I was kayak surfing Mavericks in 14 foot seas, coming 10 seconds apart. No one else around that day. Got caught in the curl and had to bail out. My boat actually sank and I had to swim in. It’s tricky because the waves break on rocks, not a nice sandy beach. Lined up my approach and a wave tossed me between and behind a couple large rock outcroppings. Once I got behind the rocks, they broke up the waves enough for me to get out without getting crushed.
Fitzgerald Marin Preserve is just north of Mavericks, I wonder if you could have swam ashore there.
I’m impressed!
Pretty scary place when the surf comes up.