Skip to comments.Home Safe (Vanity)
Posted on 06/08/2012 11:31:50 AM PDT by Lima_Two_Zero_Alpha
I am trying to buy a good home safe. My wife wants a combination lock and I want a key-board (push button) safe. Does anyone know of any advantage of one over the other? Also,what is the best brand.
Sorry for the vanity but I am desperate to get away from the banks.
>> I am desperate to get away from the banks.
You can store your valuables at my place. No charge.
combination would be my choice
First, don’t shop when you’re drunk.........
Looking at the post title, I’m thinking you may be better off with a key lock ;)
Get one with a S&G combo lock, they last forever.
Need an Asfe bump!
For valuables I would go with combination floor safe. For hand gun I would go with push button safe.
Little story about keypad lock safes. Was on our way to Arkansas and stopped at a Comfort Inn. Apparently you had to pay extra to use the safe which we didn’t. Went to get dinner and came back and all our valuables were put in the safe. I asked Hubby how did you do that? He said....look at it.
All you had to do was look at the keypad and could tell which numbers were always pushed. rofl
Here ya go Lima. Slings and Arrors just provided a link to all you should ever need to know about Asfes!
Most electronic locking safes also have a key override.
Best of both worlds.
I live to serve.
Not big enough.
I would suggest also studying a bit on where you place the safe in your house as well. I would suggest something like a false wall in the back of a coat closet, laundry room, hidden place between floors, etc. Thieves will go to three places to look for valuables; master bedroom, home office, kitchen drawers ( for keys.)Generally, they will be in and out in under 10 minutes.
Are you calling my asfe big? Thems fightin’ words!
in the old days, they would put goods in a jar or can and pull a fence post and put it in under it
how much safe can you handle, they snatch ATM’s out like cattle thieves
Buy a drop safe for the basement floor and keep it under a sturdy piece of furniture.
Buy another wall or floor bolted safe and keep some small amount of cash/valuables in it.
The latter is for the time that the home invaders are holding a gun to your wife/daughter’s head and demanding you open the safe and give them your valuables.
It’s not the lock, its the overall construction. Most home safes are designed for fire resistance more than burglary resistance. Even most bank vaults today don’t have more than about an R4 burglary rating. They rely on the alarm systems, which are a lot harder to beat than the physical safe.
I have gotten into weak safes in five minutes flat with an angle grinder. Time becomes immaterial once the burglar gets it out of the premises. That’s why floor safes used to be so popular, they are imbedded in concrete.
Look for mass, plate steel construction, preferably 1/8 inch or better (don’t buy anything-guage), fully welded tubular door frame (to resist peeling), all-round locking bolts, collapsing lock mechanism.
Above all, SECRECY! Some of these safes have beautiful graphics and paint jobs. Resist the temptation to show it off. Anchor it well into the structure. Pay for a first class alarm system. Know if there will be a timely armed response to the alarm (most jurisdictions these days regard residential burlgary alarms as a nuisance and a very low priority call). Arm yourself - if word gets out, the bad guys may not bother to break into the safe. They’ll invade your house at 3:00 AM and put a gun to your kid’s head and make YOU open it.
All that having been said, you are still taking an awful chance if you keep your life savings in it. Most often, in my experience the safe burglary is committed by, instigated by or facilitated by a family member or friend.
Just my two cents from a lifetime in LE.
>> Buy TWO safes &etc
Not a bad idea! Thanks.
Around here there have been a rash of home invasions. The first thing the perps have been asking is “Where’s the safe?” Not clear if they’re hitting places they *know* have safes, or if it’s just a robber’s strategem.
Mrs. Tick and I have been kicking around how we’d answer that question if it were put to us. Assuming we didn’t get a chance to blow them away.
Do a search for “hidden door” and consider some home improvement. It’s fun; it’ll take your mind off safes and put it on vaults.
Combination safe and make sure you BOLT it to the floor , preferrable to the concrete floor in the basement.
There was a show TV where two former buglars would break into your house. They always brought a hand truck with them to move a safe. They said the biggest mistake people make is to not bolt them to the floor, preferrably concrete in the basement. Plus the basement will not get as hot in a fire and the safe is more likely to survive.
Freeper need a safe? Find a Liberty safe dealer in your area.
I knew a guy who kept the cash from his corner store in a coffee can on the shelf at night. He left the cash register empty and open. I do not think he had a safe.
A push button lock will show a shine over the buttons that are pressed most often. Someone can figure out the combination in a short time.
A combination lock takes longer to open and is subject to misdialing when you are trying to hurry.
There ya go, giving away ‘state’ secrets again. ;>)
Check some of the gun forums for advice; there have been problems with the electronic keypad locks. The lock mechanisms are pretty much the same regardless of the size of the safe.
Electronic Keypad vs convential dial
The electronic keypad is faster in an emergency. The numbers are big and easier to see for elderly of those with poor vision.
It is easier to manipulate if you shake or have arthritis.
You have to change the batteries annually that power the electronics. If you forget, then you may get locked out of your safe and need a locksmith to open it. I think newer safes have external battery leads so you can take a battery and still get into your safe.
Of course, if your battery dies when you haven’t used it in a while and you don’t have a spare on hand, then you have to go to the store and get one. That may or may not be fine. Maybe OK for a home money/jewelry safe, but I would not want to be locked out of a gun safe when I needed to get in.
Electronics can go bad over time and the lock suddenly doesn’t work, for example a loose wire or broken battery terminal. So there is a higher failure rate with electronic keypad locks.
Dial safes are more foolproof with a lower failure rate and you can’t get locked out unless you forget your combination. They are slower and more complicated to activate so if you haven’t done it in a while, it can be frustrating. If your memory is really bad, you may lose track of how many spins you did in each direction.
FWIW, I recommend that you program the lock with your own custom numbers, even if you need a locksmith to do it. If you are buying a new safe with a dial, I am sure the selling company will be happy to program the dial with your custom numbers.
It is FAR FAR easier to remember numbers near and dear to you than a set of random meaningless numbers. Shoot, you can pick birthdays, favorite cartridge caliber, favorite month of the year, shoe size, dress size, TV channel. It doesn’t matter. But the fact you chose the numbers from something important makes it far easier to remember and you will be less likely to leave them written on paper somewhere the burglar can find it.
Keep it simple.
Do you trust an electronic lock system powered by a battery to never have a problem or go bad?
I can’t reall anything electronic we have ever had that was trustworthy or didn’t eventually fail.
We’re getting ready to toss out our second $1,200 refrigerator because the electronics on both kept going haywire.
If someone still manufactured one with an 1980’s technology without all the electronics, dampers, fans, thermisters, etc. I would buy it.
If I was buying a safe of any type I would opt for the one without electronics.
Just one man’s opinion.....
Somewhere on the net there must be a larger ASFE graphic.
Don’t get “sentry safe” brand as the door doesn’t close well.
Push button has faster access.
I prefer combo safes.
You might check price difference for fire proof safe.
Best if you can locate it so you can drill a hole in concrete, to bolt the safe to the floor or basement wall.
Make sure all family members know to keep their mouths shut about having the safe.
Understand that most safes aren’t going to stop a thief who has any real amount of time in the premises, especially if he comes prepared. Most important rule: NOBODY knows you have a safe.
“You have to change the batteries annually that power the electronics. If you forget, then you may get locked out of your safe and need a locksmith to open it. “
That’s not true. You either replace the batteries and it operates normally or on some models you take off the pushbutton pad and use a key. I never heard of anyone needing a locksmith because the batteries went dead. I suppose it could happen if they lost the instructions on how to replace batteries, but usually it is obvious.
“Dial safes are more foolproof with a lower failure rate and you cant get locked out unless you forget your combination.”
That’s not true either. Combo locks will get sticky over time (especially if they aren’t used often) and you can get locked out until it can get serviced. Usually though you have plenty of warning that it needs service when you have to redial multiple times. If you have the safe in an unheated space, you might notice the dial beginning to stick when the temperatures drop.
The big deal is to get one thick enough and Bolt it to the FLOOR! Combination lock works fine, is very simple and impervious to EMP. You'll need batteries probably for a digital. Most Mail Order companies provide in home delivery via moving companies. AG English is a personal friend of mine and has been in the business for 30 years. I can vouch for them. http://www.agenglish.com/
There is a simple test for this. Purchase a pad lock and learn the combination - you can even use your gym lock or your kids school lock.
Next, find a phone with a key pad.
Then turn out the lights to simulate night time, and give yourself 15 seconds to open the lock or punch in a 4 digit number.
Which ever one you can do faster and more consistantly .... that is your choice.
Thanks for clearing that up.
I have two safes. One is a small “fireproof” safe for valuable papers. The other is a gun safe. Both are key-locked.
I used to have a combination lock safe for the valuable papers. The combination lock was tricky to get to work, and got worse with time. I finally got rid of it.
I strongly recommend the key lock.
An analog lock (tumbler combination) is slower to operate and you’ll have to use the combination that is set by the factory and can only be changed by a trained locksmith.
A digital lock (push button combination) can be accessed very fast and you can change the combination any time you desire in just a few seconds. They can have thousands of different combinations and are very hard to crack.
I bought a nice 40 gun gun safe last year (Cannon Patriot) and it is like Ft. Knox.
If you are storing important papers and/or cash it is vital that you have a safe with as high a UL fire rating as you can afford. If you are not storing guns in your safe, I'd lean towards the combination lock over the electronic. If you choose to go electronic, go with the fingerprint (biometric) rather then the push button (more secure code).
PS Do not put your safe on display in the front room. They can't steal what they cant see!
Yes to the slower operation, no to the factory set combination only. It takes about five minutes with a screwdriver to change if you have the slightest mechanical aptitude. If you do change it try to lock/unlock it several times without closing the door just to be sure that everything is working.
Hint, when selecting a new combination do NOT pick your phone number, zip code, house number, birthday. DO pick something that you will never forget like your first girlfriend's phone number...