Posted on 09/12/2010 9:59:05 AM PDT by posterchild
Newer engines run cleaner and have less blow-by when new and old because they were built with better techniques, tolerances and materials. The oil is much better and lasts longer without breaking down than the older oils did. But the bottom line is that there is only so much particulate matter than an oil can suspend, whether you paid $2.00 or $6.00 a quart for it.
I recycle 100% of my oil, and it is one of the most energy-positive things you can recycle. It can be re-refined and I think it’s sold to commercial/industrial users.
I do wonder about the quick-change places around here who use it for heating. There are lot of heavy metals in used oil...
You still need to change the filter every once in a while.
[I try to judge by viscosity, clarity and color.]
I judge by its thick syrup black opaqueness. If it won’t drip, it’s time for a change :)
Indeed he was. :o)
I change my oil and oil filter every 3,000 to 5,000 miles. I routinely get 250,000 miles out of a car and then I usually buy a new one because of something other than the engine. In fact, the last couple of cars I had went that distance and I never needed to ad a quart of oil between changes.
Oil and filters are cheap.
It really depends on the situation...
First off, the most of the newer motor oils are formulated for higher mpg, and can cause problems in severe use situations, for instance, cars or trucks that pull heavy loads, diesels, very hot or dusty environments, and motorcycles (auto oils in motorcycles can cause catastrophic engine, clutch, and or transmission damage). A lot of people don’t realize that running lots of short trips where the car doesn’t really get a chance to warm up, especially in cold weather, is considered “severe duty.”
But for normal duty, simply follow the auto manufacturers’ recommendations. For instance, in my Kia Sportage, Kia recommends oil changes every 7500 miles or 6 months. And of the upmost importance is using the API specification ratings you’ll find in the owners manual. In my case, Kia recommends SJ, SL, or above.
Mark
In your case, time is more important, especially if your vehicle isn't in a climate controlled environment. The heating and chilling can cause water to condense inside the motor, contaminating the oil.
Mark
I’ve heard that before, but remember that it is only burning the light stuff. The sludge is still sitting at the bottom; thus contaminating the light stuff.
I use synthetic and it goes 12 to 15,000
The on board computer tells me when to have it done.
To check it I sent a sample at 14,000 to Blackstone for analysis and they said it was ok for a good 2000 miles at least and showed no anomalies
Take this advice with a grain of salt if your engine is turbocharged. Oil nearing the end of serviceable life that is fine for the engine can blow the turbo.
"Change your oil. Oil's cheap."
My Subaru has 230,000 miles and we change the oil every 5,000 miles.
A good filter should get most of it, I would think.
I was a 3k and change guy for many years. In the last 5 years I have gone to 5k. Easier to look at a miles and if it has a 5 or a 0, it is time for a change. I have yet to own a car that hasn't surpassed 200K. With very basic routine maintenance today's cars will last 20 years or more.
A good filter should get most of it, I would think.
I was a 3k and change guy for many years. In the last 5 years I have gone to 5k. Easier to look at a miles and if it has a 5 or a 0, it is time for a change. I have yet to own a car that hasn't surpassed 200K. With very basic routine maintenance today's cars will last 20 years or more.
I go by the 3000 mile rule. The cost of changing the oil is minimal, and I tend to keep cars until it’s not worth the expense of fixing them.
LOL! Mine's not quite that bad, maybe 4 qts. But it's an old honda with 196,000 miles so I don't much care anymore.........It's better than a car payment.
Another thing you can do as cheap insurance is to get a magnetic drain plug, which can attract some of the suspended metal from the oil.
Mark
My rule is related to what kind of engine you have in the first place, then its how much you drive and in what weather conditions, lastly and most important is the age of the engine.
A diesel requires an oil that won’t break down from unburned fuel oil and usually has more stress so what is called a HDEO (heavy duty engine oil) is preferred, diesel oil will get black very quick in large diesel engines, typically I maintain a fleet of concrete mixers and my oil change interval is around 3000 miles.
If a vehicle only travels less than 10 miles a day it usually does not get hot enough to burn off excess crankcase moisture, if using a high paraffin based conventional oil sludge will build up quickly, where I live in Alaska I use synthetics year round but in the winter I change the oil on my 8.1 Vortec engine at 2000 miles, 2500 or more during the summer, in my wifes SUV I use Amsoil and I tell her its good for 5000 miles.
Synthetics can make an older engine leak oil as it actually removes sludge and will find the smallest point to escape.
An older large displacement motor like a 454, 460 and even some new 496(8.1L) have loose tolerances and carbon over quickly and also burn a little oil, my Silverado even new will burn almost a quart of oil at 1000 miles after an oil change, they all do with the 8.1L.
My motorcycles though (they are a Honda and a Yamaha)have very precise tolerances and the oil stays clean even after 1000 miles. If only the auto manufacturers had an on board carbon removing filter a good oil can last the life of a motor.
If only people would escape from the mentality of buying the cheapest oil and filters, very high quality synthetics like Royal Purple and Amsoil should be used after the suggested breakin period of a new car if they are not used initially, tolerances are much more precise in todays engines and the breakin period occurs much more quickly now.
I have been a mechanic most of life and have worked on everything from boats the snowmachines, never go cheap on oil or the filter and though some oils claim more than 5000 miles I would still keep that as the absolute upper limit with 3000 the normal period for everyday normal usage.
Racing and two strokes are another thing altogether.
Extreme cold and hot temperatures demand synthetic oils, I still use dino based oil in my fleet of big diesel trucks but they also all have oil heaters. But that oil is useless if allowed to get cold at -40 or even at -0 degrees.
Any oil that feels gritty or burnt should be changed, or if its been in an engine longer than a year.
I changed the oil and filter in my pickup yesterday. I used to do all my own oil changes, but it was such a mess that I’m going Jiffy Lube from now on. I change oil once a year, which is usually less than 3,000 miles, since I drive several vehicles.
I know a guy that ran a 68 rambler all through school and beyond without ever changing the oil.
He just added to it.
Man that oil was meaner that cat shit after about 4 years.
We drained some off and used it as the basis for a smoke bomb
Holy smokes! they evacuated the school
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