Posted on 02/23/2014 4:59:16 PM PST by mylife
Oooo-Rah!
I’ve still got about 600 rounds of 303 British manufactured in 1918 and there was never a misfire in the 400 or so I’ve already shot...
Takes some elbow grease to clean that bore afterwards though!
Yeah, The old corrosive stuff always goes bang, but is a pain to clean.
The words Berdan and Boxer describe a design of the primer. It has nothing to do with weather they are corrosive or not. Corrosive primers are a result of the priming mixture, not the design.
Berdan primers have no anvil, and use the shell case for that function, with 2 or 3 small holes drilled off center in the casing for the force of the primer to reach the powder charge. Boxer primers have an anvil in the primer, and their charge is directed thru one opening in the center of the shell casing.
Berdan primers can be reloaded, but a regular center punch primer removal pin cant be used because of the off set holes in the shell casing. Usually water or air pressure is used to deprime - not a popular method in the US.
I have seen it said that not all Berdan primers are corrosive. But Boxer primers are apparently NEVER corrosive.
Berdan Primer, currently the European standard.
In a Berdan primer the mixture is contained in a simple cup. The anvil is a part of the primer pocket of the case, and is centrally located in the pocket. This necessitates two flasholes off center, rather than the centrally located one in Boxer.
Boxer, the primer is self contained in that the anvil is a separate piece, placed in the cup above the mixture. The primer pocket has no anvil, and has a centrally located flashole about twice the size of the off center holes in the Berdan primed stuff.
Both systems work well, and though each has its advcates, I don’t think there is any real inherent advantage to either in terms of results.
However in terms of reloading ease the Boxer system wins hands down. It is possible to reload berdan primed ammunition, but it is much more problematic than Boxer stuff.
Decapping is the first obstacle, the two hole system means that out Boxer system central decapping pin is useless. Various methods; hydrualic, and peircing the cup from the base, etc are used. All are much slower than decapping Boxer primed ammo.
Availability of components is a problem here in the US. Berdan primers are not generally as easily obtained as Boxer primers.
Basicly, Berdan primed ammunition is fine for one use. Then IMHO you should sell the residue for scrap and buy new.
The price of imported Berdan primed ammunition makes it very attractive, at least from and initial purchase point of view.
Berdan primed cases mixed in with your Boxer primed brass will make for some miserable experiences in reloading.
Sometimes the decapping pin is broken, or pulled out of the stem by the Berdan brass.
Sometimes the stuff is punched out leaving a three flash hole case. It you’re using a progressive you will then, if I recall correctly, discover that the berdan primers are not exactly the same size as the Boxer primers.
The Boxers don’t enter the pocket, and if they do the anvil collides with what is left of the existing case’s anvil and you can not seat them flush.
I use ammonia followed by Hoppes #9
Largely you are correct, but WWII Boxer primed US issue stuff was corrosive.
Berdan and Boxer are just mechanical designs.
What makes them corrosive is the chemicals you stuff in those primers.
The Boxer system is preferred in this country for ease of reloading.
Gnight CH, this chin wag is to wide for tonight LOL
Have a great week!
Remember,
♥ ♥ ♥ "In Love's Service, Only Wounded Soldiers Can Serve." ♥ ♥ ♥
God Bless.
Holy Carp! A B-17 just flew by my office window at 100 ft off the deck.
You were correct. It shot about 3 inches lower at 100 yards.
You are the ballistics guru!!!
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