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To: Gandalf_The_Gray

install one of these or a device like it.

http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/108-603-well-pump-parts/3-4-water-pressure-regulator—636483.aspx

our house has one. My shower use to have a heart beat. Now it’s steady and the demand water heater works just fine. Although I am rather sure it has a flow meter and can adjust on the fly to different flow rates.


48 posted on 11/26/2012 4:29:03 PM PST by cableguymn (The founding fathers would be shooting by now..)
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To: cableguymn
Are you on a well or city water? Well aware of the “reducing/relieving” valve, the one you are using is preset to 45 psi. My well pump cuts in at 20 and out at 35 psi. The gage and switch are in the basement and so the actual head at the pump is much higher (deep well).

I had thought to eliminate the existing pressure tank which is over forty years old and shows it's age. I'd let the down hole pump dump into a large gravity tank (plastic Farm & Fleet special??) with a simple float switch to maintain a supply. I'd then use a separate booster pump to charge a new pressure tank with a rolling diaphragm to prevent "water logging" from loss of pre-charge, thence to the R/R valve. Only problem is lack of space for the gravity tank. Why a gravity tank? We have lots of sediment, grit and very fine clay which would have a chance to settle out w/o a filter. Don't know if the rest of the plumbing would stand up to 45 psi plus an occasional water hammer shock, I really don't want to find out either.

Regards,
GtG

We have hydronic heat and have always had a R/R valve in the inlet line to the "boiler", it's set at about 15 psi.

80 posted on 11/26/2012 6:03:06 PM PST by Gandalf_The_Gray (I live in my own little world, I like it 'cuz they know me here.)
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