Skip to comments.How do you mount a scope on a rifle?
Posted on 07/14/2011 3:15:57 PM PDT by Jerrybob
I know this probably sounds really stupid, but I want to be sure -- I've googled "how to mount a scope" and get all sorts of dandy directions, but -- I assume you mount the right/left adjustment on the top and the up/down adjustment on the side.....
Yes, that’s the way it’s done.
First, find some scope mounts for your model rifle that will fit the scope you want. Some rifles are predrilled for the screws for the mount or the receiver is milled for a particular scope.
Look online at Brownells.com or at Midwayusa.com
Generally, height adjustment resides on the top, and windage (left, right) reside on the side.
How are you planning to zero it? You could get a head start by utilizing a process called bore sighting. You can purchase a relatively in-expensive little device that helps you with this. Google the above description.
Elevation on top, azimuth on the side, normally. But if you like the other way it’s up to you. Might surprise someone who borrows the rifle.
I knew a guy who did it at 45 deg, so the crosshair looked like an X. Don’t know why, but he said it worked for him, though to move the impact point one inch up took a couple clicks on EACH axis.
The elevation dial is on top up-down.
The windage dial is on the side.R/L.
Watch the video it may help.
All I know is that if you mount it backwards, the deer will look reeeaaaalllly far, far away.
There are several varieties of scope mount bases and rings including scope tube diameters and ring heights.
If you have a bolt action rifle consider bolt handle swing.
Your rifle manufacturer may have some information at their website.
Nope, up, down adjusments on top of rifle, left/right on the side. If you have any doubt about your ability to mount a scope take it to a gunsmith(you should be able to find one in your area by using google or some other search engine). They don’t charge much for this service and you will be assured it is done correctly.
Have the program create a graph or table, and you will see the first crossing of the bullet path at a near range, around 20-50 yards depending on bullet velocity, going above the sight line, and then drop back to the desired range.
Simply put a reflective target like white paper or a laser target at the close range, and bring the laser spot to center up/down, left/right. You will be on the paper at the far range when you actually shoot.
Typically, the adjusting is done by screws that move the reticule. The screw on the top lifts and lowers it, and the screw on the side shifts it left and right. Do you need to take a gun safety course?
Remember to really tighten those mounting screws.
Never be afraid to ask the experts. They are business people and will let you know when advice is free and when they will start charging, as they should.
Along with what NP said, if you have a Mauser type flag safety, make sure it clears the tube also. (I already made that mistake on my Winchester 54)
Not trying to be a d!ck but this question as asked is just silly.
Bore sighter is not needed. I take the bolt out of my gun and place the gun on benchrest an adjust so I can see a target centered though the bore of the gun. I then adjust the scope to be centered on the target. I usually do it at 50 yds.
Keep in mind that you still have to make final adjustment by shooting as bore sighting will only get you close.
Most of my hunting guns are zeroed at 200 yds. For most high-power rifles this will mean that the gun will shoot about 1 1/2 to 2 inches high at 100 yds and about the same low at 250 yds which is close enough for big game hunting so you don’t have to worry about hold over out to 250 yds.
A door gunner giving advice on sighting in a scope? Now that’s hoot, lol, :) Actually, I’ll give you due, your’s is one of the best postings on this thread. I would only add one little item. When mounting a scope, assuming the shoulder stock is the correct length, be “sure” that you have the rear lens about two inches away from your sighting eye. Keep in mind that when shooting at game, one tends to pull the rifle in tighter than when shooting on a range. Aw heck, they’ll figure it out after they get bit a couple of times. No pain no gain :)
Point the big end towards the front
LOL... post of the day.
That said, my eyes can no longer do that sort of thing, so I have entered the world of optics.
Yeah, tracers are cheating too, but mastering hitting something while there is a lot of relative motion is not child's play....... ;-)
One of the biggies is intended use. For example, if you have an AK or an AR carbine, then a red dot quick reaction type sight is ideal for ranges of 150 to 250 yards. If you have a .308 rifle that can reach out beyond 250 yards, then a good scope and rings is a the idea. Send me a PM.
For someone that wasn't trying you sure did a good job.
It’s like this...just because you can change your oil, doesn’t mean you’re ready to do brakes.
a. Ducttape your 100x zoom digital camera on the barrel
b. Line up a target at 1000 yards
c. Adjust camera until bullet holes are in center of camera screen
Take it to a competent gunsmith in your area.
“Take it to a competent gunsmith in your area.”
That is probably good advice, but for me part of the fun of the sport is doing my own gun maintenance. Mounting and sighting in a scope is one of the easier things to do if you have some mechanical ability. The first time it might be best to get some help from someone that has experience.
Oops. Too late.
A meaningful consensus exists that mounting the scope parallel to the barrel is best.
Usenet used to be so great. I relied on it more than the web. Now, most of us can't get it through our ISPs and I doubt many would want it, so many spammers have so thoroughly ruined it. Too bad. If there is one thing I'd like to be able to do someday, it'd be to download all the great FAQs from the usenet of old, especially the *.gun.* FAQs.