Posted on 12/16/2016 2:46:54 PM PST by nickcarraway
Not to be outdone by the waves of illegal aliens pouring into this great country!
Wave dynamics is interesting. One thing of note is that while wave crests can jack up high the opposite is also true. The troughs can also get very low. This is referred to as wave holes and is probably more dangerous than tall wave. The bow of the ship drops into a deep trough and stuffs into the face of the oncoming wave. I’ve flown alot and sailed a little and the ocean is far more dangerous than the sky...
They used be be, but some time ago (not sure when), surfers started using the face. Makes sense. The article wave was a mid-ocean rogue wave that probably didn't have much difference between front and back.
The pic above is a surfer riding what was estimated to be 80 feet on the face. Think it was somewhere off Africa or another nation and fairly recent. It was not off an American coast.
However, there is break about 100 miles at sea off San Diego that gets around 60 feet, but only for a few days once a year if conditions are right. Saw it on a Discovery channel. All big wave riders have cojones of steel. They have to be towed in by ski-jet just to catch them.
That said, anyone who surfs the Pipeline on a big day is practically suicidal. It has huge amounts of water/energy for a 15-18 footer and breaks in 3 feet of water just above a sharp coral reef in places. The Pipeline has caused more deaths than any other wave in the World, IIRC. Yes, I used to surf.
Yes...that was the one I was thinking of.
The Seas can be a nasty unforgiving mistress, but you aviators have your dangers, also. If our equipment fails in calm seas, not much problem with a ship bobbing about. Your equip fails...well. Plus, you have your atmospheric issues.
Great book. IIRC the surfer dude wound up cratering into the upper story of a high rise.
To your point, As far as I know, East and West Coasts measure the front face. Hawaiian waves are still measured from the backside.
And yes, I’ve BODYsurfed the Pipeline (and Backyards) for years, and the energy is so intense, you are just along for the ride. Mine primary thoughts are always 1) don’t stop swimming and 2) take a deep breath and 3) don’t go over the falls.
UH Rainbows ‘82
Probably the closest to death I ever came was after going over the falls there on about a 12' wave in the early eighties. I remember coughing up water on the beach and the lacerations from the reef that took a long time to heal.
I didn't know that about Hawaiian waves vs West Coast. If you're correct, that would make Waimea Bay at 60-80 ft. face on a big day. Never heard that size. I remember as large as 40ft at Waimea in past surfing magazines, but then I've been out of touch.
"And yes, I’ve BODYsurfed the Pipeline (and Backyards) for years, and the energy is so intense, you are just along for the ride. Mine primary thoughts are always 1) don’t stop swimming and 2) take a deep breath and 3) don’t go over the falls."
Am I correct in thinking you bodysurfed on smaller days? I watch a lot of shows about surfing, but never saw a bodysurfer on Pipeline's big days. Har, "don't go over the falls." Yup, that's was kills 'em at Pipeline. Was I right about Pipeline causing the most deaths of any wave?
"UH Rainbows ‘82"
What does that stand for?
Wow and major Ouch! Yes, you're lucky to be alive. You either had the big ones or just damn foolish. That reef is a meat-grinder. It kills, what, 2-3 people a season, not to mention what you experienced? Sheesh, I thought my ticket was punched when I went head-long into the 3 foot of sand at the body-surfing Wedge in SoCal on a 12ft day.
No major damage, but the Lifeguard had pull me out of the shore break because of the steep shelf that suck you back in to the breakers. Couldn't get my breath from being punched so hard. That was the end of the Wedge for me.
Eddie would go brah!
Are these some of the same scientists that tell us about global cooling/warming/change?
Surf’s Up!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlC3n0VSGOU
*That said,anyone who surfs the Pipeline on a big day is practically suicidal.*
“It has huge amounts of water/energy for a 15-18 footer and breaks in 3 feet of water just above a sharp coral reef in places.”
*** “ It has huge amounts of water/energy for a 15-18 footer and breaks in 3 feet of water just above a sharp coral reef in places. “ ***
When I was young and dumb body surfing and didn’t turn out quick enough wave broke and I was about 12 ft elevation and the place that I was being thrown was about 2 ft deep fo a couple seconds then 12ft deep then 2 ft then 12 ft and the whole time I’m doing about 6 knots over a sharp (and painful) bottom ... finally outran a wave and made it to the beach... I was sliced and diced ... I healed up pretty quick except for my elbow ... Corpsman was picking Coral out of that cut for about 6 months, Coral kept growing back, in my elbow.
I was 19. That age when you foolishly think you are invincible. The locals just laughed at the stupid haole.
The wedge is insane. Never been there but the YouTube videos are always entertaining. Shore break can be dangerous at almost any size. Almost snapped my neck body boarding 3 foot shore break in Southern Delaware one winter years ago, and not a soul around for miles. A sickening yellow bruise from my neck and shoulder down to my chest. I stay away from shore break since then.
In 1980 some of my crazier friends and I decided to surf the storm surge of Hurricane Allen in Corpus Christi, TX. The Coast Guard pulled us out and made us leave our boards behind. Lost a 5’9” Thruster Tri Fin. That water was cold even with a wet suit.
The stupid things we do when we’re young.
Caused by globull warming?
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