Day 1.
Reached the base camp. A smashing morning. 4 Sahibs and 18 Sherpas left at 7.45. Took numerous photos – majestic legs, indeed. Everyone feeling first class. Put in lot of flags. Commenced snowing heavily at 2pm and still going strong at 6.30pm. John reports very heavy snow at the knee. Looks like a terrible grind tomorrow up to the knee.
Day 2.
Party of Sherpas led by Charles and Mike set off up the ankle. Charles was ill and returned. Remainder continued on up to the top of the ankle where changed loads. Wilf and George had gone on up to calf and did a short reconnaissance above. Sherpas packed loads up to the calf. Wilf then returned with Sherpas and Mike stayed with George and Tenzing.
Day 3.
Three of the hardier Sherpas led by Dawa arrived and got rid of their loads and we all returned up the slope. Tenzing and I left our excess oxygen on the knee. We passed rest of Sherpas on way to knee and Charles Wylie with solid load. We then plunged down across traverse picking up exhausted Sherpa on way. Extablished, then Ground down to Camp Knee and had brief rest and drink. A tremendous and successful day.
Day 4.
George, Greg and Ang Nima departed at 8.45 and made a lot of height up the thigh by the time Tenzing and I left at 10am. Our loads slowed us down but we were going well. The couloir was hard wind blown snow and had to be cut for many hundreds of feet. George was going very well and did most of this cutting. All the Sahibs were on 4 litres and Ang Nima on 2 litres. Tenzing and I caught up to the others on the upper thigh by the Swiss tent.
Day 5.
We have reached the top of the leg! The views are breathtaking!! The Sherpas all want to hit that, but I declared my intend to go first. At this elevation, it is bitter cold, but I believe I can reach a certain level of turgidity.
LOL. Several lost their loads near the top.