If you ever go back I’d recommend the week before Christmas and stay through Midnight Mass.
I had the whole city to myself because pilgrims don’t show up until the 23rd and a lot of Italians are already on holiday.
I intend to. I went with my 9 yr old granddaughter and she cried the day we left, said she belonged in Roma.
Of course everyone thought we were Italian.
Thanks for the suggestion, might be a great Christmas present for everyone.