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Londoners Learn to Love Their Grits (the Brits put their distinctive stamp on down-home cooking.)
The International Herald Tribune ^ | March 5, 2004 | Warren St. John

Posted on 03/05/2004 2:17:25 PM PST by quidnunc

London – A curious smell began wafting across the Soho district here early last year, one that to Americans might have been as familiar and distinctive as the scent of popcorn at a movie theater but which struck the locals as new, foreboding and not a little uncivilized.

It was the smell of hickory smoke and charred hog fat, the unmistakable aroma of an old-fashioned pit barbecue, emanating from the chimney of a new rib joint called Bodean's, which takes its name from a main character in "The Beverly Hillbillies," Jethro Bodean. "They asked, 'How often will it smell like this?'" Bryan Tyrell, a Kansas City native who manages Bodean's, recalled his neighbors asking. "We said, 'All the time.'"

There has been nothing subtle about the arrival of down-home Southern cooking in London. Thanks to the overpowering smell coming out of Bodean's chimney and a handful of American soul food restaurants that have opened here in the last year, the English — or at least, a certain trendy subset of British foodies — have discovered Southern food, and have gone gaga for it.

No strangers to American culinary achievements like Pizza Hut, McDonald's, Krispy Kreme and the occasional 1950s theme restaurant like Johnny Rockets, some Londoners have gained a sudden and improbable enthusiasm for food that until recently many here considered vile: ribs, gumbo, collard greens, buttermilk biscuits, even grits. "It's wild and it's weird, and it's working-class, blue-collar food — nothing wrong with that," said Michael Smiley, a 41-year-old actor, as he ate a plate of ribs at Bodean's, where he said he had barbecue "once a fortnight."

London critics have rushed in to praise the new gastronomy, which some have called "redneck food" and "prison food." A.A. Gill, the rapier-penned critic for The Sunday Times, who makes mincemeat of overreaching London chefs, gave four stars out of five to Ashbell's, a soul food joint in trendy Notting Hill, which charges $28 for a plate of pulled pork and grits.

Bodean's was nominated for a Carlton Restaurant Award, one of London's premiere culinary prizes. Those who can imagine Daniel Boulud squaring off for a food prize against Dallas BBQ will get an idea of the culinary stakes involved in that matchup.

The timing of soul food chic in England could not be odder. Only a year ago, Giles Coren, a critic for The Times of London, spoke for many here when he likened grits to vomit and wrote that American food "is no different from the food in rural Ukraine in the darkest hours of Stalinism." He said: "It's just brighter colored and there's more of it."

-snip-

(Excerpt) Read more at iht.com ...


TOPICS: Culture/Society; Extended News; United Kingdom
KEYWORDS: barbecue; bbq; culture; food; uk
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Quote:

Making proper soul food in England, even for a professional chef, is no easy task. Simply getting a slab of ribs can be difficult because butchers in England do not usually make that particular cut. Getting proper hominy grits — ground feed corn that has been soaked in lye — is next to impossible, so restaurants like Ashbell's and Harlem are left to mix their own versions of grits from regular corn meal. The result looks and tastes like polenta, not that most Londoners would know the difference.

Condiments, too, are tricky. Yellow mustard must be shipped in from the States, and Helberg said he used a ketchup made from Portuguese tomatoes. It is more flavorful than the regular American stuff, and yet not quite the same. He uses charcoal not from South Carolina but from South Africa, and his hot dogs come from the Netherlands.

Tyrell is surprised at how many vegetarians show up at his barbecue joint — he estimates that about 20 percent of his customers do not eat meat — and for them, he said, he had to add a goat cheese ratatouille to the menu. He also said locals hated his corn bread. "You couldn't give it away," he said.

Sometimes British customers have to be educated about how to eat American cuisine, and occasionally their behavior at the table speaks to broader cultural differences between England and America. Conran said that when he served hamburgers unassembled — with an open bun and garnishes on the side — his customers often mistook the lettuce, tomato and onion for salad. Building your own burger, he supposed, is democratic and individualistic, and therefore a distinctly American notion. The British, he said, are unfamiliar with the notion of culinary manifest destiny.

The Brits have a way of taking a good thing and buggering it up.

Take pizza for instance: You can get Brussels sprouts, corn, baked beans and cottage cheese as pizza topings, for instance.

And then there is Chinese duck pizza, chicken tikka pizza and balti pizza.

1 posted on 03/05/2004 2:17:26 PM PST by quidnunc
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To: quidnunc
Since when has British cuisine been anything other than boiled potato's and entrails.
2 posted on 03/05/2004 2:23:10 PM PST by Dead Dog
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To: Dead Dog
Limes and Hardtack.
3 posted on 03/05/2004 2:23:45 PM PST by Dead Dog
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To: Dead Dog
Since when has British cuisine been anything other than boiled potato's and entrails.

Fish 'n Chips rules.

4 posted on 03/05/2004 2:27:53 PM PST by antiRepublicrat
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To: Dead Dog
Now, now. If you haven't had steak and kidney pie (or pudding), you haven't lived.
5 posted on 03/05/2004 2:28:15 PM PST by expatpat
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To: Howlin; Ed_NYC; MonroeDNA; widgysoft; Springman; Timesink; dubyaismypresident; Grani; coug97; ...
A curious smell began wafting across the Soho district here early last year, one that to Americans might have been as familiar and distinctive as the scent of popcorn at a movie theater but which struck the locals as new, foreboding and not a little uncivilized.

And I'm gonna smell up the neighborhood this weekend!

Just damn.

If you want on the list, FReepmail me. This IS a high-volume PING list...

6 posted on 03/05/2004 2:28:18 PM PST by mhking
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To: expatpat
expatpat wrote: Now, now. If you haven't had steak and kidney pie (or pudding), you haven't lived.

And I think haggis is pretty good; that is if you can get past what's in it.

7 posted on 03/05/2004 2:32:17 PM PST by quidnunc (Omnis Gaul delenda est)
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To: antiRepublicrat
antiRepublicrat wrote: Fish 'n Chips rules.

The problem with real English fish 'n' chips is that they serve it dripping with deep-fry grease.

8 posted on 03/05/2004 2:34:47 PM PST by quidnunc (Omnis Gaul delenda est)
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To: expatpat; Dead Dog
*LOL* Black pudding is a mighty fine dish. I wish I could say the same for tripe soup but that's another thread. Nothing wrong with entrails after they've been limed to death, and then stuffed with mystery ingredients. Not surprised about this grits thing. Even better are sweet potatoes, yellow yam and cassava which went wherever the English sailors went because those things were potable foodstuffs. English food is okay (as long as it is jazzed up a little).
9 posted on 03/05/2004 2:35:51 PM PST by cyborg (In die begin het God die hemel en die aarde geskape.)
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To: Dead Dog
You haven't been to England, I'd guess. There's a whole spectrum of food in England, most of it very good.

And if you're really yearning for home, you can always hit the Burger King or Pizza Hut.

But lots of the traditional British food is very, very good.
10 posted on 03/05/2004 2:40:18 PM PST by MineralMan (godless atheist)
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To: quidnunc
Take pizza for instance: You can get Brussels sprouts, corn, baked beans and cottage cheese as pizza topings, for instance.

??? I've never seen anything like that!!
11 posted on 03/05/2004 2:43:17 PM PST by pau1f0rd
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To: cyborg
cyborg wrote: …English food is okay (as long as it is jazzed up a little).

Except for salad cream!

That's vile and disgusting stuff, as is Marmite.

12 posted on 03/05/2004 2:44:40 PM PST by quidnunc (Omnis Gaul delenda est)
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To: expatpat
An Irish pal of mine got me on blank and white pudding with eggs, tomatoes, bacon and a pair of Newcastles for breakfast. Tasty.

I like real steak and kidney pie too...

13 posted on 03/05/2004 2:47:22 PM PST by Ribeye (Protective head wear courtesy of Reynolds Aluminum Products)
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To: quidnunc
Now I am hungry reading this thread. I would rather eat a PBJ someone else made than a 6 course Thanksgiving meal I had to cook. One rare time that I got to go out the waitress asked me what I wanted and I broke done in tears.....
14 posted on 03/05/2004 2:49:51 PM PST by CathyRyan
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To: Ribeye
I'll take my grits with butter and syrup, thank you. And I'm a Yankee. I guess its because I'm from southern Ohio...
15 posted on 03/05/2004 2:51:00 PM PST by chadwimc
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To: Dead Dog
Since when has British cuisine been anything other than boiled potato's and entrails.

1/ London restaurants are among the best in the world.
2/ London isn't Britain (unfortunately, where food is concerned)
3/ The restaurant is probably owned and run by an American - it's managed by "Bryan Tyrell, a Kansas City native "
16 posted on 03/05/2004 2:53:28 PM PST by pau1f0rd
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To: quidnunc
Damn, Now I'm hungry.
17 posted on 03/05/2004 2:53:52 PM PST by AFreeBird (your mileage may vary)
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To: quidnunc
I had a good pizza in London. Don't remember the street, because that warm lager has an effect:) I had a good cheeseburger in Paris on Raspail street. And I found hot dogs in Madrid in the Orence neighborhood.

Seek and ye shall find:) We are everywhere!

18 posted on 03/05/2004 2:56:32 PM PST by BobS
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To: quidnunc
Thats what the newspaper is for.

Really, the Brits need to get this American food thing down.

All You Need to Know about 'Merikun Food;,

By Dead Dog



1 Porter House Steak (Nebraska Beef)
2 Black Pepper
3 yellow onion
4 green pepper
5 shrooms

6 Beer (24 pack..brand of choice)
7 3 Lbs of Ice.

One hour before serving:
Poor a layer of ice in bottom of large wash tub
Place beer over layer of ice, cover beer with remaining ice.

30 minutes before serving
Light brickets

15 minutes
spread brickets into dense but even layer
Pepper and Grill steak 5 minute per side

While steak is grilling, saute veggies in butter until al dente(sp)

Remove steak; let set 5 minutes

Serve with veggies and nearly frozen beer.

19 posted on 03/05/2004 2:57:54 PM PST by Dead Dog
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To: quidnunc
The problem with real English fish 'n' chips is that they serve it dripping with deep-fry grease.

That's OK, as long as it's real LARD and not that sissy vegetable shortening stuff!

;^)

20 posted on 03/05/2004 2:58:56 PM PST by JimRed (Fight election fraud! Volunteer as a local poll watcher, challenger or district official.)
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