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Help! Ethernet hub

Posted on 04/16/2013 9:03:44 AM PDT by djf

I have an eight port ethernet hub that has unfortunately become separated from it's power supply.

I've googled everything I can see on it to find out what the power rating is, cause I have tons of power supplies, and can rig one up easy IF I know the voltage and +/- setup.

Anybody know any way to figure this out? I have one of the universal power supplies that can deliver 3V, 5V, 6V, 9V, etc but don''t want to blow it up by hooking the voltage up backwards!

Would appreciate any hints and tips!


TOPICS: Computers/Internet
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1 posted on 04/16/2013 9:03:44 AM PDT by djf
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To: djf

Start with 5V - most computer electronics are made for that

if it doesn’t work go up by 2 until it turns on

you should be OK


2 posted on 04/16/2013 9:05:16 AM PDT by Mr. K (There are lies, damned lies, statistics, and democrat talking points.)
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To: djf

If you have the manufacturer and model, you should have no problem finding wattage ratings for the device.


3 posted on 04/16/2013 9:05:37 AM PDT by rarestia (It's time to water the Tree of Liberty.)
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To: djf

Does it have a label on the back?


4 posted on 04/16/2013 9:05:45 AM PDT by glorgau
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To: djf

Check the power supply input plug on the back of the unit. The specs are normally there...e.g., something like “3v” and the polarity will also be shown. Power consumption may not be there, but it’ll be low enough that pretty much any power supply matching the voltage will do.

Not to worry if your replacement supply can supply much more current than needed - the unit will draw only what it needs if the supply voltage is correct.


5 posted on 04/16/2013 9:06:27 AM PDT by Da Coyote
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To: djf

You should be able to get an eight port hub for $5 at the local Salvation Army.


6 posted on 04/16/2013 9:07:21 AM PDT by Dr. Sivana (HRC:"Sometimes she looks like a primary schoolgirl and sometimes a pensioner going shopping,"-NKorea)
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To: djf

A few more hints might be helpful. What hub you are trying to use? How did it become ‘separated’? That sort of thing.


7 posted on 04/16/2013 9:08:01 AM PDT by Wingy
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To: djf

Many of them are 12vdc but if you Google the make and model of the hub, you can probably find out.


8 posted on 04/16/2013 9:08:18 AM PDT by Sender (It's never too late to be who you could have been.)
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To: Mr. K

That’s kinda what I was thinking... the reason it is separated from the power supply is I might have sacrificed it in the past to hook up to something else!

I have two boxes full of various voltages, parity, amp rating... what can I say, I’m like them hoarder people!


9 posted on 04/16/2013 9:08:49 AM PDT by djf (Rich widows: My Bitcoin address is... 1ETDmR4GDjwmc9rUEQnfB1gAnk6WLmd3n6)
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To: djf

Make? Model? Throw me a bone here people.


10 posted on 04/16/2013 9:09:32 AM PDT by Ray76 (Do you reject Obama? And all his works? And all his empty promises?)
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To: djf

I have started taping the gadget it is meant for to the chord so I can easily identify what it was for. I have about 100 of those silly things


11 posted on 04/16/2013 9:15:28 AM PDT by Mr. K (There are lies, damned lies, statistics, and democrat talking points.)
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To: Mr. K

OK the polarity is indicated on the case but not the voltage - I tested with increasing voltage, 1.5 3 and at 4.5 the lights start flashing, then go out... so I’m thinking 5...


12 posted on 04/16/2013 9:22:24 AM PDT by djf (Rich widows: My Bitcoin address is... 1ETDmR4GDjwmc9rUEQnfB1gAnk6WLmd3n6)
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To: Mr. K

I have started taping the gadget it is meant for to the chord so I can easily identify what it was for. I have about 100 of those silly things

Good idea.


13 posted on 04/16/2013 9:27:44 AM PDT by djf (Rich widows: My Bitcoin address is... 1ETDmR4GDjwmc9rUEQnfB1gAnk6WLmd3n6)
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To: djf

cord


14 posted on 04/16/2013 9:28:28 AM PDT by Ray76 (Do you reject Obama? And all his works? And all his empty promises?)
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To: djf

the OUTER part of the connector is *usually* the ground

(PLEASE correct me anyone if i am wrong)


15 posted on 04/16/2013 9:32:44 AM PDT by Mr. K (There are lies, damned lies, statistics, and democrat talking points.)
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To: djf

you won’t go wrong with +/- a volt or so

Just dont plug 120AC into it

I started taping a TAG to my devices and cords so I know what the voltage is and what device it goes to


16 posted on 04/16/2013 9:34:33 AM PDT by Mr. K (There are lies, damned lies, statistics, and democrat talking points.)
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To: Mr. K

I blew up a laptop once that had a 12V input.

Hooked it to a car battery.

Worked for a few minutes, then started smelling funny... there was a flash, then nuthin

Couldn’t handle 12.6 volts. Actually, probably too many amps at a bit of an overvoltage

chit happens - it was a freebie, now its spare parts, no biggie!


17 posted on 04/16/2013 9:54:53 AM PDT by djf (Rich widows: My Bitcoin address is... 1ETDmR4GDjwmc9rUEQnfB1gAnk6WLmd3n6)
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To: djf
Much of what I see these days is 12v DC, positive pole, 1000 milliamps. Give that a try.

If that's really a "hub", and not a switch, dude, replace it. Hubs are so "90s", like zip drives.

18 posted on 04/16/2013 10:10:37 AM PDT by Lee N. Field ("You keep using that verse, but I do not think it means what you think it means." --I. Montoya)
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To: djf
No hub will be designed to take less than 5 volts. That is because the USB standard is 5 volts.

Polarity should be marked on the hub. There should be a diagram with a broken line above a solid line, or the reverse. This indicates polarity. Google "DC polarity markings" to learn more.

19 posted on 04/16/2013 10:36:09 AM PDT by backwoods-engineer (Blog: www.BackwoodsEngineer.com)
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To: backwoods-engineer

Sorry, I said, USB, I meant to say 10baseT.


20 posted on 04/16/2013 10:36:59 AM PDT by backwoods-engineer (Blog: www.BackwoodsEngineer.com)
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