I've been there, and the Jewish history of the region is fascinating. And a source of pride in some quarters. I've been "lectured" on a few occasions that "this" is part of a lost Jewish tradition. Bought a Mezuzah case once at a museum, and the salesperson (actually saleswoman, very nice) asked if I was Jewish, then pulled me aside and told me privately that the scroll included wasn't "official", she meant Kosher. I thanked her, though I knews, it was a kind gesture. I've heard of the Jewish gravestones, but have never seen one. If you know the cemetaries, frmail me or post them, I'm sure I'll be there in the next couple years and I'd like to see them.
As to antisemitism, less interesting, and you're right, there's a large reflexive component.