I can’t think of a way to do it that does involve putting an ammeter in series with the battery and pulling fuses one at a time. But that’s because I’m just a dumb engineer. Probably a real car guy will show up with a much easier method.
Good idea!
She may have invertently turned on a courtesy light of some kind. Could be the starting solenoid? Is it not turning at all? Clicking? what?
That’s pretty much the long & short of it, although if the regulator circuitry in an alternator goes TU it can short out and there’s only a fusible link (no fuse).
Ain’t carz fun?
If I follow, wouldn't leaving his voltmeter in series and pulling fuses eventually get him there?
That is my next option
That’s what I would do too. Check current draw. Realize that there is some drain 24/7 on it, such as the computer, clock, radio station memory, etc. Also check the alternator for it’s charging voltage and disconnect the the alternator when you pull one fuse at a time. A bad diode can cause a draw on the battery.
Don't need an Ampmeter.
just touch/scrape the wire on the battery terminal and see the spark....pull out one fuse at a time to locate the circuit.
If that doesn't work there is a short in the wiring somewhere..
Happened to me...eventually found a short in the wire leading to the rear upper cab light.
You might be able to hook the meter up to your battery and pull one fuse at a time and see where the problem is if you have an understanding of that kind of thing. Assuming the short is on the other side of the fuse block.
Two people it can go pretty quick.
It could be wet tail or headlights or a bad brake light switch. Those are easy to check first.
That’s the only way TO do it.
You're no dummy. Absent alot of diagnostic tools, that's the best and fastest way to find the problem.
I had that once a while ago - and I did what was suggested here. Put an ammeter in series with battery and pulled out fuses. Eventually, when I pulled out the fuse that contained the clock (mechanical clock, back then) the drain was gone. Then I disconnected the clock and put the fuse back. Drain was still gone. Never had a problem again, nor a clock again, for that matter.
In the case of newer cars, if you disconnect the battery terminals, the main computer will not give a green light if you get it emission-tested, until it completes the prescribed driving cycle needed for it to reset. Eventually, during normal driving, you’ll get that task done by default. If you don’t have to get the vehicle emissions-tested then it’s not an issue. If you do, then make sure you are still a few months away from that test before disconnecting the battery.
Also, there are devices made just for that - they plug into the lighter socket, have a small battery, and keep the computer alive while the battery is disconnected, such as these:
Just be sure to read the instructions - you may have to apply external power to the device while the battery is being disconnected, depending on the type you get.