Water heater replacement day!

[djf]

OK, my current water heater (mfg date 9545, YYWW) gave up the ghost and today it gets replaced.

It is a 50 gallon 240V electric model. I am pretty much convinced on a GE 40 or 50 gal 240V model, the 40 gal is making more sense since I live alone now.

Some of the sites talking water heater recommend a round drip pan underneath. I never heard of such a thing, anybody know about it?

I already have the complete set of Sharkbite fittings I will need.

Hints? Tips? Theories? Prayers? Thanks in advance!

[from occupied ga]

One suggestion is that if you can you get the same model or the most current version thereof of what you already have. makes the hooking up of the pipes easier.

On my water heater I have five attachment points that have to line up the chimney, the gas line (black iron pipe), inlet, outlet and pressure relief all 3/4 copper pipe. The most recent replacement I could line up the gas, the chimney, and the relief, but I had to use the two 45 deg coupling trick on the inlet and the oulet to get them lined up.

[djf]

That’s what I’m thinking. Doing everything I can do now BEFORE installation, all the things I would think if it failed, “Damn! I wish I did that when I put it in...”

[Mr. K]

yeah a drip pan won’t hurt and it can be very useful

I just could not understand the major importance of the question - is jut not that big a deal, UNLESS you are on a hardwood floor, then I put many layers of drip pans under everything- espeically all my house plants

you want a drip pan- put a drip pan! by all means

[JRandomFreeper]

Running hot water is for wimps. ;)

/johnny

[mad_as_he$$]

No matter where you live spend the extra $10 and put an earthquake bracket on it.

[djf]

Sharkbite makes a steel lined 24 in 3/4 flex hose that goes from a nipple to copper or pex.

It’s a bit pricey, but way better than messing with all the aggravation of trying to get things all lined up!

[djf]

LOL! I know!

You got it down to a science.

No hot water... no food... no clothing...

Just the necessities!

;-)

[grobdriver]

If the water heater is in a garage you will want to drain the drip pan to the floor beyond the curb (raised concrete that you tire bumps against) or outside if you can.
Drip pans come with a hole in the side which is intended to receive a fitting to run PVC out to drain the pan.
Water heaters sometimes burst a seam and drain spontaneously, not always a slow leak.
The talk about code confuses current code with the requirements for your house (speaking of Texas, now) - current code may require something, but if you're replacing an item in an older home you only need comply with the code that was applicable when your home was built.
They can't very well grandfather new code to all older homes.
If you go tankless, you'll need to think big. A small tankless system may not be able to keep up with a couple of showers running, or filling a large bath tub.

[ABN 505]

Remember to replace the tank anode every year, new ones are about twenty bucks or so.

[Chode]

put in an electric on demand heater. cut my elec bills in half...

[ErnBatavia]

Avoid Rennai at all costs, if the experiences of our two sets of pals are any guide. Waaay over-rated, and waaay underperforming.

[LSAggie]

the one going out the door had only a 5 year, but lasted for about 17 years

Years ago we had to replace a water heater that had lasted for 22 years. The installation guys laughed and assured us the new one would not be lasting anywhere near that long. (sigh)

[jughandle]

Code or not, definitely get the drip pan. Depending on the water quality where you live, I’ve seen quite a few start leaking just after the warranty expires, but then again the areas I work have terrible water (minerals, hardness, etc.). Warranty claims for a self-install usually involve the homeowner removing and returning the tank to the store.
Up to you to have the code official sign off on the install, I didn’t for my own, but at work we are required to pull the permit.

[trailz]

Don’t think you mentioned pex, just tryin’ to help.

As far as how long it may last, I’m not saying you’re not capable of installing it, I’m just saying they may not honor any warranty if you do.

[count-your-change]

Sometimes the biggest problem is draining the water from the tank. My old heater had about a two gallon bucket of mineral scale in the bottom and I had a job of work getting the thing to drain.

I had replaced the lower heating element a couple of years before and extended it’s life a bit but I don’t really recommend doing that since the heater is failing otherwise too.

So go for it! What can happen? Electrocution? Flooding your entire house? Tens of thousands of dollars in damage? A hernia from trying to move a half full tank?

[djf]

Lol!

An optimist!

[ABN 505]

Scale buildup is do to not replacing the Anode in the tank. Your tank will last far longer if properly maintained. Get the magnisium not aluminum anodes.

[ontap]

Got rid of standard water heater for a tankless years ago....one of smartest decisions I’ve ever made....endless hot water and I only heat it when I use it!!!

[rstrahan]

Really look at a tankless. Especially with an electric, since electric HWH is much less efficient than a gas one. Should save you big bucks, and you should be able to install it yourself. The Big Box improvement stores carry them.

[Jack of all Trades]

step one, drain water heater *very important* turn off the water heater power...

Tips? If you're not confident sweating pipes, buy some extra copper fittings and practice. Proper cleaning and heating of both parts is the majority of that. Oh, and don't burn your house down if the pipes are close to wood. You can probably pick up a small scrap of concrete board at a lumber yard to use as a heat shield. Good luck!