Skip to comments.Need advice on buying a used car (2012 Hyundai Accent)
Posted on 04/16/2014 7:04:10 PM PDT by Kolath
I'm looking to buy a new vehicle after my old one (2005 Hyundai Accent) hit the 110000 mile mark. I've nicked-named it the "old gray mare"
I'll be going to the same Hyundai dealer who sold me the previous Accent. I'm looking at a 2012 Accent which was a lease and it only has 6176 miles on it.
Auto Check is "clean" and it's Hyundai "Certified Pre-Owned" (and under it's original warranty).
Any advice you can offer to make this a smooth transaction, save some money, and avoid pitfalls?
FYI: I'm already pre-approved by my local credit union (helps to have a 800+ credit score).
(Excerpt) Read more at edwardshyundai.com ...
PS: Asking price is $12,828 (automatic transmission with the usual standard equipment)
110K - still practically new.
For Japanese cars.
My Japanese car is nearing 100K...middle age. I take care of it and hope to see it hit 200K.
I drive a 30 year old Mercedes diesel that I bought ten years ago for $100. What does that tell you?
If you want it, that is reason enough to buy.
I think your old one is still good for a lot more miles and years. Of course you know it better than anyone.
It never hurts to have a backup.
My FIL was close friends with a dealer who sold cars for at least 50 years and also owned and sold another 100 plus cars himself. He said that there is at least $2000 dealing margin in the price and another $2000 in the trade in value. This was 10 years ago. This worked for people he knew, cutting the amount they paid by $4000.
You have a good financial sense, by priority?
Shop your trade in, numerous places will buy it wholesale outright without a trade. Could come out better than what the dealer with the vehicle you want to buy is offering.
You’d come out best selling your old car yourself and getting better than wholesale, but you’d likely miss out on the car you want, if you have to trade to pull off buying it.
Certified pre-owned is often a better warranty than new. I assume it’s still the 100K mile bumper to bumper? Decent warranty.
Only concern with the car itself would be that it has been parked for a lengthy period for some reason, blown engine or something. Unusually low miles can mean trouble. Carfax history should show any major mechanical work as well as accidents, routine maintenance performed by a dealer, etc.
I bought an ‘05 Elantra GT (leather/roof/sound), with 85k on the speedo, for $2,200 on CL. But it had a salvage title. I’ve put 50k miles on it, and have zero problems except tires/delamination. If you are paying cash, offer $10k, but since you mentioned your credit score as a brag, go ahead and overpay.
Uh, black smoke out the tailpipe, especially when the pedal is just recently pressed to the metal?
I drove my old Honda to 210,000 and still sold it for $800. But that was a ‘90. I don’t think they make them like that anymore.
That, too. She was asking $2,000, so I was waiting for a commission check (was a mortgage broker at the time) when she suddenly called and said to bring over $100 and pick up my car. Her heirs were fighting over the Mercedes, even though they were in line to inherit millions.
Ram 1500 pickup
Volkswagen Jetta TDI
Not as much as you’d think. Plus, that’s the guy behind me’s problem. LOL
Well, I’ve got two #9’s, both about halfway there.
Daughter-in-law’s Subaru wagon had rust holes clear through the body. It was just traded in (they gave her $1,000) at just under 300,000 miles.
Hyundai has improved from one of the poorer quality cars to one of the best. That is quite a change. I am not sure when they began to be really good tho.
Your biggest mistake was by not stopping just shy of the 100k mark.
But even at 110, unless you have issues, and do some routine maintenance, the car should be good for another 100k. What you should do (IMO) is to start shoving money into the ole cookie jar so that in a few more years you can buy an even better car.
I remember we had a (70’s?) 300D (TD?) test car. BIG cloud out the back on brisk acceleration.
Dang it. I knew I got screwed.
If they mean the new Dodge Dart based on Alfa Romeo mechanicals, there is insufficient history to make such a claim. I doubt there are even a handful that are close to 300K miles.
You can easily get another 110,000 miles out of the 2005.
Cool. I have 365k on a Ford Explorer.
Mine is a 300D turbo. Maybe the turbocharger makes the difference?
My 1992 Camry 2.2 4-cyl had 332,000 miles on it when I sold it. Original stick-shift transmission and didn’t burn a drop of oil. But a well-maintained Hyundai with 110,000 miles should have had some life left in it.
Looks like a nice car, though. Have you seen the new Alfa Romeo sports care coming here?
You can’t afford it.
Nope, if you have a 300D and it has a turbo, so did the car of yore, but a newer one might not go so far beyond the Diesel smoke limit on full throttle fueling as the older ones.
I know a 1999 Honda Civic that has 210,000 and it’s still going strong.
They’re very nice looking cars, I’ve been impressed in general with Fiat’s efforts with Chrysler, to my surprise. I’ve admired Alfas for years and regretted that they were no longer being sold in the US, same with Citroen. That coupe is a really slick looking vehicle. Price will be an obstacle, though. Not especially accessible.
Keep your car, sounds like it is in pretty good shape, save the payment money you would spend on this one and pay cash for a car later. No way I would finance an almost 3 year old car and I don’t care how many miles it has on it.
I learned the ‘save payment money and pay cash’ many years ago. We have paid cash for a Jaguar and a Mercedes SUV by doing that. I am and have been saving $550 a month for a year (since we bought the Mercedes) for my next new car. The Jag is getting kind of old now.
Thanks! Well done by Ford, well done by the mechanics who have worked on it over the years, and a lot of luck on my part!
Used Chevy Astro van, best advice I can give you. My favorite vehicle ever.
First, know how much your trade in is really worth. The dealer will try to give you wholesale or less. Then know what the newer Accent is worth, the dealer will try to sell it at retail or higher.
I had a Nephew who got taken by a dealer the worst I have ever heard of. He just had to have a Honda Civic when they were really hot sellers.
He traded in a two year old Toyota extra-cab 4wd pickup which was about as minty as they get. Perfect in every way and low mileage. I checked the various dealer books and the Toyota was actually worth a little bit more than the new Honda.
They gave him $3500 trade-in and charged him sticker for the Honda. They had a live one and knew it. The nearest I could figure, is they made around $7,500.00 off him.
What trim level (GLS, GS, SE) and what type of transmission?
I could tell you a thing or two about cars, but what do I know? lol
checked carfax. Used as a lease for 10 months....last oil change was at 6176 miles (July 26, 2013).
No other issues of note.
Current milage 6176.
Friend of mine owns a hyundai dealership in west edmonton. There is no markup on new, it’s pretty low as is. That said, I’d probably go for the more solid elantra, though it’s all about what you are comfortable paying.
The money is in used cars and tradeins. For price of new with foreign makes, there’s not much fudge factor.
Now domestic is a whole different story.
My question would be “Why are you buying a new car?” Only to be followed up with, “Why are you not paying cash if you must buy a new car?”
I have a 2003 Trailblazer with 299,978 miles as of this evening. Original engine, replaced alternator and battery only. Still has the original brakes, shocks and exhaust. Still gets 22-24 mpg.
Ten months is not a typical lease term. Repo?
6176 miles in late July of last year, 6176 miles as of today? It hasn’t been moved an inch to be test driven or washed in almost eight months?
Carfax should also tell you how long this particular dealer has been in possession of the car. If they’re offering Certified on it, it’s a Hyundai dealer. Leased from them or brought in from elsewhere?
Sorry to be throwing doubt into the equation, but you’ve got to do your due diligence on a used car. Could be nothing, and you can buy it with a clear conscience. Could be something, and you’ll be dodging a bullet.
I would recommend a Ford Fusion. My wife has had three of them and they are great cars. She leases them for 2 to 3 years.
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