Posted on 11/20/2012 11:59:15 PM PST by onona
You can get a good trianglular shaped file and do it yourself in minutes
I used to take them off and take them in to get sharpened, yes they do a better job but not much, and there is a lot to be said about being back up and running in minutes as opposed to days
I did keep several chains handy that I did take in to be sharpened, but I found after a while it was easier to get out the file and touch them up a bit right then and there while I was using it- dont even remove the chain from the saw
5 minutes and - go
There is also home sharpener tools you can buy- it is cheaper after use it 5 times its paid for iteself
that is a great tip for when the zombie apocolypse comes- have extra chain and files ready to make and sharpen your own
(also some stored gas, i guess)
Anyone know how to make an alcohol that will burn in a gas engine?
Exactly.
You will totally screw up a good chain if you use the wrong size/wrong angle file. Even to the point where it’s junk and can’t be sharpened.
I had to get a new chain for my Mcullouch earlier this year and I spent an extra ten bucks to get the right sized/angled file.
Even though the correct file is the SAME diameter as the one I was previously using, the difference is like night and day, this one goes through and don’t even sweat doing it.
I have seen that alot where a lumberjack spends an hour fiddling with the file and it still aint sharp or cuts in a circle
Watch out for the rattlesnakes, bears and widowmakers along the way
What I meant was a pro should know how to sharpen by hand, maybe they have battery powered sharpeners now that you can pack along. I know chain and bar sets sure are cheep now, compared to back when I was a pup doing forest work. So grind away and maybe the boss wont care about gobbling up chain, or if it takes some worker an hour maybe its cheaper to just let them grind.
I luv this thread , reminds me of the ones on the chainsaw forums LOL , (like an oil thread on a car forum)
Do not burn alcohol or alcohol mixed gas, ethanol, in a chainsaw. You will have a very expensive lesson. Even with a heavier oil mix it will not work out well in the long run.
KTM,
It’s obvious you don’t know jack-$hit about being on a REAL logging job.
“Sharpening a short bar only takes me about 5 minutes..”
I’m talking about REAL logging where we used 48”-60” bars on gutted & tricked-out Stihl 075’s, 090’s or a ‘carted old Mac’. Skip-tooth .404 or 1/2” chain. You probably don’t even know what I’m talking about, do you?
Every real faller I have ever worked with knew how to hand file a chain as good or better than by grinding. Plus, we always took at least 4 extras in with us, depending on how rocky the ground was or what type of timber we were cutting. Old growth Doug Fir can be damn near as hard as Oak while Sugar Pine cuts like butter. No need to hand file at the stump, just switch chains and get back to work. Grind ‘em when you get back to camp.
“battery powered sharpeners” are for homeowners.
“buttercup”?......LOL
Perhaps you’ll be more comfortable back on the so-called logging forums where you might actually impress some little girls into thinking you’re for real.
Oldenuff2no is a pro. Heed his advice, little pup.
LOL ! LOL! LOL !
so sorry I hurt your feelings, OK you are the big bad logger, LOL !
you win ! grind away fruitcake
I use Motul600 50:1
I actually bought my jig from Baileys Logging Supply. I could not find it on their website when I did a search.
Baileys is where I buy most of my tree cutting supplies.
I have had a Stihl 026 for twenty years. I have replaced the bar twice, air filter once. I think my automatic oiler may need to be replaced. It seems to get plugged up easy now.
Never had automatic oiler trouble yet.
Think that is driven off of pulsating crankcase vacuum with a diaphragm in the old Homelites I own.
I always give the engine a little spin up before I start another cut just to make sure I see oil spitting from the bar tip.
What I like about the old Super XL is that it also has a thumb activated manual oiler, good for kicking in extra oil when cutting sappy stuff like pine.
I remember my dad had a Remington chainsaw from the 50’s that had a manual oiler like that. The saw weighed a ton.
I always thought the motor would have been great for a go cart.
My dad replaced it with a Stihl farm boss in the 1980’s. My older brother still owns that saw. It also was heavier than I like for the majority of the trees I cut down(typically 20” dbh or less).
Bailey’s had the little ECHO arborist limbing saws on sale in their last flyer. These are the saws that only weigh about 9#s. They have the ring on them to attach a rope and pull up into a tree AFTER you climb it.
Now if I need to cut a limb, I use my recipricating saw or my pole saw or hand saw.
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