Posted on 09/22/2012 4:58:41 PM PDT by InvisibleChurch
The battery in my wife's crv is losing its pep, it seems. It takes just a moment longer for the engine to crank over. The boys at Honda have been on me to change it for about a year now. It seems easy enough to switch a battery knowing I have to reset the clock and radio but would there be any other electronic issues involved?
If you have an anti-theft radio, it will lock up and you’ll need to reset the code.
The only “problem” is it won’t pass inspection until you drive it a few hundred miles.
i'll change it outside the local democrat headquarters then
A few months ago I had the Honda place put a new barrery in my 2007 CRV — the only real work I’ve ever had to do on it except oil changes and a headlight bulb. No complications like you mention.
Battery, that is. Darn ipad.
Keep the battery and go get a real car.
I read a thread like this and say to self: “Buy a “62 Impala, “65 Falcon.....any Studebaker.....something the Iranian nuke wont fry, and I wont be afraid to change the damn battery.
where does one buy a running Tucker for less than a jabillion dollars?
thanks to all for answers
My uncle is a car mechanic. One day my car was making funny noises and smelling like gas fumes. He stuck his head under the hood and tightened a bolt. That’s all. And he said, “If you had taken this car to an auto repair shop, they would have charged you 300 bucks just to tighten that bolt. Because you don’t know any better.”
Before you pull the battery make sure you have the radio code. I changed my battery on my 2005 CRV and or wouldn’t work without it. Lucky for me it was in the glovebox.
In the “good old days” there were not a lot of electronic controls installed in cars. The shop manuals describe some diagnostic tests as removing one of the battery cables while the engine is running.
Point being, you don’t want to do this with modern cars! People used to brag about how many years they could make a battery last. Well in those days it didn’t much matter to the vehicle when a battery started to go bad, eventually it just wouldn’t start.
The problem today, the battery, in addition to providing starting power, acts as a kind of filter for the electrical system. Sensitive (read: expensive) engine control units, computers really, have low operating voltages and currents. When a battery gets weak - the current drawn by devices goes up. This is just a long winded way of saying that a bad battery can damage other components leading to expensive repairs. It’s hard on the electrical system, which is really only designed to maintain a battery. it’s not wise to cheap out on replacing a battery with moder. cars!
The wind up is, if it’s acting sluggish now, the first cold snap will kill it. Hot weather is generally what does them in, but it doesn’t become apparent till the frosty temps arrive. Regardless of what the kid at the Auto Parts counter sez “Your new battery is already charged”; go ahead and put it on a low ampere charge for 24 hours before installation.
Oh, and be prepared for sticker shock - prices have gone up since 2006!
the first frosty temps.
The computer will reset itself after driving it 5 miles or so. It may run a little funny until it resets (shift points off, a bit sluggish).
I don’t know where you would get one but I’ve seen a thing that you plugged into the cigarette lighter with a attachment for a 9 volt battery. You would plug it into the cigarette lighter with the 9 volt battery and it would give the car enough battery juice to keep your stations on the radio. I don’t know if they work or not but it might be something for you to look into.
I am going to give a piece of advice.
That car is a sitting target for catalytic converter thieves. I don’t have one but my friend does. It sits high to the ground and they can get it in less than 5 minutes. Expensive fix.
At least get under your car and scratch in your license number on it. Probably won’t make much difference but it might.
; )
The clock should be easy.
The radio probably has a code that can be typed into the buttons on the radio face when you have the new battery in. You’ll have a short time to type this, so be ready with the code #.
Outside of retuning your beeber to stune ... I think you about got it.
as long as I don’t need to mess with the k’nuter valve or the wobbler bearing, I should be ok . Thanks.
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