9YAS lets his engine oil drain for 4 minutes or so. I allow mine to drain for 2+ hours. Which one us has eliminated a better percentage of dirty oil and metallic particles from their engine?

Wow...You again evaded the question yet again... lol

Thanks for the laughs.

95 posted on 05/01/2011 6:23:47 PM PDT by dragnet2 (Diversion and evasion are tools of deceit)
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To: TheConservativeParty

Thank you so much for your donation and your support of Free Republic. It is greatly appreciated.

Glad you liked the quote, too. :-)


96 posted on 05/01/2011 6:24:59 PM PDT by TheOldLady
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This exchange was so funny, it posted itself twice..

:o

97 posted on 05/01/2011 6:25:00 PM PDT by dragnet2 (Diversion and evasion are tools of deceit)
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To: TheOldLady

I added that quote to my favorite quotes journal. I’m always on the lookout for a gem like that!


98 posted on 05/01/2011 7:27:39 PM PDT by TheConservativeParty (PALIN 45 The cure for "meet the new boss, same as the old boss.")
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To: TheConservativeParty
How nice.

http://www.favoritequotes.org/

99 posted on 05/01/2011 7:50:11 PM PDT by TheOldLady
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To: dragnet2
Wow...You again evaded the question yet again... lol

Again, you used a leading question, and put words in I did not use. Show me where I said that my oil drained for 4 minutes or so.

I stated my process took 25-30 minutes. So, certainly, you drain yours for 2 hours, and I drain my for 1/2 hour, there will likely be more drained from your engine. How much? Really, it's negligible. You figure eventually those drops will peter out to one a minute, then so on, so really, how much more are you draining? I'll bet it wouldn't fill a tablespoon. There's likely more than that sitting in those other spots in your engine that don't drain with gravity.

On top of that, many oil drain plugs do not sit directly on the bottom of the pan at exactly the lowest point, and those that don't can leave anywhere up to 1/4 inch of oil in your pan. Do you take your pan off every time and clean it out, too?

So, I answered your question again. You still keep coming at me like I slapped your face. I already apologized for that, but in your zeal to get me back, you likely didn't read that.

100 posted on 05/01/2011 8:13:09 PM PDT by IYAS9YAS (Rose, there's a Messerschmit in the kitchen. Clean it up, will ya?)
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