McSorely's celebrates 150th year [NYC's oldest pub]

The Journal News ^ | 2/17/04 | Michael Gannon

[brewer1516]

"...12 taps; over 60 bottled beers (strong on Belgian and British). Now, authentic hand pumps!...)

You, my friend, may have just filled my itinerary.
I don't drink much, but I drink well.

"...best fries in NYC from Pomme Frites ..."
Seriously, I think I saw them on the Food Network.

Hey, even if I don't get to make all the stops I can sound like I know what the hell I'm talkin' about.

Thanks,

Brew

[TEXASPROUD]

When I think of my favorite Irish Pub, I think of a little shebeen that I was introduced to by my new brother in law. It's in Co. Kilkenny a couple of miles outside of Paulstown off the road to Castelcomer. It's a place called "The Tatch". It's a small place, up in the hills, and ye haven't enough room to swing a cat, but some of the friendliest ambience I have ever experienced. (and a proper pour of Guiness that even the angels sigh.)

[Dan from Michigan]

I'll remember that when I finally am able to head over there.

[OESY]

The motto [old John McSorley] coined adorns a plaque that hangs above the bar: "Be good, or be gone."

True to their golden rule, they were good so they're not gone.

Be Good Or Be Gone

The undisputed champion of New York City drinking institutions is an ancient taproom called McSorley's Old Ale House, located in New York City's East Village since 1854. Presidents, residents, authors and thieves -- everyone from Abe Lincoln to John Lennon have indulged in a "One and One," the tradition of ordering two mugs of house-brand ale at a time, while obeying the McSorley's golden rule: "Be Good or Be Gone."

A saloon with swinging doors, sawdust floors and a long wooden counter, McSorley's has been characterized as "an old whore who's lived so long she's become respectable." Perhaps the single greatest novelty of McSorley's is that it has served only one beverage in its nearly 150-year history -- Ale! "A rich, wax-color" is how author Joseph Mitchell described the McSorley's brew, as deft-handed waiters deliver as many as twenty sparkling glasses of ale at a time to thirsty patrons.

More history about "the place where time stands still".

McSorley's Old Ale House has been a gathering place, a drinking hole, the subject of art and literature and even a United States supreme court controversy. Everyone from Abe Lincoln to John Lennon have indulged in a "One and One." Woody Guthrie rallied the early American union movement from a table in the back - guitar in hand while constitutional attorneys Faith Seidenberg and Karen DeCrow had to take their case to the U.S. Supreme Court to gain access – women finally being allowed entry in 1970! From it's humble origins as an Irish workingman's saloon - cheese and crackers on the house-ale for pennies more, to its discovery by the mainstream in a 1940's LIFE magazine pictorial, McSorley's is steeped in a cultural cacophony of Americana. Presidents, residents, authors and thieves - the lot of humanity has sat and shared, all obeying the McSorley's golden rule "Be Good or Be Gone".

Perhaps the single greatest novelty of McSorley's is that it has served only one beverage in its nearly 150-year history-Ale! "A rich, wax-color" is how author Joseph Mitchell described the McSorley's brew in his 1940 book "McSorley's Wonderful Saloon." And the ale didn't stop pouring during the dark hours of America's prohibition on alcohol either – the operation simply moved from the neighborhood brewery to the basement, where it stayed until prohibition was repealed.

The McSorley's of today differs little from the original. House cats (Minnie and Red) lounge near the coal-burning stove, while deft-handed waiters deliver as many as twenty glasses of ale at a time to thirsty patrons. The small galley in the backroom serves up daily specials as well as McSorley's famous chili, burgers and some of the most reasonably priced sandwiches in the city.

In 1977, Mattie Maher, a native of Kilkenny bought historic McSorley's Old Ale House from then owner Danny Kirwan. At that time Mattie was the Ale Houses' manager and keeping with the spirit and tradition of the storied establishment, he did nothing to change the integrity of America's oldest continuously operated public house.

In 1854, when McSorley's first opened its doors to patrons, it was one of 2400 operating saloons in the city of New York. 147 years later, it is the only one of the lot still serving up dark and light ale to the cities population and the myriad of tourists and visitors who flock to it's East 7th Street address.

Of course, McSorley's has always had a certain sporting vibe. It fielded a baseball team (the McSorley's Nine) for many years and photographs of Babe Ruth, Jack Dempsey and a host of thoroughbred racehorses adorn the walls.

A successful owner of race horses himself; Mattie Maher is no stranger to the sport of hurling. Before immigrating to New York, he played with Freshford and Conahy Shamrocks and was a member of the Kilkenny minor team in 1959. A serious accident put Mattie out of hurling for a considerable length of time but he had succeeded in reviving his playing career before he succumbed to the lure of the bright lights of New York.

Following his arrival in the Big Apple, Mattie played with the Waterford Club for a number and garnered New York Senior and Intermediate Hurling Championship medals.

Despite the distance involved, Maher is immensely proud of the fact that he has missed just one All-Ireland Hurling final since 1952. He has also attended numerous Leinster and Munster Hurling finals in that time.

"The only All-Ireland I missed since '52 was last year's between Kilkenny and Offaly," he says. "I had an operation that day and it wasn't until I came out of surgery that I heard that Kilkenny had won. Hopefully, I'll be back in Croke Park for this year's All-Ireland final."

Mattie rates the current Kilkenny team highly and feels that last year's All-Ireland win was as comprehensive as they come.

"After losing the previous two All-Irelands, I think Kilkenny showed great character to come back and win it last year. They lost an All-Ireland to Cork in 1999 that they should never have lost but recovered from that to win in great style against Offaly. They'll have a difficult job trying to retain the Liam McCarthy this year but if they can play with the same swagger and confidence as last year, it will take a very good team to stop them."

Maher is full of admiration for many of the present Kilkenny team but singles DJ Carey out for special praise. "DJ is the pulse of the whole team - he makes everyone else tick," Mattie claims. "He is an exceptional player and one of the best I've ever seen. It's an awful pity that he wasn't selected on the Team of the Millennium because he is a very special talent."

Down through the years, Mattie has had the pleasure of witnessing many fine hurlers in action. Two of his favorites were Kilkenny men - Denis Heslip and Paddy Moran.

"Denis was as good a hurler as I've ever seen. He was at his peak in the 1950s and 1960s and could literally do anything with a ball. Another hurler who I thought was gifted was Paddy Moran. Unfortunately, neither he or Denis Heslip got the recognition they deserved."

McSorley's Old Ale House is located at 15 East Seventh Street, New York City. (212) 473-9148

More reviews

[Happygal]

I'll have to venture up the 'Cat' county....as a penance *L* (I'll only do it for the Guinness, ye know *L*)

[OESY]

Here's another change: McSorley's dropped Liederkranz cheese from its selections. Too bad.

[wtc911]

Hit the place once, spent a lot more time at Pete's Tavern in Gramercy...a sentimental favorite. My Grandfather bent his elbow there during prohibition when it was a speak that you entered through the refrigerated room of the flower shop next door. My son hits it once in a while...the fourth generation to belly up to the same bar.

Hey WD, either place ever get any of your $$$?

[wtc911]

At least two Irish ginmills in Queens carry the family name...but I'm not related to either one....roots in a different county.

[wtc911]

A huge Jazz Fan? Stay out of NYC. There is no jazz left.

Now don't go ballistic anyone...I worked the long gone real Jazz clubs in the seventies. I was lucky enough to catch the dying gasps of 52nd Street where I worked the stick in the last two clubs...Jimmy Ryans Dixieland and an after hours hole in the wall in the basement of a brownstone across the street named Under the Clock. The whole block was razed and now boasts corporate monstrosities end to end. But it's ok, they hung a small sign reminding everyone it used to be Swing Street.

One night around 4:00 am Miles came into UTC and felt like playing. It was like partying with the Stones.

There were clubs uptown like Smalls before it became a tourist stop for Germans on the bus, Lenox Rendez-vous, but stay outta the Mr ? (pronounced as Mistah Q) two doors down and Max' Blue Angel up on 133.

My wife and I went out looking this past winter, the Village, East Village, uptown, ABC, nothing real, just a bunch of pseudos, mostly European or hippie-type grad students. I sit there, drink my single malt and bore my better half with lamentations of what is no more.

Try LA.

[brewer1516]

Your breakin my heart.
I've wanted to go to the Village Vanguard since I was a kid and heard an album with the Bill Evans Trio at the VV. He and the boys are playing while you can hear a little crowd noise in the background. You can actually hear coins drop on a table, maybe dropped by a waitress; man that album created a real mental picture of a small, smoky, late 50s jazz club.

I have Sonny Rollins and that Bill Evans album on CD now, but I would love to see real jazz played at the Vanguard.

Here is an album by a local (Indy) guy, Steve Allee.
The album is called New York in the Fifties. Based on a book by Dan Wakefield.

http://www.steveallee.com/nyfifties.htm

By the way. About Miles - Wow.

[wtc911]

I know the dream. I've been looking for a sophisticated unpretentious "Night Club" like in the old movies for years. The Supper Club tries but you can feel the effort. The Carlyle (sp) costs a fortune and there's no dancing, same with Oak Room. The closest we've come is a couple of Latin places.

You grow up with images of the world as it was at one time but by the time you get there it's gone, and nothing real to replace it.

[brewer1516]

Those places are still around. Like Kansas City and Chicago, Indianapolis has a long history of great jazz and blues.

Wes Montgomery, Cole Porter, Hoagy Carmichael, Buddy Guy, Leroy Carr and "Scrapper" Blackwell. were all from Indiana. Indy is crossroads between a lot of larger cities so a lot of the greats have passed through.

The Chatterbox is one of those small jazz clubs. I don't think they start music til about 11 or 12 so you tend to get the hardcore music lovers not the 20-somthing faux beer swillers.

There is also one of the country's best blues clubs, The Slipery Noodle. The Noodle is also one of the country's oldest, continually operating bars. Since 1850. This place is about half a block from my office so it's also a popular lunch spot.

http://www.slipperynoodleinn.com/Index2.cfm

[Benrand]

Make sure you try their pickles...those sandiwches are something.

Not I'M drooling...gaaaahaahaaa.

[Benrand]

Replace "not" with "now".

Gaaahaahaaa.

[petercooper]

Also - there's a cool little German beer house (12 German beers on tap) on Ave C & 7th St., Zum Schnieder, that opens up all the doors and windows when it's nice out. I think you send you were coming in May, just a thought. I go to d.b.a. to take advantage of the outdoor garden seating in the back.