Posted on 02/14/2014 12:27:30 PM PST by greeneyes
On nice days, I put lots of stuff outside, to start hardening it off, and keep it from getting leggy.
/johnny
Yeh and I’m going with your advice to grow extras as backups.
My Serrano peppers last year I got them in the ground a bit late in May. After the ‘mid hades’ days of summer here in DFW area finally in October got some small peppers on the Fall rebound. Going with an earlier start this season.
Even worse than Missouri!LOL
Thanks for the link!
Busy Busy Beeeeeegill. Hope ya’ll get some rain.
So what is your favorite for canning and sauce?
Several of the garden thread participants have mentioned the Sea Magic, but I haven’t actually tried it.
I am not familiar with those tomatoes. However, a general rule of thumb is to start tomato seeds about 6 weeks or so before desired transplant date.
The transplant date should be based on the Days to maturity, and allow for some weeks of harvest before a freeze. At least that’s the way I do it.
You are surely getting a good start on the garden. I am still working on other stuff, and just doing some general reading on gardening right now to refresh my memory.
Nice picture-thanks for posting it. That table in front of the makeshift shelves looks almost exactly like a table that my Dad made when I was a kid. It was part of the living room furniture to go beside a very high back/armed love seat.
We hit 81 here today after several days of mid 30s for highs. Cut enough broccoli for several meals. Cauliflower is almost ready to cut. More turnips are ready to be pulled.
I planted two peach trees this week and got nectarine graft wood from my neighbor. We will be grafting his fruitless pear tree again this spring. 7 of 10 have grown the past two years.
“I am not familiar with those tomatoes. However, a general rule of thumb is to start tomato seeds about 6 weeks or so before desired transplant date. The transplant date should be based on the Days to maturity, and allow for some weeks of harvest before a freeze. At least thats the way I do it.”
I did that going by the directions on the package as to how long the seeds take to sprout, then how long to keep them growing under the grow lamp before hardening them outside before gong into the final pot.
I guess I’m fuzzy on are there tomatoes that can’t stand heat and have to do their thing before our hot August. Or, does it not matter when you plant any tomato outside as long as it’s ready to go outside?
See, I’m not sure when some plants must be through by hot summer. I’ve read from you and others about lettuce bolting due to heat. So, maybe what I need is a list of veggies that won’t produce in hot weather, they have to do their thing before hot weather?
Does the above make any sense?
I think I understand. As to tomatoes, I think they all suffer if it is too hot and dry. They will not set fruit during very hot weather.
You can help them by setting up shade netting for the hottest part of the afternoon, and IIRC there is a spray that will help with the fruit set.
As long as you get them through the hot season, the indeterminates will usually come back in the fall and provide a late season harvest.
That ‘table’ is actually a small, wooden fruit crate turned on its side for max vertical height. Had some cut branches from a birch cypress tree that I hammered in around the sides to give it some depth for potting soil later on. I might still use it as a planter but for now its performing table-like duties.
We think that our peach trees died last summer. They started out ok in the spring, and got fruit, but then dropped all fruit and leaves. We are not sure why.
I know that the summer before they got inadequate water for the best developement due to the drought. We did haul in water periodically for all the fruit and nut trees, but these were newer plantings, and it just may not have been enough.
Hoping that we are wrong - time will tell I guess.
Lettuce in general likes cooler temps. However, there are certain lettuces that will tolerate heat better than others, and you can put them where they will get shade in the afternoon, and keep them watered and still grow lettuce.
Black Seeded Simpson did pretty good for me when the heat was on like gangbusters. Then there are varieties that tolerate the cold. Look for names that have “Artic” in them. I have had good luck with little gem, winter density, and miner’s lettuce.
Check in your bountiful garden’s catalog, IIRC, they have information on which varieties are best for several seasons. Also many of the other catalog’s will have that info in their descriptions.
Rebel tobacco. Shown with 8” x 16” blocks for scale. (No cannons available)
The ginger and cilantro got kicked outside to a protected area today to harden off because there’s no more room. They’ll enjoy the sunshine.
That’s interesting. Dad’s was made out of pine, and had some groves on the sides for decoration. It was square with 4 legs-one on each side placed in the middle. It had additional cross braces about 6 inches from the bottom.
A nice smooth finish/stain. And varnished to protect the finish.
Does a 40mm 6 lb rifled bullet count?
/johnny
LOL
That’s a game changer there!
Um. Brrrrrrrr.
Disclaimer: Opinions posted on Free Republic are those of the individual posters and do not necessarily represent the opinion of Free Republic or its management. All materials posted herein are protected by copyright law and the exemption for fair use of copyrighted works.