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At Home in Apulia, Wherever You Are
New York Times ^ | FLORENCE FABRICANT | October 11, 2012

Posted on 10/12/2012 3:50:12 PM PDT by nickcarraway

EARLIER this year, when asked what Italian cuisine he’d like to see better represented in New York, Mario Batali said, without hesitation, “the food of Apulia.”

The rustic cooking of the region in the heel of Italy takes a distant back seat to the food of noble Tuscany and lusty Naples, and is represented on few menus in New York. Nicola Marzovilla, who is from Polignano a Mare, a coastal town in Apulia, and owns I Trulli in Manhattan, attributes that to the region’s cuisine being “the ultimate home cooking,” he said. “It’s not easy to do the food in restaurants.”

At the same time, a few items from Apulia, or Puglia in Italian, are showing up, their pedigree unannounced, just about everywhere you turn. Burrata, an irresistibly lush form of mozzarella, has become wildly popular lately and may be the region’s best ambassador to America. Though Naples and some other parts of the Campania region are the source of virtually all the mozzarella imported into the United States, Apulia is the home of that mozzarella sphere that’s distinguished by its filling: creamy shreds of the cheese.

It is said to have been created in the early 20th century, by cheesemakers in Andria, a town north of Bari, who hit on a way to use up the shreds of cheese, called stracciatella, left over from making mozzarella. (And there you have a key to what’s on the table in Apulia: waste nothing. They even pickle and eat tiny hyacinth bulbs.)

At DiPalo Dairy in Little Italy, Lou DiPalo imports burrata from Apulia once a week. But he has also been making his own every day for the past three years. “The burrata I get from Italy is not fresh enough,” he said. “In three days, it’s over.”

(Excerpt) Read more at nytimes.com ...


TOPICS: Food; Local News
KEYWORDS: cookery; food; italy; mozarella

1 posted on 10/12/2012 3:50:19 PM PDT by nickcarraway
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To: nickcarraway

Ahhh, my dad’s dad was from this region...Accadia, Foggia, to be exact. My grandmother (who was Calabrese) even used to cook peas in olive oil for him.


2 posted on 10/12/2012 4:00:42 PM PDT by InspectorGadget
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To: nickcarraway

I’ll need to stop by DiPalo Dairy this weekend...


3 posted on 10/12/2012 4:18:02 PM PDT by oblomov
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To: nickcarraway

Why.....yes.....of course.......sure thing.......I’ve known this all along.....ah-ha.....ummmmmm.......well.......right on the money as I’ve always said.....fit as a fiddle.....that’ll take the starch out of the old spaghetti as daddy used to say....right as rain......excuse me......just passing through.


4 posted on 10/12/2012 6:49:57 PM PDT by blueunicorn6 ("A crack shot and a good dancer")
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