VANITY: Freeper input invited re purchase of new (used) work truck

Vanity ^ | 10-13-2012 | Vanity

[OKSooner]

Nowhere on earth better for well-informed input, so this is the deal...

My valiant old 1993 F250, 4.9l, is blowing oil out the main seal and is being expected to perform way past its limits pulling my big (17') landscape trailer.

So, I'm trying to do some diligence on a new (used) truck. Here's what I'm thinking...

Gotta be under $10k, even less if possible. Don't mind if it's ugly so long as it works.

If 3/4 ton, 4wd is preferred. (A risky proposition, I know, but I gotta stay within certain parameters.) If 1 ton, rwd is okay.

Need to get some kinda gas mileage, considering the application. What that means to me is no fat block gassers, i.e. Ford 460, Dodge V10, et al... unless I can steal one...

Which takes us to the diesels... My impression is that the Cummins diesel is the M1 rifle of the diesel truck world. An object made by man and thus fallible, but the best bet overall.

The many different diesels that Ford has offered since I test drove a 7.3l diesel back in 1979 or whenever... I've just heard and read some different things that make me leery of them.

I don't know much about diesels except they don't have spark plugs, they ignite by compression, they burn diesel fuel, and they're often turbocharged. That's it. :)

The GM/Chevy diesels, I know little about and have less interest. (They're called duramax or something like that, aren't they? Not that it really matters.)

So - who has an opinion about a direction to look in for a reliable truck with good traction to pull my landscape trailer around town and UPHILL AT THE LEAF DUMP, and also to drive around in the snow?

Just as a starting point, I've spied the following:

1998 Dodge 3500, rwd, 240k miles, cummins diesel, some kinda redneck exhaust pipe sticking up behind the cab on the passenger side, no other known modifications. Looks like it's been taken care of other than the stupid pipe up behind the cab.

1998 Dodge 3500, 4wd, 150k miles, 5.9l v8 gasser, in good shape the best I can tell.

[Kirkwood]

Getting stuck is driver error. You can get stuck with any vehicle if you aren’t paying attention to conditions.

[factoryrat]

Mid 90’s Dodge with a 5.9L Cummins, or the same vintage F series Ford with a 302 or 351W engine. Both are durable, cheap to fix, and get decent mileage. Avoid the Fords with the modular engines (4.6L, 5.4L), they are fuel pigs.

[notpoliticallycorewrecked]

I just put a crate engine in mine just a few weeks ago. The trans was rebuilt a year ago.

Total cost for engine and install with new everything(but starter) up front include radiator, hoses, belts,etc costs $5,500. The trans rebuild was 2,500 for a super trans (racing trans). (I padded those prices since my hubby has connections.

Even with padded prices you are sitting at 8, well below your cost comfort zone.

[PMAS]

Here a national auction site that runs auctions, search by your state, in some states you need a dealer broker or something - depends which state you are in.

Www.copart.com

[tacticalogic]

Generally, look for a newer vehicle with unusually high mileage and no evidence of substantial wear or replacement of brake rotors.

[wizr]

A friend of mine has a late Ford diesel truck. Had troubles with the clutch/tranny, so he took it to the dealer. Shortly after getting it back it had to go back to the dealer, because of poor workmanship.

Now, he is looking for a Dodge diesel truck.

My wife has an ‘04 Dakota (we traded in her ‘94 Ram for it). Have had few problems mechanically. I don’t care for Dodge’s cheap (plastic) interiors, but the drive trains on the larger/commercial type vehicles are bulletproof, imho.

[TalBlack]

Whatever you do FIGURE OUT WHAT IS WRONG WITH WHAT YOU ARE BUYING! People 99% of the time DO NOT sell perfectly good vehicles, rather, they DUMP failing vehicles on the ignorant.

Back on ‘04 when I was starting up a new business I needed a fairly reliable pickup. I settled on a ‘97 1500 RAM because I was able to figure out what was wrong with it. It had 81000 miles, one owner (who testified to it's worthiness)But in examining the truck I sussed out that it had a slow leak in the AC, a dying water pump, and a failing fuel pump. The fuel pump was the thing that probably made him want to dump it on an unsuspecting buyer for a decent down payment on a new truck. Beware!

[TalBlack]

Oh yeah, I ended up getting 5 years and 70000 miles out of the truck which I used to tow a 3000lb compresser and 1000 lbs of tools and gear in the bed.

[tiki]

Yes, but if you have the right vehicle you can get unstuck.

[bgill]

I’m partial to older Chevy Silverados. They seem to do the job and are reliable.

[American Constitutionalist]

Have you tried to price a good used engine for your truck ? or is the body of the truck not worth putting another engine in it ?

[American Constitutionalist]

Found a FORD 300 CID 4.9L L6 Premium re-manufactured long block for $ 1,200 with a 5 year warentee.

If you can rent or buy a heavy duty engine hoist all you would have to do is put the old oil pan, new oil pan gasket on the remanufactured engine, and hopefully the intake is not warped place it on the new engine, value covers and new gaskets.
It would be almost like a new truck again... at least the engine will last you another 10-15 years.
Rebuilt cylinder heads would run you between $ 150 to $ 300 ... so rebuilt heads would be around $ 600-700.
You might be able to do this for around $ 2500- $ 3000. or less depending if you can do it yourself.
If you do get a rebuilt engine, take the heads to a machine shop and see if they can be machined and used again.
The heads have to be shaved and properly torqued down.

[American Constitutionalist]

Trailer got plywood in it ? use aluminum for the sides.

[American Constitutionalist]

Sometimes a used vehicle can be a good deal or a nightmare... to many unknowns even if it has been inspected.

[American Constitutionalist]

If you do decide to buy a used truck check and make sure the heads have not cracked, or a blown head gasket, cracked block, bad gaskets between the head, engine, and intake.
A bad head, bad head gasket will have to tall tail sign of white smoke coming out of the tail pipe.
Worn oil rings will have the tall tail sign of blueish smoke coming out of the tail pipe while your acceleration.
Pull the dip stick and look at it, even smell it...
Does it smell like gasoline ? you have fuel leaking into the engine from somewhere.
Smell of steam ? you got either water or coolant getting into your engine.
Oil is either a Carmel clean looking color, or black from wear.
One way of checking if coolant has entered the cylinder and ran for a extended period of time without the engine being ruined is take the oil cap off the valve over and look inside the valve cover.
Take a small flash light shine it on the inside of the valve cover.
If you see anything that looks like: light brown to tan color coffee TOFO, or looks like brown hand ( AUTO ) cleaner, walk away.... don't buy the truck.
While you at it take your finger and put your finger on the upper inside of the oil filler cap hole and rub your finger on the under side.
If you see anything that looks like coolant, or brown to light tan color that looks like coffee TOFO or brown hand ( AUTO ) cleaner, don't buy the truck or car.
You are saving yourself a lot of heartache, trouble, and lost money.
Yeah, the seller could have had coolant running in the engine and could have stopped it ( Just in time ) and still could have changed the oil to just to get rid of the car or truck.
Check the dip stick also... same thing.... if the tip of the dip stick has stuff on it that looks like brown to tan color coffee TOFO, Brown to tan color AUTO hand cleaner, walk away from the deal...

[American Constitutionalist]

Unless the truck has already been inspected in the price it's being sold,, remember ? getting a vehicle inspected sometimes costs you more than what you were originally expecting to put in it to get it inspected.
The shop tells you it needs all new rotors and brakes.. CHA CHING.... The electrical system needs fixing.. CHA GHING.
Your old truck is already been inspected ?
Does your transmission bolt up to a larger engine ? ask a few mechanics and ask them if a larger engine can be put in it... it's a 1993 ? I don't think you have to worry to much about Emissions and OBDI and OBD2.
If the larger engine bolts up to your transmission, and have no problems hooking it up to your exhaust, cooling, no interference with the steering,, then go with a rebuilt engine that is larger.
Make sure your transmission is rated for that power range.

[American Constitutionalist]

Sorry about this post,, won't need new cylinder heads if it's a long block.

If you or some friend can do it cheap.... then $ 1,200 ain't to bad,, but, keep shopping around for the best deal.
Also remember ? some re-mo engine sellers won't honor warranties unless they are done at a approved or certified shops.