While I was looking around for something to identify the place, a tour group came in. The tour director was pointing out things, in a language I didn't know. One of the group came over to me and asked if I spoke English. He asked me somthing, which I told him, then I asked, "what is this place?" He said it was an Armenian Catholic Church. The group left after a few minutes, and I figured I'd stick around and see if there was a Mass. People started filtering in and taking seats. Right at 11 o'clock, the priest came out and said Mass.
The thing that struck me the most was not that there were still some Armenians around, but that they practically had to hide themselves and their church. There was never any overt anti-Christian feeling that I could detect in Istanbul, but all the Christian churches still in operation were hidden behind high walls. In one case I could see a church well back in the middle of a block. I walked around the entire block without finding a way to get back to it. Evidently you had to know how. No casual passerby would ever find the entrance.