I thought this article was about bleach.
(for you 1990-1996 Honda owners, change your Tranny fluid every 75,000 miles, Acura fluid only. No need to flush, just drain a few quarts and replenish)
But, I heard that if you don’t flush your brake fluid every 32,751 miles, the Severkel valves on the torque extraction unit will get air-locked and cause premature lug nut failure...
...and reduced fuel mileage.
I never flush brake systems - ever.
But, if I notice that the DOT3 or 4 brake fluid in a particular master-cylinder reservoir has started to turn dark-colored (which is one indication that it is saturated with moisture) I will use a turkey baster to suck the ‘spent’ fluid from the reservoir, and then refill it with new fluid.
It seems to work to keep my brake systems operating well, but it does make our roasted turkeys taste funny.
The dealer stresses the main thing to keep up with on this engine is oil and air filters. If you neglect the oil, you put the turbo and injectors at risk as they are oil cooled. If you neglect the air filter, dirt can bypass it, 'sandblast' the turbo blades, which fail and chunk metal bits into the engine, causing cylinder wall and ring damage.
Other than that, since I pull a trailer, I change the transmission fluid per Ford's recommendation (the auto trans holds up better than the manual - Ford dropped the manual in 2004 I think).
I am sitting at 255k+ miles now...no problems and still running very strong; no smoke, doesn't burn oil, etc. The dealer I use has multiple customers with 500k+ miles on this version of the super duty.
On a related topic, when it comes to monitoring the dipsticks in D.C., regular “power flushing” is recommended, if not mandatory ....
Make sure the mechanic checks the tension on the hydrophramic sprocket and tops off the blinker fluid. A must!
By the first sentence, I can see he is not as smart as he thinks. Bias ply are different than radial tires. Either can be 2 ply, 4 ply, 6 ply, 8 ply, 10 ply, etc. Bias refers to the design, not the number of plies.
Pure BS. The cap on the brake fluid reservoir has a breather hole (hint: brake pads wear down over time). Any competent shop can do a 'boiling point' test on the brake fluid in no time flat and tell you when it's time to change it. And you should (~2 year interval). Moisture in the brake fluid will also in time corrode the brake cylinders - $$$.
bookmark
Awright...my two cents on this...
If you’ve changed the ATF regularly on your vehicle throughout it’s life, you should probably continue to do that.
If you haven’t, what happens is, the ATF tends to lose some of its “lubricity”, i.e., ability to prevent friction. As friction wears parts, it is possible to get some slippage in the transmission, except for one thing: the wear causes small particles of metal in the transmission. These particles actually provide friction for the various parts to engage properly. If you change/flush the trans, you no longer have those particles, and the trans can slip. Not only that, the newer fluid can dislodge deposits and cause them to lodge in places where they can cause problems.
http://www.trustmymechanic.com/transslip.html
http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2000-03-12/travel/0003120058_1_transmission-fluid-atf-oxidation
As for synthetic motor oil, it is absolutely essential in a turbocharged car to prevent “coking” of the oil inside the turbocharger when you turn the car off. Temps inside the turbo, especially if it is not water-cooled, can get high enough to cause conventional oil to break down and lose its viscosity, and create deposits in the turbocharger itself. This can lead to turbocharger failure. Synthetic oil is more resistant to coking, and therefore, is better for the longevity of your turbocharger.
http://www.custom-car.us/turbo/lubrication.aspx
The only good advice in this story is to follow the manufacturer’s recommendation in the owner’s manual. He’s dead wrong about brake fluid. Water actually migrates through the rubber hoses at each wheel. The brake fluid in the wheel cylinders gains about 1 percent per year water. This causes corrosion and significantly lowers the boiling point. Pure DOT3 brake fluid boils at about 400 degrees F. A few percent water drops that to near 212. You can loose braking on mountain grades with that.