You forgot something - the wiring harness. Have fun taking that apart looking for the break in the line without a meter. Or maybe it’s not a dead short, maybe it’s resistance somewhere that’s keeping voltage below the critical volts for the HEI module. I’ve seen that more than once.
Yeah, LCDs might not work so well. But there are still the old analog units (some are still made, you can get them at Sears cheap) and even LED units.
No I didn't: [...] or supply to the distributor.
Have fun taking that apart looking for the break in the line without a meter.
It goes from the distributor to the key, from the key to the fuse box, from the fusebox to a junction on the firewall from the junction to the inside pole on the starter solenoid, through the solenoid to the battery...
Gee, I think I can handle that with my handy-dandy test light.
Or maybe it’s not a dead short, maybe it’s resistance somewhere that’s keeping voltage below the critical volts for the HEI module. I’ve seen that more than once.
Then the light doesn't light up so bright- This isn't rocket science. Worst case scenario, run a jumper past all that from the batt to the distributor You can do that when you don't have a computer in the way...
Yeah, LCDs might not work so well. But there are still the old analog units (some are still made, you can get them at Sears cheap) and even LED units.
As I said, analog gauges are unreliable in cold weather too. This is certainly turning into a PIA, finding a car battery operated analog multimeter when all I need is a damn test light.