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To: ErnBatavia
I'm into my second round of tomatoes (pulled first in January here in LA county).
But, I've always just let them grow as they want...I've been told to pinch off the 'suckers' to limit unnecessary vines and such.

Sadly, I forgot how to identify a sucker from any other growth.

Can anyone out there set me straight?

Also harvesting radish, onion, several type peppers, and turnips while Cukes and green beans develop.

20 posted on 04/06/2012 9:47:49 AM PDT by norton (I will transmit this information to Vladimir.)
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To: norton
I only pinch the suckers on my tomatoes until they have a really strong stem system, usually two or three sets of blooms up, then I let them go wild.

There are really 2 different schools of thought on the pinching of suckers; one that insists it must be done and those that don't. lol

It used to be that the oldtimers swore you HAD to pinch suckers to get the best fruit and with some open pollinated varieties, that may still be true. I have grown tomatoes both ways, and have some to the conclusion that it isn't necessary.

The size of the fruit may be slightly larger on pruned tomato plants, that depends more on the fertility of your soil than the pruning. There is no doubt that you will grow more fruit if you do not prune heavily.

The website for Bonnie Plants, probably the largest plant supplier in the South at least, indicates that the plants they sell do not require pinching. It is really a matter of personal preference. Do what works for you.

21 posted on 04/06/2012 12:43:36 PM PDT by JustaDumbBlonde (Don't wish doom on your enemies ... plan it.)
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