Skip to comments.Rug Doctor?? Opinions? Results? Recommendations?
Posted on 02/17/2012 11:58:52 PM PST by djf
OK I broke down and rented a Rug Doctor. My carpet is a little under two years old and not in bad shape except I have a pellet stove and no matter what you do, it puts out a fine gray ash that dulls everything.
So far, the results seem good, it will never look like new again, but looks a whole lot better than before. Problem being is that it uses a TON of water and I can hardly get by doing 75 sq ft or so without refill.
Opinions? Hints? Anybody know the great Rug Doctor secrets held by only the ancients and Lazamataz?
Some carpet cleaners have multiple settings for the water flow. I don’t have any idea what machine/model you are using, but I know that I have had that issue in the past. If there’s an instruction book, it might help.
And here’s a link to the site with a tutorial and a guide of sorts, maybe it can help:
With all these ladies getting Brazilians these days, I’m surprised there’s hardly much need for a Rug Doctor.
The machine says it takes 11 amps, wonder if that’s enuff?
I’ve used them...be prepared to use everything a lot. You might consider using other similar cheaper carpet cleaner liquid. Although the rug doctor spot remover seems to work pretty good. You will be going back and forth refilling and mixing A LOT.
Dunno... I prefer shag myself... ‘70s style. Disco rug. Can ya dig it ?
....AND, it takes time,meaning that lifting technique they suggest...... well takes it’s toll on your back. They work, but you have to work slowly
I have 1983 shag right now, I should have changed it a few years ago when I first moved in and business was better.
What seems to be the best is one wash followed by two rinses. Of course I will never know for sure until it is totally dry and has been vacuumed once or twice.
Actually, I was happy with the balance. Doesn’t bother my back so much as the “Work” button has to be kept continually pressed for it to run...
And I been cheating a bit, adding about 2 tsp. TSP per gallon... (the real stuff, not the fake TSP!!)
That’s a really good idea. Will have to do that the next time I deploy mine.
I thought you were looking for a good Gynecologist.
The attachments that they try to rent to you for an extra charge are not very good. I mean the ones that are supposed to do furniture and stairs. Save the three bucks. Don't rent them.
Buy carpet cleaning fluid at Wal-Mart or suchlike. The Rug Doctor fluid is too expensive. You don't need to use much -- maybe even less soap-to-water than they recommend, and they often recommend just a couple of ounces of cleaner to a gallon of water. Mix the cleanser with a bucket of the hottest water you can run from the tap and pour it into the Rug Doctor asap. I have a bucket that I think is 22 quarts and it fills the regular size Rug Doctor perfectly. (There is a larger-size wide Rug Doctor for large rooms.) Bissell O2 and Bissell OxyGen2 are pretty good cleansers.
If you have some major stains or very dirty high-traffic areas of the carpet, pre-treat them before you use Rug Doctor. Folex brand Instant Carpet Spot Remover is good. Get a stiff scrub brush and use a circular motion. If you have pet stains buy one of the special pet stain carpet products - they actually work remarkably well.
You can only use Rug Doctor to clean carpeted stairs if you're very strong and in good shape. You'll have to hold up the machine yourself while it aspirates out the dirt and water. You can try just putting in a little bit of the water to lower the weight, but it won't make that much difference. As I said above, the attachments for stairs and furniture are pretty much useless.
Vacuum thoroughly before you start. Vacuum all the carpets/rugs a couple of times. Clean the Rug Doctor filter regularly -- maybe every two or three times you fill Rug Doctor with soap and water. When you start, try to get the hang of using Rug Doctor -- you squirt the soap/water mixture on generously, then you vacuum it out thoroughly so that the carpet is only left slightly damp. This the beauty of Rug Doctor actually -- its powerful suction removes dirt effectively and leaves the carpet/rug almost dry. Some of the other posters talked about rinses. I never do that. Pre-treat the worst areas, use hot water with just barely enough soap, vacuum the dirty water out of there thoroughly, and you'll be walking on a clean rug in just a couple of hours.
Where I live Safeway and some other supermarket/big-box stores rent Rug Doctor, but I usually rent it from a local dry cleaner that closes on Sunday. I rent the machine Saturday night and don't have to return it until Monday morning.
Now that you’ve begun to use the Rug Doctor it’s probably too late for this, but it’s always a good idea to dry vacuum the carpet as well as you can before you start shampooing it. You can save money if you rented by the hour by vacuuming first, and also by pretreating bad stains with a spray type pretreatment and a brush. Turn your water heater to maximum temperature so you will have the hottest water available (turn it back when finished). Be sure your water softener has freshly regenerated if you use one. Then go get the Rug Doctor and shampoo away.
Add water to it and you make acid. Cut the PH before you use the rug Dr.
Add water to what and make acid? Wood ash is a source of alkali if anything. The carbonized content is difficult to completely get out of any rug as it is not soluble, though mechanical flushing can get some of it.
Oh, it’s a good idea that when the rug has dried after shampooing, apply a Scotchgard type spray.
Sick, sick, sick...LOL
I’ve been making sure that any area I use it on has already been vacuumed multiple times.
Wood ash is mostly mineral oxides, which, when mixed with water, make alkali solutions.
That’s how they make soap.
When she gets up, I can ask her what she uses, if you like.
Thanks! I’m all ears, that’s why I asked the question for opinions and recommendations.
Of course when I’m done, I probably won’t have to do it again for a year or so. I have no pets or kids. But it’s always good to know stuff!
As an aside, I do not think man has yet invented something to take the smell of a 14 month old out of the carpet... friend of mine drove me somewhere and he had a kid - I swear, if that car was mine, I would have sent it to the crusher and paid them to do away with it!
Be prepared to leave your home overnight if using one. Use as much water as necessary, use very good cleaner, also make sure you have a fan to help dry the carpet.
The get out of dodge overnight so you don’t step on it and dirty it back up.
Thing is pellet stove continuously draws in outside air and heats it, so it gets pretty dry in my place. Sometimes I even put a pot of water on it to boost the humidity a bit.
Carpet will be totally dry by mid-morning.
If he changes his name from Mr. Wilhelm to “Tanya” ...
Look the machine you rent over carefully. I used to rent them out, and know that people would just rent the machine to clean up a flooded basement after a sewage backup. They returned them in less than sanitary condition.
better idea . . .
Pull up all the carpet and put down rugs.
Carpets will never be clean. Just dirt and germ magnets.
On a budget, finish 18” of the floor around the edges of the rooms and roll out your carpets.
You could have them dry cleaned when needed, or just wack ‘em out in the sun on the line in the backyard. Looks real nice too.
The problem is that the Rug Doctor is state of the art carpet cleaning equipment circa 1950. If you must use it, use liquid laundry detergent (NOT CONCENTRATED!) at about half the recommended dosage. If it has been cleaned with a Rug Doctor previously, you might even skip the detergent, just use straight water. (I used to turn off the cleaning solution when cleaning up after the Doctor. Some people use so much detergent that it would foam up a Butler rig two years later.) Dry stroke (don't use the spray) about two or three times for each wet stroke. Put an ounce or two of liquid fabric softener (it is a de-foamer) in the recovery tank. A capful of fabric softener in a quart spray bottle is a good thing if you have spot cleaned with commercial products. Just spray on any foamy spots. If you need to put the furniture back before the carpet is dry, make sure you have some kind of barrier between the furniture legs and the carpet. Metal legs or feet will rust and some furniture stains will bleed into the carpet. We used to use two inch cardboard square for legged furniture and styrofoam blocks for flat pieces. Unstained wood blocks work well, too.
Why rent? You can buy a super Bissell at Wally World for $150.
I'm innocent I tell ya'!
Don’t put carpet down in the first place! My husband is a custom home builder and dirt trails behind him like the Peanuts character. Hardwood floors solve it and we use a wood burning stove at a house we have on the Chesapeake Bay and I know about the ash stuff.
Quickest way to ruin carpet is over wetting and left in cleaning solution that melds to the fibers to attract soil permanently ...in the long run these cost you far more.....and that my friend is what you will get from a rug doctor or portable gopher.
Pull up the carpeting and install hard-surface flooring. You can do it yourself. You can never really get carpeting clean.
I was watching RedEye when I made the Post, so I went with the worst of the two. It's Bill Schultz's fault. I really didn't think anyone would get it, so thanks...
It saddens me that we have a whole new generation that never heard (or felt) shag carpet. Maybe some business person should reintroduce it......just saying.
Donald Trump has the best rug doctor ever, I never see any ash coating.
“Wilhelm? My name is Tanya.”
“Most of the world is carpeted. And, one day, we will do the cleaning.”
As well as Bissell, Hoover is another reputable brand of home carpet shampooer. The one I use looks like an upright vacuum cleaner and has rotating scrub brushes on the bottom of its head. I’ve even seen a church that kept a Hoover of this same kind to shampoo its well trodden aisle carpets, which were worn but clean. The brand name shampoos work OK but are pricey. Stores like Wal-Mart have their own generic shampoos that also work OK. Simple Green also works. Any cleaner that is not overly sudsy and does not leave a lot of residue will work. It’s a good idea to ventilate well with Simple Green as the vapors can be irritating to the eyes and respiratory tract. Household ammonia is powerful too as a spotter or in the machine, but definitely needs lots of ventilation.
I got kind of put off Hoover when the last vacuum cleaner I bought from them had a bunch of plastic knobs that all broke off within a month. They were critical to the operation of the unit. I traded it in at Costco for a Bissel vacuum cleaner as well.
It’s still around but it is called Frazee. Spelling is sounded out as fraza.
I know the predicament you’re in, I’ve got two Panasonic vacuum cleaners and can’t find anyone to push them.
All plastic knobs on my Hoover have remained where they were intended to be, but quality may have gone south in the years since. Mine was US built, though doubtless of Chinese parts.
On Google I found a large carpet dealer named Frazee, and an allusion to it as a type of carpet, but not any page advertising that kind of carpet under that name.
Shag was doubtless intended to be fun. It would be a grand hassle to shampoo and vacuum compared to more conservative carpets.
Speaking of vacuuming, the home vacuum cleaner didn’t come into vogue until the early 1900s. Before that, you had to have a truck mounted unit come similar to the ones that do furnace duct cleaning today. They could make quite a racket as they were gasoline engine powered. With the home vacuum cleaner, carpet was viewed as more practical in homes.
It would help had I spelled it correctly ...oops meant look up images for Frieze carpeting. Comes in different lengths.
That’s for sure.
Disclaimer: Opinions posted on Free Republic are those of the individual posters and do not necessarily represent the opinion of Free Republic or its management. All materials posted herein are protected by copyright law and the exemption for fair use of copyrighted works.