Posted on 08/15/2012 10:47:01 AM PDT by DariusBane
Vanity:
My gas can spout broke. You all know the one I am talking about. The old one. The one that works. Has a vent on the back and an unimpeded spout. The one I have been using carefully and preserving. Preserving because it WORKS. It does exactly what it is supposed to do. I fill it up with gas and transfer said gas to wherever I want it.
The godless communist Statist freaks. Those gubment cheese swilling unelected shiite life long employees have taken my gas can and ruined it. So these numb skulls, shiite brains who can ruin a gas can get to control my doctor? Really?
Tar and feather all of them.
Thank God I found a black market on Ebay for gas cans and spouts. I am sick of dumb mudder truckers screwing stuff up. The idiots who designed and mandated them have never had to use a gas can!
Good fix!
I don’t understand why fuel pumps are now located in the gas tank.
I replaced a faulty fuel pump some years ago on an old Nissan Sentra for $19. The pump was attached to the engine block by two bolts. Simply disconect the fuel lines (in and out) and the two bolts and it was off. Re-installation took a few minutes.
My brother had his fuel pump fail on his Ford truck and it cost almost $1000 since the fuel tank had to be removed to replace the pump.
To use a common funnel you have to heft and hold the heavy gas can while it’s pouring, and this gave me an idea.
Why not combine a hand truck and a step ladder, with a bicycle chain ratchet to lift the foot of the truck with a heavy container three or four feet high up the ladder, which is more stable with heavy loads higher up.
It would be great for things like raising gas cans to fill your tank, lifting 5 gallon water bottles, lifting heavy packages to put on shelves, and things like that.
How about on some trucks where the water pump is turned by the timing chain, $1000 to $1500 to replace a simple water pump.
How about where the front end knuckle joints no longer have grease zerts causing premature failure, $1000 to put in new knuckle joints.
Ain't progress grand.
I agree! My neice has a Chrysler PT cruiser and it is due for a timing belt. The cost is $1200 and most mechanics won’t even take the job.
Replacing the timing belt requires the removal of the front bumper and the aircondition compressor, among other things.
That’s real progress.
I remember removing and replacing a VW bug’s engine using a skateboard! Things were a lot easier then.
Generally keeping my older stuff until parts aren't available any longer.
One of my hobbies is to rebuild/refurbish antique outboards like the Elto Pal and Handitwin.
My family has been boating for over 50 years and we did all of our own work (except the haul out and paint). I maintained Chrysler 440’s and Crusader 350’s (Chevy).
The older outboards (1967 40 hp Evinrude)were so simple to work on. Now the engines are outragous in cost as well as complexity.
We were really into mini-ikes and go-karts. We did some club racing, but mostly just went to the tracks for fun.
My brother and I built a 1929 Model A from the ground up. We had a 4 speed (Saginaw) in it. We made the dash board, gas tank, clutch linkage, grill, and completely boxed the frame. We rebuilt a 327 small block and the car really moved. We got the idea years ago from American Grafitti (John Milner’s car).
My crazy brother then built an airplane (Vans RV-6) that took 5 years, but cruised at over 200. He has since sold it due to the fuel costs.
Those were good times.
I got one of the 1.5 gallon size for my mower about 30 years ago. Still works as good today as the day I got it. The only can built better is the good old "jerry cans" we had in the Army.
We built a small hydroplane from plans (Glen-L Marine) and put two pressure jet engines on it (built from plans from Gleuroff).
The engines ran on liquid propane. We burned the dock in Marina Del Rey (California) testing it out. It really never worked well, but the sound was unbelievable!
We learned how to heliarc and run a milling machine as well as a lathe. Glad I still have all of my fingers!
Good times.
Electronic fuel injectors take about 50psi where carburetors are about 4 to 6 psi.
Injectors need a pump that can pump up the pressure before the engine is cranked over, they don’t have a reservoir like a carburetor bowl.
The pump to do this is good at pumping but not so good at sucking. So it needs to be right at the source.
One good tip is don’t let your fuel run low in HOT weather, hot fuel is hard on electric fuel pumps.
http://www.freerepublic.com/focus/f-news/2912907/posts
blitz gas cans were totally POS. unusable for anything.
http://www.blitzusa.com/
There are a number of in-ling fuel injection pumps (high pressure) from people like Mallory that do not need a transfer pump (low pressure). This helps in conversions to EFI, especially in boats where the fuel tanks are inaccessable.
But, if a low pressure pump is needed, an electric one can be used that does not need to be in the tank.
I may be wrong, but I thought most fuel injected cars have two pumps - one low pressure pump in the tank and the high pressure located on the engine as part of the throtle body.
Both pumps are relatively inexpensive compared to the high labor cost to remove and replace the fuel tank.
Just recieved my Eagle U2.
Review: pretty stout can. A little awkward to strap down due to it’s shape. But not bad. It would be nice if it were possible to “lock back” the handle in the open position, as one must hold the spring loaded handle back to open the valve.
Nice design other than that. I imagine that the EPA SS will not allow a lock back design however. Mudder Trucker regulators have never worked a day with their hands, and don’t need fuel cans anyway.
One further complaint:
You cannot lock back the spring loaded fill aperture. You have to hold the can with one hand to keep it from sliding around. With another hand you hold the fill nozzle. With your third hand you hold open the spring loaded cap.
So again, the safety idiots mandate something that works, but does not quite work right.
No, there’s typically no high pressure pump on the engine.
The EFI system typically uses around 50 psi that is generated by the in-tank pump.
You may be confusing with diesels which now typically have a 20,000+ (!!!) psi pump on the engine.
Actually, I looked up the diagram for a gas fuel injection system (Google) and all images showed a low pressure (transfer) pump in the fuel tank and a high pressure pump outside of the tank.
I was a marine mechanic and when we replaced carbureted engines (gas) with fuel injected engines we did not have to install any pumps in the fuel tanks. The engines are GM products (Crusader or Mercruiser). We just connected the existing fuel line to the engines.
Freepmail me the links.
I work on this stuff all the time and am confused by your description.
Here is a typical one
http://www.icarumba.com/includes/content/resourcecenter/encyclopedia/ch15/15Fig22.html
Thanks for the feedback. Is the can at least sturdy and seemingly well built?
It is a stout sturdy can. The fill nozzle, is made of flexible metal ribbing. It seems to be rugged. The springs and assembly of the fill cap is heavy duty.
I would give the can my full blessing if you could lock the fill cap in the “open” position, and lock the dispensing valve open. Apparently the gubment is convinced that Joe Bag O Donuts will forget to close the apertures after using them. Hence the inability to lock them open. So three hands are required to use it.
I jammed a screw driver handle into the fill cap to prop it open. It works that way but that’s a really dumb way to run a railroad.
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