Posted on 09/12/2010 9:59:05 AM PDT by posterchild
When mine Kaks I will just buy another old one.
Thick crusty carbon buildup will make lifters stick. I think they make an oil additive that will eat away at it. low oil pressure will too. when an engine gets loose, you lose oil pressure. This can be remedied by upgrading to a high volume oil pump.
When I was younger, a friend of mine bought an old first generation Subaru. THe car had just over 100,000 miles and we think it had the original oil filter. It required major surgery to remove.
I beg to differ. I ran Pennzoil 20w50 in cooler weather and straight Pennzoil 60w in warmer weather in my “78 Shovelhead. Both were racing oils.
Sorry if I didn't make myself clear. I was writing about modern high mpg oils, not specialty oils, like racing oils, which have different formulations and properties. In addition to that, your bike has a dry clutch, and separate crankcase and transmission oils. Most motorcycles have a wet clutch and share the oil between the crankcase and transmission. I've seen at least 5 motorcycles that have needed major repairs due to using the wrong oil.
Mark
710 alert
You have neglected your car and it is angry. "CTF Oil" means Check The Fu*kin' Oil!!
Recently, the car developed an oil leak from a valve cover. When I removed the cover, I was shocked to see a dark brown coating of varnish covering the rockers, springs, etc.
I did the same thing starting with a brand new 1990 Toyota Corolla, which I traded in on a brand new 2000 Toyota Corolla (at about 200,000 miles). I had no engine problems on the 1990, but later on the 2000, I did have a serious compression problem on one cylinder late in 2009 at about 185,000 miles, though I never determined if it was a problem with the rings, cylinder, head, valves, or head gasket. I always used Jiffy Lube every 3000 miles, and never had problems until recently, but I don't know if that was what caused the problem. But I've been thinking about starting to go to Walmart for my oil changes, where you buy your own oil and filter, and they change it for you for a nominal fee. They'll match any advertised price on the oil and filter too.
Mark
The rule used to be 3 months or 3000 miles since short distance driving is very hard on an engine. The great majority of wear is done in the 1st few miles as the engine warms.
If you knew what you were doing you’d judge by acidity.
I have had experience with failing to replace oil drained for a change. The car never made it around the block before grinding to a halt.
I’ve done that with a car designed with high oil use. The VW Dasher. The sludge at the bottom never got disturbed. An oil change breaks up the sludge and introduces the bad stuff into the oil circulation.
I left the Corps in ‘72—a retirement physical was required.
Used to be ya hadda take another physical every 4 years else they cut off yer monthly check (when we still had checks).
Then they decided all the citizen navy doctors were needed at sea—things were getting tough—ironically, they had to be us citizens overseas, so ashore they started using foreign-born doctors, civilians, females, even corp(s)men... money was tight...
For me it meant i no longer hadda waste my time w/@$$wholes...
end-of-story...
I used to use Castrol and Penzoil, until at about 10k miles it broke down, I blew the main radiator hose, one block uphill from the Ford dealer, coasted down hill one block and cracked the block in the process.
Parafin based oil had broken down in the cold weather and seized the crankshaft.
Since then I’ve only used Havoline 10/20 or in the desert perhaps 20/50 in the summertime and have about 350k on a rebuilt short block 302 V8, changing oil generally every 3k -4500miles.
Just recently the oil pressure has started to drop, but that has been 2 years after the harmonic balancer main bolt cracked and the new one indicates the cam shaft is just a tad warped. Still runs fine, but her get up and go feels like it has got up and went.
Well paraffin based oil does suck in extreme cold.
Started up a 1970 mustang mach I at 2:30 AM on a jan day in NE Ohio and snapped an oil pump shaft.
Yeah, that sucked LoL
20/50 in the desert is generally a good idea.
At least with older cars
Only the rich had Refrigerators when I was born.....1939
us poooor folks had ice boxes....the ice man would drive down your street twice a week with a horse drawn wagon full of ice and you put a sign in your window that said 25 or 50. That told the ice man how big an ice cube you wanted. 25 pound or 50 pound block...And that was in the big city of Detroit, 4th largest city in the country at that time. and quite beautiful, not like today...
What I started using is Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic Blend. My understanding is that it is essentially Valvoline DuraBlend plus a seal conditioner additive package.
What I was cautioned about is not to add a cleaner to the oil as a sudden influx of crud could clog an oil port. Because my cylinder compression readings were solid, I decided to go ahead and clean the engine but to do it slowly by using a high quality oil and changing it every 1,000 miles.
Maybe 5K miles from now, I'll take off the valve cover and see how everything looks. If clean, I'll switch to 3K mile oil change intervals.
low oil pressure will too. when an engine gets loose, you lose oil pressure. This can be remedied by upgrading to a high volume oil pump.
Interesting, I'll see if there's some way to measure the oil pressure on my car.
One of my friends has an uncle in Bandera who takes the dipstick out lets a drop or two fall on his wrist and licks it. That guy knows cars like the back of his hand. Probably related to the same reason that smell works as an indicator. Won’t find me doing it, but the man is a genius with cars. Incidentally I’ve never seen him lose a game of poker which might be possible related.
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