Skip to comments.Spread It: 13 New York Restaurants That Take Butter Very Seriously
Posted on 04/16/2014 4:19:38 PM PDT by nickcarraway
The best breaking food news in the last few weeks is that butter is back, and better for you than ever (or something we're not totally convinced it's health food, only that it's delicious). It's great timing: There are plenty of New York restaurants making saturated fat worth your while, offering next-level butter made with bonito flakes, roe, lavender, seaweed, and, of course, uni. To celebrate butter's big comeback, Grub rounded up 13 rich, excellent butters around town.
Betony The Dish: Poached Lobster With Roe Butter Bryce Shuman likes Kriemhild Dairy Farms' meadow butter: It's produced upstate and churned slowly at a low level so there's less moisture, and a high 85-percent fat content. He uses it as the base of roe butter, which makes his lobster dish taste even richer.
Navy The Dish: Uni-Butter Toast This is quickly becoming a signature dish of chef Camille Becerra, who cultures cream in-house and blends it with sea urchin. The uni butter is served in thick, cold curls, with fresh sorrel and celery.
Contra The Dish: Bonito Butter It's well worth spending the $3 supplement for bread and butter here: In the past, Jeremiah Stone and Fabian von Hauske have offered black-truffle butter seasoned with onion salt, and right now, they're making bonito butter in house.
Butter & Scotch The Dish: Pie! All of the Pie! Allison Kave and Keavy Blueher use European-style high-butterfat brands like Plugrá in their bourbon-ginger-pecan and shoo-fly pies. Kave also recommends Kriemhild for straight-up eating (not as much for baking).
Atera The Dish: House-made Bread and Butter During his 25-course tasting menu, Matthew Lightner serves an aged butter that's made with Winnimere cheese from Jasper Hill Farm. He combines the rind from the cheese with cream from Battenkill Valley Creamery, and after two weeks, removes the rind and mixes it into a butter. The butter is then aged for at least another week before it reaches the table.
Nourish Kitchen & Table The Dish: Radishes Butter is sparse at this health-driven restaurant, but when Marissa Lippert does use it, she prefers Trickling Springs Creamery's cultured butter. It serves as the base to two different house-made compound butters one with Turkish Aleppo pepper and lemon zest; the other with lavender and herbs. They both get paired with radishes.
Luksus The Dish: Varies Daniel Burns says that he uses and loves Sunrise Family Farms' butter, which is produced in Ithaca. Look for it in dishes like chanterelles with an egg yolk and sucrine lettuce. Or, if you're lucky, spread on Burns's killer bread course.
Extra Fancy The Dish: Uni Butter This Williamsburg seafood restaurant uses locally produced Ithaca Milk cream as the base for its uni butter and in its Connecticut-style, garlic-butter-drench lobster roll, of course.
French Louie The Dish: Smoked Sardines This new Boerum Hill restaurant makes dulse butter in house, folding the sea vegetable sourced from Rhode Island into softened butter. It's perfect for spreading on rye toast and topping with the smoked fish.
Piora The Dish: Monkey Bread With Seaweed Butter To make flavor-packed seaweed butter in house, Chris Cipollone starts with 40 percent milk-fat cream. If that's not enough, the warm Parker House-like bread also comes with whipped rosemary La Quercia lardo.
The Modern The Dish: Varies Danny Meyer takes butter seriously: His chefs use a European-style cultured cow's milk butter from Vermont Creamery, which has a salt content significantly lower than typical salted butter (apparently, it enhances a "farm-fresh flavor"). And the king of hospitality also offers goat's milk butter from Meyenberg in California: It's gluten-free, rich, creamy, slightly "hazelnutty," and perfect for lactose-intolerant diners.
Momofuku Ko The Dish: Radish Butter David Chang is one of the pioneers of next-level butter: His sous chef, Josh Pinsky, makes radish butter in house, tops it with pepper and coriander, and serves it with house-made sourdough bread.
The Musket Room The Dish: Off-Menu Bone-Marrow Butter And perhaps the best butter of all: Besides the fresh butter with smoked salt that Matt Lambert serves with three types of house-made bread (sourdough, bacon-cheddar, and multigrain), he also makes an off-menu butter that's mixed with bone marrow, as well as duck and bacon fat. The butter itself comes from a local dairy in the Finger Lakes, Ithaca Milk.
When I was a kid I actually preferred margarine to butter. then for the last 50 years or so butter is the only thing which tastes good.
Look for the Commie DiBlasio to put a stop to this quickly. Can’t have the peasants acting against their own best interests based on science that isn’t approved by the state.
Butter is a gift from God.
Grew up on butter, though my Mother went through a margarine period in the early ‘60s. Haven’t touched fake butter since. Challenge Salted Whipped butter is my favorite.
So avant-garde to eat, or do things that most people have been doing for years or decades.
Wait until the cow-fart tax catches up to them; Then see them howl.
I like to puree fresh tarragon and shallot with pure butter and the slather it over a choice rib eye. Too bad I have a killer meat loaf in the oven right now...requested by my 13 year old son.
It helps to know what margarine really is, whipped vegetable oil.
Not much different then olive oil but sure sounds a lot worse.
Butter is back????????
I wasn’t aware that it left.
It’s hydrogenation, not whipping, that turns vegetable oil from a liquid into a solid. Then they add yellow coloring and maybe some artificial flavor.
To me, margarine has a plastic taste and is really awful on toast or a baked potato.
When living in Germany, my favorite restaurant would provide a dish each of butter, congealed bacon fat, liver pate, and herb goat cheese with their bread selection (which itself was awesome).
It was heavenly.
Its still gross
Yeah a good butter or olive oil cannot be beat.
Absolutely. And from a health standpoint hydrogenation is much worse than whipping.
A few years back we had an employee, young and active, who had a terrible cholesterol problem - a problem not from lifestyle but his own body makeup. He said margarine was wayyy worse for him than butter - something about the size of the molecules or something like that as I recall.
I grew up on a farm and every Saturday morning my mom would get the butter churn out and I spent a good part of that morning making our weekly supply of butter. My dad loved fresh buttermilk and drank a glass full most every day.
I bought oleo one time as an adult during the 1960’s. It was just the thing to do. Tried it once but even my kids wouldn’t eat it so threw it away and we went back to real butter.
No, it’s even worse- margarine is partially hydrogenated vegetable oil.
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