As a Range Rover approaches 100K miles you can expect the following to occur: failed water pump, leaking power steering pump, worn out suspension bushings (this is normal, however, due to the deliberate design of the bushings), brake caliper pistons seeping fluid, restricted flow in the radiator due to scale development, malfunctioning power door locks, and a whole host of minor electrical problems. If the vehicle was operated in a state where salt was used on the roads, or in a humid, salty environment (Florida, etc.), you can expect the rear frame crossmember and tailgate to have a potentially severe rust problem. Some of these things you can fix, others, like the two pumps and the bushings, you can only replace. If you are prepared to do the work yourself, the cost is reasonable other than your time. If you are going to have these things done at a dealership, the cost will be many thousands of dollars ($800 for radiator replacement, $800-$1000 for new (read rebuilt) front brake calipers, $600 for a “tuneup” assuming they find nothing wrong, and so on.
Very few independent mechanics know how to work on a Range Rover. It’s not that they’re rocket science, but they are different enough and require enough specialized tools that most independents won’t touch them. The factory service manual is excellent, however, and is a requirement if you are contemplating buying a Range Rover (the manuals, like everything else, are expensive, $100+).
The Rover V-8 is extremely picky about having the correct anti-freeze solution in it and having regular oil and filter changes every 3K miles or so. The need for the oil changes stems from the hydraulic lifters in the valve train. They clog at the slightest excuse and stick, which results in rapid wear to the camshaft if the problem isn’t corrected. Dirty oil is a prime cause of sticky lifters, either through dirt or through the formation of varnish. A Rover V-8 with a ticking valve is headed for a very expensive repair if the problem can’t be corrected through chemotherapy. One of the most effective cures is to add a quart of automatic transmisson fluid to the oil and run it until the next oil change. If this doesn’t cure the sticking lifter, nothing will except replacement of the lifters, a multi-thousand dollar job.
DO NOT buy a Range Rover County LWB (the stretched classic Range Rover sold in the US from 1993 to 1995 or so). The 4.2 engine has a major design flaw, and the first-generation air suspension is what Land Rover used to learn how to make an air suspension properly, which they introduced on the new model which came out in 1995. The best years (in the US) for the coil sprung Range Rover were 1991 and 1992, in my opinion.
The aluminum bodywork is very soft, dents easily, and is VERY expensive to repair. In fact, it’s probably cheaper to buy a new body panel and replace the damaged one altogether, assuming you know how to do this and have access to a paint shop that knows how to prime and paint aluminum.
The Rover V-8 MUST use premium fuel. At 14mpg around town and 17-19 mpg on the highway, this gets real expensive real fast given the direction fuel prices are going these days.
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t595794-range_rover_vs_jeep_grand_cherokee
- JP
“DO NOT buy a Range Rover County LWB ....”
LOL. That is probably THE most popular model of the RRC. The 4.2L, taken care of like ALL OTHER ENGINES, will go 200K+ miles. You can keep the new Grand Cherokee, a plastic unibody POS. The old J10/J20/Cherokee was the last of the breed. The Classic/DI/DII engine is the Buick engine, flat tappet design. It can go many miles if the owner understands the technical heritage.
Why the lower MPG? Because they are full frame vehicles, unlike your typical SUV, and weigh in at 4500+ lbs. They are also solid axle vehicles, superior to the independent suspension city mall-crawler SUVs.
I ran Scouts for years. The only realistic replacement was the Rover. The Land Rover / RRC is basically a luxury International Scout.