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To: KoRn

Been a gunsmith for decades and there is no general rule. Some makes and models will not be damaged and others will the first time time you do it. If you ask about specific models, I will be happy to let you know whether or not they are OK to dry fire.
In general, there is no need to remove tension on a hammer spring by dry firing it. In my experience, it takes many years for a spring to take a set from being compressed and on those guns which may be damaded by dry firing, the spring you are attempting to save costs a fraction of the damage caused by dry firing.


36 posted on 05/10/2011 9:00:54 PM PDT by 'smith
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To: 'smith

With you being an experienced Gunsmith and asking for specific models, I’ll go ahead an lay out a list of my limited arsenal:

Saiga 12 - 12 Gauge Semiauto (factory, as of right now /cry )

PTR91 - 7.62x51 (.308 Win - Good for long distance calls, but enough of this one, and my shoulder hates me)

DPMS AR15 - 5.56 (most fun gun to shoot)

HK USP45 Tactical - 45ACP (kicks ass!)

Beretta 92FS - 9mm (best all around)

Bersa Semiauto - .380 (not sure with the specifics on this one, as it’s my wife’s

Springfield Armory XD40 - .40ACP (what I reach for in home defense)

Mossberg 500 - 12 Gauge (never fails)

Ruger LCR - .357 Mag (can carry it literally anywhere)

There’s still a couple of rifles I’d like to add on to what I have. My objective is to have a well rounded collection where I’d have a ‘tool’ for any scenario that may arise if the S ever HTF. I’d still like to get a good bolt gun, in a .300 Win Mag or 30-06. I’d also like to get a good semi auto .22 rifle. Of course, if I ever get the disposable income to drop several grand on a rifle, I’d be delighted to get a hold of a Barrett .50 cal before .gov bans them.

Thanks for your help!


45 posted on 05/10/2011 9:57:29 PM PDT by KoRn (Department of Homeland Security, Certified - "Right Wing Extremist")
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