Posted on 06/17/2011 4:41:00 PM PDT by MileHi
More about M1 food
The pressure at the gas port is the most important thing.
The pressure at the gas port is the most important thing.
SA says OK and yet so many are adamant. Is the difference the WWII rifles vs later ones like my ‘03 rifle?
I was just thinking of a trade I made in 1966 which makes one realize just how much ammo has gone up. It must have increased much faster than guns.
I traded a dealer (who was a coon hunter and really wanted my Colt) a Colt Challenger for an 03A3 Springfield and 1000 rounds of Lake City Match.
The Challenger was basically a Woodsman with plastic grips. It was a nice pistol but that ammo alone would probably be worth $500 now.
Mines a very early 5 digit National Match model that I've glass bedded in a fine tiger birch stock and topped with a 2nd Gen SA Rangefinding scope. It shoots way, way better than I ever will.
This Garrand was a gift, and a damn fine unused one at that. So I don't want to break it.
You have some darned nice friends. That weapon was responsible for the demise of tens of thousands of the enemies of freedom and liberty. It's a damn same they ended up winning from within, ain't it?
I'd keep that thing fed the proper fodder or as close to it as you can get. You may need to use it for one or two of those other items on your bucket list some day.
What if one had a quantity of black tips that weren't 'pulls'?
Thanks!
This is making the rounds:
Dear Mr. Rawles,
I enjoyed R.W.L.’s recent post, “Prioritizing My Prepping”, and noted the choice of the venerable M1 Garand as the MBR of choice. Though the M1 is a terrific choice for this role (”the finest battle implement ever devised” per Gen. Patton), those new to the rifle should keep a couple of critical things in mind when deciding to acquire their very useful piece of history. Standardization of ammo throughout one’s battery can be a beneficial goal, but be aware that all .30-06 is not equal when it comes to the Garand. The M1’s gas system is designed specifically for the pressures generated by the military M2 ball round, and can be damaged or destroyed by higher pressures generated by many commonly-available hunting loads. I’ve never seen it, but have read that in severe cases this problem can lead to the injury or death of the shooter. Of course, though .30-06 ammo is ubiquitous, the available M2 ball will eventually disappear, as no major modern armies are using it. Federal makes a round to M2 Ball spec under the American Eagle label, but it hovers around $1.00 per round.
The answer is to purchase an “adjustable gas plug” for each of your M1 rifles. Several are available - I’m familiar with the “Schuster DCM Adjustable Gas Plug”, which can be had from any major shooting outfit for around $35. By adjusting this plug you can allow over-pressure to escape before impinging on the Operating [”Op”] Rod, the face of which doubles as the gas piston. You must waste a few rounds to make this adjustment, but it is well worth it when shooting non-M2 ammo! For the record, though very similar to the Garand, the M14 (M1A in civilian form), in 7.62 NATO, is much more tolerant of this problem because of the free-floating gas piston inherent in the design.
Also, if you plan to use the M1 Garand indefinitely, make sure to acquire plenty of en bloc clips. Without them it is a rather heavy single-shot rifle (as is true for any semi-auto rifle without a magazine as well. I’ve just found that it’s easier to lose clips than magazines!). I would also recommend purchasing one or two of the specially-designed 5 round clips for legal hunting during “normal” times. They are available at the big shooting supply outfits.
A final note: many “spare parts” lists can be found for the M1, with all the usual suspects: firing pin, extractor, ejector, etc. The one part that I’ve had to replace most often in CMP Garands is the clip ejector spring. They’re cheap, so it wouldn’t hurt to get one. A clip stuck in the receiver considerably slows the re-load process. And besides, you don’t get to hear that famous “ping”!
Thank you for all you do. I apologize for boring the millions of experienced M1 Garand lovers out there. - S.H. in Georgia
JWR Replies: That is all good advice. My only proviso would be that rather than try to tune a Garand gas system for different bullet weights, I recommend just sticking to M2 Ball or duplication loads, thereof. Granted, you can fiddle with an adjustable gas system and get a Garand to work with lower or higher grain bullet weights. But with original operating rods now worth $130 to $220, why put yours at risk? It doesn’t take much to to bend an op rod, and once it is bent, it useless and probably beyond repair. (A “slightly bent” op rod is like a young lady being “a little bit pregnant.”) A bent op rod represents an expensive mistake if it happens in present day circumstances. But even worse, it means being without a functioning rifle if it happens after the Schumer Hits The Fan. My advice: Don’t risk it.
That seems to be the point.
bookmark.
I had some very good deals in retrospect, and still have them. Haven’t seen a “good deal” in 15 or so years.
Wish I had an 03A3, but I do have a very nice Swede 38 I got for $85 some years ago. Bank vaults are not better made.
Nothing over 168 grain and 150 was toyed around with in vintage days.
Your rifle will be fine.
Now if you had a sweet New M1A Springfield you could shoot whatever you want.
I ran 4,000 round of So. Africa, Argentine, Nato, etc and even those stell cassing Russian stuff before I cleaned it.
No problemo and WILL be the gun I grab in SHTF.
Yeah Baby!
I love my M1A!
I’ve got a very early model, with all TRW parts, factory stamped with “NM” on the barrel and sights. I’m wondering if your information is still applicable. Do you have any idea?
Sure the hell is. Lets don't allow a period on that, eh?
Don’t know.
Mine is circa 2008 and I’ve seen lots of crazy claims about my baby.
Tested em.
Dropped in water, fired fine.
Dropped in Sand, no problemo.
Dropped in Mud, all okay. (that was what caused me to clean it and I had wanted to clean it anyway. I clean my guns each time I use them but wanted to test it out for reliability.)
Yes those Swedish Mausers are fine. I once had my neighbor who was a dealer, order six of them. I was surprised that one, I think it was stamped 1897, was made in Oberndorf and had the Mauser banner. Until then I didn’t know any were made outside Sweden.
For some reason the Swedish Mausers shoot more accurately than any other of the old rifles.
The most beautifully made rifle I have ever owned was a 1909 Argentine Mauser made by DWM. I bought it unfired with the original test target. Walter Craig in Selma, Al. got in a bunch of them. When it arrived both the dealer and I were amazed by the quality.
The issue of heavier bullets seems a given. However 150gr loads are common and cheaper than the Greek surplus and factory tailored loads. SA said 150 loads are OK for my 2003 vintage, I did not ask about WWII era rifles. I have a Schuster plug and need to try it. Still, common ammo that will work would be a good thing. The answer may well be the plug with marks for commercial and surplus ammo. Only need time (and ammo) to experiment. Clips are worth collecting and I am.
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