Skip to comments.I have some questions about my Tomatos...
Posted on 08/17/2013 7:00:14 AM PDT by US Navy Vet
My tomatoes are just producing ALOT of leaves and LITTLE TINY Yellow flowers but NO "fruit" yet. Is this normal? All you FreeRepublic Gardeners have any answers for me? I Live in W/ Iowa(Council Bluffs).
It depends on lots of things, but most tomato varieties will not set fruit above 92 F. Has it been hot in your parts?
Yes, I agree- might be too hot. I use ‘blossom set’ spray too —
Been a pretty mild summer(may 1 week above 90 whole summer).
The heat is the likely culprit. I’m in western Ne, and only recently with the cooler nights, have my plants begun to set heavily. Could also be too much fertilizer/water.
Most garden centers...and I think Walmart...carry a product called “blossem set.” It is a hormone that promotes fruit setting. Get some and spray it on. It helps.
Pinch off the suckers. That will stop the plants form putting on too much foliage and not enough fruit. Do a search and find a picture of the suckers to pinch off.
Garden ping question.....
Lots of fruit for me here in southern michigan but too cold for Tomatoes to ripen.
not enough bees,monsanto killed all the bees
It’s 61 degrees out with a high of 66 here in NC today.
Strangest summer weather to happen in years.
Bboop touched on where I look next, which is nutrients. Fruit bearing plants need the right balance of phosphorous to nitrogen. I found this on the Burpee site.
Got lots of leaves, but no fruit? The plant is likely getting too much nitrogen, which triggers it to grow foliage, and not enough phosphorus, which favors flowering and fruiting. Choose a fertilizer that has a balanced ratio of the three major elements, such as 10-10-10, or where the middle number (phosphorus) is larger than the first number (nitrogen), such as 2-3-1. Tomatoes are heavy feeders and usually do need fertilizer unless your soil is very rich. But follow the directions carefully to avoid overdoing it. Slow-release fertilizers, including organic formulas such as Burpee’s Organic Tomato Fertilizer with Aragonite have a greater margin of error than fast-release water-soluble kinds.
Give them more time. Tomatoes have a somewhat nasty habit of doing exactly that, you get tons of flowers, and wait and wait and wait and there is no fruit, then one day you go out and you have 100 tiny tomatoes starting.
How long have they been in?
I planted store start tomatoes back in May and only in the last 4 weeks or so am I getting fruit.
But around mid-June a bunch of plants started on their own in my compost pile and they are going hells bells, MUCH better than my store bought varieties.
If tomatoes are going good they are pretty hardy and you should have till first frost.
Also, normally tomatoes form tiny clusters or tree-like things of flowers, with eight to twelve flowers on the same tiny branch. You might want to snip them back so that the branch has only one or two actual tomatoes on them, that way they should mature quicker.
NUTHIN BETTER than a good home grown vine ripened tomato!
Its global warming, y’all!!! See, it gets colder which means it really wants to be hotter, so...um... if you don’t believe that, then you are racist. /s
I am about 80 miles to the East. Our tomatoes are quite late but coming on strong now. I think patience is the prescription.
Yum yum! Green fried tomatoes
It is because of the cool summer we are having. Let them stay until the first frost.
Another method the scammers are using is this, we are experiencing a pause in man made global warming, so we should take advantage of it and rapidly implement carbon taxes, green energy, etc. NOW!
I’ve read where they self pollenate, but I have seen bees, etc. hit the blossoms....One thing I did read and did was to shake new blossom branches gently to stir things up a bit.
After I did this, I did see more fruit start to bear.
My biggest problem was little brown mite-like bugs killing all the leaves. I got some spray for vegetables and it helped but I probably started this too late....
My stuff was grown in three pots on the front porch..
I don't know how or why, but I'm sure that is racist and homophobic.
It’s tomatoes and potatoes.
Agreed. If you are using Sevin, stop. The only bug killer I use is spinosad, and I only use it on my squash.
“How long have they been in?”, since Late May.
That’s for sure. We have 15 tomato plants and only two reddish tomatoes. The variety in one garden has lots of leaves, not as many tomatoes, but better now. Not sure why. Romas have lots of tomatoes, only one pink one. Staking might help.
Failure to set fruit or poor fruit set
1. Night temperatures above 70 degrees or below 55 degrees.
2. Day temperatures above 90 degrees combined with low humidity and/or drought. Hot drying winds can add to the problem.
3. Dry soil can cause blossoms to dry up and drop.
4. Too much nitrogen fertilizer produces leafy growth at the expense of flowers and fruits.
5. Cold soils at planting time can stunt growth and delay or eliminate flowering.
6. Insufficient light. Tomatoes require at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day.
7. Viral diseases, such as, curly top, mosaic viruses, etc. can affect flowering and fruit set.
8. Lack of air circulation can inhibit the movement of pollen to the flower pistils.
Tomatoes are self pollinators, they don’t need bees or other insects for pollination. As others have said high temps in the 90’s inhibits this self pollination. Usually the flowers are vibrated by a breeze which induces pollination. You can help the process by thumping the stems that the flowers are on to get them to vibrate. I do a walk through my garden every morning and thump each stem the flowers are on, on each and every tomato plant. Takes a little time but i also get to inspect for bad insects and other problems.
Hope this helps but you can’t control the temps.
Here in Virginia, we had an unusually late frost and it damaged fruit trees and veggies. Not enough to kill but many trees are not bearing fruit this year and good gardeners are complaining of 6ft tall tomato plants with no fruit or green ones that won’t ripen. My greenhouse saved me and covering up what I could on the frosty nights..
See post 26 above
Looks like a little August weather is coming next week and that should help with the 60+ degree nights.
I’m getting ripe ones as long as I pick them at the first signs of yellow. What I found last fall was that picking all of them and putting them in a dark box ripened about 90% of them.
I love pot-growing tomatoes- I used an office size garbage can from the dollar store and had excellent results
22 inches tall and about 14 wide it was better than a potting container which were too short and squat
you have to pinch off some suckers and let it devote energy to the fruit
the suckers are the little branches that sprout between a main branch and a side branch - pull all of those
When I try that they usually just rot. :(
Great response. I was averaging about 150-200#s per week. Once night temps fought to reach 50F, I had lots of blossom drop. They’ll re group - I’ll just can carrots and potatoes in the mean time :-)
This is NOT an English OR Spelling Thread, it is an information thread SO get lost.
Thanks! I’ll try that next time....on the trash cans...did you punch holes in them?
Here is how to pinch off the suckers.
I don't know how or why, but I'm sure that is racist and homophobic.
Pruning tomato plants.
I don’t know how or why, but I’m sure that is racist and homophobic.
Plant a few patches of Oregano. When it blooms the bees will come.
get some Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) work a table spoon around each plant .it is the same as blossom set in the spray can only cheaper
Everyone I know has had problems with tomatoes this year.
You should still have time, not sure when your average first frost is.
Like I said above, when the fruit starts setting you might want to pinch off flower clusters so the developing fruit gets the plant energy.
Also, I’m not sure what your soil conditions are there, but here in the PNW, it’s very acidic and low in calcium. So I add a good amount of lime to my maters. The growing fruit needs alot of calcium, and you will get blossom end rot if they can’t get it fast enough.
As long as you don’t have any discoloration of the vines or obvious signs of fungal problems on the leaves, you should be ok.
Last year I lost almost my entire crop to late blight. Didn’t affect my potatoes at all. Odd, because late blight is what caused the Irish potato famine.
Tomato plants don’t need bees to pollinate. Same with pepper plants, both are self pollinators.
That's why I'll plant my starters (South Kalifornia low desert) by September 15 -- they're done being harvested in late January....the neighbor gal loves 'em, because she makes her salsa for their Super Bowl party.
Tomatoes do nothing at night when it is under 56 degrees and in the daytime, they do nothing over 86 degrees. It has been cool here (I am East of you). Everyone is just starting to get ripening. Anyone who put their plants in the end of May ran the risk of early blight from the cool, wet weather.
You may be out of luck for this season. We have a warm week coming up, but less than 5-6 weeks til frost. You may try and cover them if we do have frost, because we will likely get warm days after that for another 3 weeks. Uncover them for warm days.
Every variety has a *time ‘til harvest*. We had wet, cool weather here the end of May, which is normal planting time, and mine went in 2 weeks late. Time is counted from when the starts go into the ground or final container. The starts spent an extra 2 weeks in a greenhouse. My 56-60 day cherry tomatoes are ripening now and the larger ones, which take 75+ days, have finally begun to yellow. We have at least 2 more weeks for the slicers and Romas. Since we are down in a valley, it could be three weeks. Your micro climate is important. Open ridge-top gardens can be 2 weeks ahead of those in a valley.
Tomatoes are wind pollinated, not dependent on bees. If you have flowers that don’t drop of, watch them. They should turn upside down, the flower dries and when it is gone, there should be a small green ball on the stem, which is the tomato.
If the climate really is cooling, which seems obvious and likely, to me, for next year choose varieties bred for early bearing (55-65 days) and look for ones bred for Northern climates. Start researching and ordering your seeds
in December and January. I used to start seeds in February, but this year it was way too cold until March. 2 months is enough for good starts, but keep them in their starter pots in a greenhouse w/some added heat, if below 56 degrees, until all frost warnings are past. Some folks choose larger starter pots and let the plants develop flowers before final planting. This will give you some earlier fruit.
Tomatoes are either determinate, meaning the plants only grow to a certain size and then stop putting out flowers and concentrate on fruit, or indeterminate, meaning they keep growing and flowering even while they have mature fruit. As soon as they set fruit, pinch/cut off the extra leaves/branches, called suckers, that are not bearing flowers. You can prune off the top branches of indeterminate plants, too.
I use Tomato-Tone plant food. It is low nitrogen and is applied every 2 weeks. Keep it away from the stem, as it can burn the plant. Search for high phosphorus tomato food and use it as directed.
If there is an early frost, you can pick any fruit that is showing even a tinge of pink (called breaker stage) and it will ripen in a sunny window. You can also wrap any pink fruit in brown paper lunch bags and place in single rows in a container in a cool dark spot. Check every few days. They will slowly ripen.
But, sometimes I have found that if one were to rub two of the blossoms together, then pollinization will occur. And, once it starts it continues.
Might have too much nitrogen in the soil.
All vine no fruit.
Try telling that to poor Dan Quayle!
You don’t know beans about tomatoes.
I get some that rot but I keep on top of them so I can get rid of any that look bruised every day. I usually put them in a box with layers of newspaper and dig though them every day.
They both(one “Big Beef” and One “Cherry”) are in large pots on our back deck so if there is a danger of frost I COULD bring them in and put them in the basement and put a lamp over them(like indoor Pot “farmers” do(or so I’m told)).
Any veggie that needs an E to pass themselves off a plural is up to no good.
Potatoes and Tomatoes, the gig is up.