Posted on 06/19/2013 4:27:16 AM PDT by djf
OK, my current water heater (mfg date 9545, YYWW) gave up the ghost and today it gets replaced.
It is a 50 gallon 240V electric model. I am pretty much convinced on a GE 40 or 50 gal 240V model, the 40 gal is making more sense since I live alone now.
Some of the sites talking water heater recommend a round drip pan underneath. I never heard of such a thing, anybody know about it?
I already have the complete set of Sharkbite fittings I will need.
Hints? Tips? Theories? Prayers? Thanks in advance!
The drip pan helps you to see that your water heater is failing before it floods your house. I would recommend a drip pan.
1) unbolt old water heater
2) bolt in new water heater
it doesn’t get much easier than that
If your water heater needs a drip pan then there is something wrong- if it is in the basement, I would not worry- if it is on a hardwood floor- than OK why not
It is the pressure relief valve and pipe that is usually the biggest drip concern
Codes some places *require* that drip pan nowadays. It’s just a round pan, a little bigger than the heater diameter, with sides a couple or three inches high. Metal or plastic. You can get ‘em at Home Depot.
I don’t have one on my water heater and it’s about as old as yours. I’d probably put it in if I redid mine — if the thing leaks the pan will catch it and save you damage.
The sharkbite stuff is good. Save you a lot of time.
Turn off the breaker and the water before you disconnect it. :-) j/k I’m sure you know that.
Drip pans are handy, I put my water heater up on cement blocks to assist in rust prevention from below as the Concrete pad sometimes “sweats” due to the high water level in the ground here.
Also I use a solar assisted model with an 80 gal tank. The more water that is heated by solar during the day the less electricity is used during the evening. I highly recommend solar assist for the Hot water heater no matter what your climate is.
Sounds like it would be wise if you familiarized yourself with the latest building codes in your area before proceeding.
Sharkbites are generally considered as ‘temporary’. I’d recommend good old fashioned soldered joints, which we know have consistently stood the test of time.
step one, drain water heater...
The point about the drip pan is it is sort of an easy warning system more than a preventative.
I knew my water heater is old, so have been checking it regularly, it is sitting on a hardwood floor, not a basement. I would say it could not have been leaking for more than 2 days before I saw it.
So if I get a pan, it’s almost like the next thing to add would be an audible alarm if a leak starts.
The GE I’m thinking about has 6 yrs warranty, the one going out the door had only a 5 year, but lasted for about 17 years. Can’t say I’m disappointed with that!
That’s why I sorta splurged on the Sharkbite fittings. I’m done messing with hose clamps!
I’ve heard in the past about just weird stuff happening when electrical items were placed on concrete.
Who knows. Might be something to it.
I believe water heater warranties these days are only honored if installed by a licensed plumber . . .
A cheap, high-decibel water leak alarm placed near the hot water heater would be a good investment. Costs around 20 bucks. Also, I learned the hard way that it’s a good idea to replace the heater around the time that the warranty expires, even though there are no signs of failure.
Can’t solder PEX.
The last one I installed had a 5 year on it, but lasted 17 years.
Must have just been luck, eh?
Perhaps an aside. If you are connected to a municipal water supply, there is probably a check valve at the connection to prevent Mohammad from back pumping poison into the water supply. So you get your new water heater, fill it with cold water and heat it up. Water expands, water pressure goes up because there is no where for water to expand to.
In this scenario, you need to install a small pressure tank with an air bladder in the supply line to absorb this pressure. Absent the bladder, you will have premature failure of the seals in your water heater.
Just went through water heater replacement. Went with a tankless and love it.
My comment is that it is wise to not install a large capacity water heater if you live alone. The cost of heating water is the second largest cost of electricity.
You get a tax credit on energy efficient improvements... and the water heater is included.
My only advice is to prepare for the old one to leak somewhat when it's being carted out, even after it's drained. I found out the hard way that sometimes all the water doesn't come out! At least not when they drain it. But it can leak out while being carted through the house to get it outside. Wrap the drain spigot near the bottom of the tank in plastic or something absorbent to keep discolored water from staining carpet. Or in my case, to keep it from making the stairs all wet. I had a NASTY fall last year after they carted out the old unit and I didn't realize how wet it had gotten the steps. Take it from a klutz, an ounce of prevention might save you months of pain ;)
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