Skip to comments.Help with Camera selection for sports photograph (Vanity)
Posted on 01/06/2011 8:36:09 PM PST by finish9
I am a parent of a 6th grader who wants to take photographs of kids playing indoor basketball and volleyball. I am looking for a camera which will take indoor shots with good white balance and freeze action for these sports. I do not want to go to a DSLR with humongous lens. I do not need professional quality, but also don't want blurry snapshots. I haven't found any point and shoot cameras which will do this; can anyone recommend something perhaps between that and a DSLR? I think that the shutter speed needs to be about 1/300th; what would I require for lens aperture? Any recommendations or help would be appreciated.
I am a Professional Photographer and what you are asking for is impossible with the restrictions that you are imposing on yourself.
If you need help with a DSLR selection and lenses and how to do indoor sports photography, let me know.
My camera is a Panasonic DMC FZ28 it is already outdated but a great digital camera....
Leica S2 37.5 MP and only $27,995.00. I bet the kid will become the photographer for the school paper with that camera. Children deserve the best.
Sorry, you really need an SLR.
Get a basic SLR like one of the Canon Digital Rebels or the Nikon D3100 or D5000, then get a fast, short telephoto like an 85mm F1.8. Fast lenses and short shutter lag make the difference.
You don’t need to go high-end, but you do need a fast lens that lets in a lot of light. All the superzoom all in one cameras have very slow lenses at the long end of the zoom range. These don’t work for indoor sports.
This is the micro 4/3 form factor DSLR. You can get it for $440 at B&H Photo, very reputable shop, by the way.
Also shoots 720p HD video.
It comes with a telephoto lens, but you will also want to get this “pancake” telephoto lens.
With a pancake lens, it will fit in your shirt pocket! The lens has an f/1.7 rating for excellent light sensitivity.
If you wait until May, you can get the EPL-2
If you just want a point-and-shoot, I can recommend the Nikon CoolPix s8100
Oh, the Nikon CoolPix s8100 point-and-shoot also shoots 1080p HD video.
B&H sells them for $299, but I picked one up for $249.
My wife does photography professionally and loves her Canon 7D, but then you stated that you don’t want a digital camera, so that’s down the drain. (Also, the 7D is on the expensive side).
The best advice I would give you is get a really good flash. The problem with most indoor sports pictures is the delay in waiting for the right light conditions. We had a used Canon before the 7D, and we bought a good ($350) flash for indoor sports pictures. It made all the difference in the world.
As a side note, we were taking mainly Wrestling pictures where the action changes very quickly and you need a good flash to catch the action.
In short, if you go cheap, you get cheap results.
Wait for the Nikon 5100 DSLR. it should be out in a few months.
I agree you need an SLR although even the cheapest one out now will do. For a lens, try an 80-200mm f2.8 and one of the cheap 50mm f1.8 lenses. If you can afford it get the f1.4 model.
If money is tight, try one of the Tamron or Sigma models.
I guess one of the new EVF models such as Olympus which take interchangeable lenses would work too but I am not familiar with them.
I bought a Panasonic Lumix ZS7 last summer, 12megapixel resolution. It has, in 35mm equivalence terms, a 25-300mm zoom lens from Leica, some kinda image stabilization and will also take (some) HD video at the push of a single button. It’s also pretty small.
I love it !
What would you recommend for a camera that's maybe one step up from this? I'd like to get something along the same vein, but maybe just a little bit upgraded.
Woops, didn’t catch the indoor requirement, sorry.
Hi...I love photography and bought a Nikon D90 with several lenses and am trying to take great shots at construction site. I love my photos (automatic Mode ;) 35mm lens) but with the zoom lens I find I lose quality (resolution) in my photos.. I have used a tripod and automatic settings—should I always use a tripod when I use the big lens?
Will I always lose sharpness when using zoom? ..does that make sense to you? It has been very overcast and getting darker being winter here, maybe the lighting is hurting the sharpness. I am not that great with a camera yet, but trying.....Thanks! Sue
Sony Alpha A230L Black 10MP Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm Standard Zoom lens, 2.7" Clear Photo LCD Plus Display, Super SteadyShot Image Stabilization, HDMI Output and On-Screen Help Guide - from Walmart
You will eventually want a 18 - 200 lens as well.
That is a beautiful photograph!!!
The Canon G-series and probably some other compact digital cameras have the hotshoe on top which can mount the same flashes that are used on the SLRs.
Anything wrong with the D7000?
The D90 has the same sensor as the D300 and has pretty good higher ISO capabilities.
If you expose the picture correctly and use some noise reduction software, your should be able to shoot at ISO 1600 and get good shots. If you even get a picture that you really like but has more noise than you would like, covert it to B&W and notice how the noise adds a nice grain look to you pictures and makes then very usable.
When shooting on a tripod you can bring down the ISO and let the camera expose for you with a longer shutter speed. Might want to use a timer so that you don’t bump/move the camera when pushing on the shutter.
Loose sharpness when using a zoom? Well....yes and No. As a general rule Prime Lenses will give you better results. Even inexpensive (Kit Lenses) have a sweet spot and can still take great pictures.
Much more to talk about......
If you want to sharpen your shots, first stop using auto mode. Try appeture mode and start with a setting of around f11.
For the zooms, the best thing for sharpening your shots, without a tripod, is to get a lens with VR II.
Get a big one.
>I am a Professional Photographer and what you are asking for is impossible with the restrictions that you are imposing on yourself.<
Amen to that! Not to mention it’s not the DSLR that’s the most important consideration in indoor sports photography, it’s the lenses.
Zooms are getting good enough now that you will not notice a difference, that is assuming it is a narrow range zoom. No more than 3 to 1 Zoom range and a name brand maker will result in images for all practical purposes that will equal single focal length lenses.
The 18-200 or 28-300 are very handy but they are invariably slow (small maximum aperture) and image quality is definitely not up to par. I would not recommend them at all for your purposes.
Someone mentioned the 85mm f1.8 and with cameras which use a smaller sensor which effectively gives you a 1.5x or 1.6x multiplier effect it would be about perfect.
Do not try to use any lens with less than an f2.8 aperture.
I feel this suits my needs pretty well, but sometimes I wish I could capture something and just don’t have the know how or equipment. I’ll have to look up the new generation and maybe give this one to my son.
Very nice—I like it!
It's a fantastic camera. It's probably a bit sophisticated for people coming directly from a point & shoot camera. The d3000 or d5000 is more than enough camera for many folks.
I love my d7000. I had a heck of a time finding one, but finally lucked into one this past weekend. Here is a shot I took with it:
But the price of entry is pretty high.
My wife and I do a good bit of wildlife photography. We just went to Costa Rica and got shots of birds that the folks with the DSLR couldn't even get the camera ready.
As far as response time the newer P&S have great burst modes. You can snap off 2-10 shots in a second. That will help you get the shot better than trying to time it.
Her late \st camera is an Olympus with a 35X zoom lens. But her previous camera is a Lumix. I think it is a little better camera. So I would seriously look at this one:
At $300 it is less than the flash for some of the cameras listed above. If you try it and don't like it (for indoor sports) you will still find it a great all around camera and then you can look at plunking down the price of a decent motor scooter for one of the DSLRs they are talking about.
It is landing on my century plant that just flowered and now is a mess in the backyard..
Here is a shot taken with our older lumix (18X zoom).
Dang I can’t figure out how to post the picture. but it is the top one in the article. Taken from a moving boat.
Problem is, finish9's kids want to shoot sports, so you can't use slow shutter speeds. What's worse, they're talking about indoor sports. And even though they're indoor, they'll still need something on the order of 100 mm for most shots (35mm film equivalent focal length).
No substitute for big aperture and sensitive (high ISO) sensor, unfortunately. Even image stabilization and a tripod will be of marginal use. The only other thing that could help, as another poster has said, is a good flash, at least for subjects closer than about 40 feet.
Any way you cut it, it sounds like $$$ to me.
I know......But another poster on here asked a question and i was answering that.
My late Father shot a lot of sports for newspapers back in the 1940s and ‘50s. He always used a 4X5 Speed Graphic.
I know that using the auto mode is very amaturish....l will try the appeture mode—got some time to experiment...and do want to change depth of field...
I do have a vibration reduction — VR—but don’t think it is a II. I always have that on, no matter which lens.
Thanks for info... Sue
Very beautiful detail. Wow!
Sony Alpha 100 DSLR, built-in flash and 18-200mm lens.
“When shooting on a tripod you can bring down the ISO and let the camera expose for you with a longer shutter speed. Might want to use a timer so that you dont bump/move the camera when pushing on the shutter.”
I OWE YOU A BEER!
Dang, I miss my dogs.
Dang, I miss my dogs.
I can see why you don’t want to shake that shutter!
Thanks for info. I will try using the timer—I forgot about that trick...I think it is me moving the camera. I have gotten some very nice photos so far, but I am also ruining some. They just are not in sharp focus. I try to use the Prime lens the most but on tall buildings and when I am so far away, I can’t. I have been using the auto focus....I think I will experiment with manual controls. I do have time but will have to know what I am doing :( .
I just got a new MAC with photoshop, etc. I will have tons of fun I am sure messing around with my photos. It is nice to start out with nearly perfect ones though. I do like grainier pictures in some instances though, esp. in construction shots.
I shutter to think!
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