We have a 3 foot by 3 foot solar panel that was given to us. If we use it , it would be on the 100% south side of our house that has very little obstruction.
We would love to get it up and running, but we are not sure what "appliances" it would cover...If the water pump, that would be great.
I’m sorry. That would not be enough PV module for charging a battery for the average AC water well pump (like most well pumps). It might power a DC slow pump for filling a cistern (instead of using batteries), if the well is shallow.
Consider preparing a good pit for a cistern with a float switch and a portable generator hookup. Be sure to compact the bottom of the pit for the cistern adequately, and avoid cave-in hazards. Even a little soil is extremely heavy. Not much fuel is required to fill a cistern about, say, 600 gallons for a household that uses very little water.
Avoid getting a very large cistern, so that bacterial and protozoa buildup in water can be avoided (maybe 1500 gallons or so at most for a household that uses water as much as a typical suburban household). Sanitize the cistern once in a while (once per year or more, find detailed bleach/water mix and sanitizing instructions for that specific task. Be careful.).
The following only applies, if the pump is a 220-volt, submersible pump with a deep pitless adapter (for the waterline exit from the casing, to prevent freezing). For a 110-volt pump, the information will need to be found elsewhere. Most pumps are 220, as far as I’ve seen.
Make sure the generator produces enough power for the pump. Mine needs somewhere over 2,100 watts to handle the surge requirement of a 1/2 HP pump. Most pumps require more power than that. A generator that produces a rated 6,000 watts or more should handle most pumps up to 1 HP except for pumps with cables that are lacking insulation from rubbing on steel well casings.
Strong post. I used an 8x8 inch, pressure treated wood post. The size of post and other protection depends on traffic hazards or other hazards.
Outdoor switchbox of adequate voltage and current tolerance (to go on the post—at least 125% max current from highest pump starting surge). Check local codes for GFCI requirement or not. A 30-amp outdoor switch was overkill enough for my installation, but some installations might need more.
Inlet of adequate current tolerance for the input to the outdoor switch. Not an outlet, but an inlet. There are four prongs showing instead of sockets, and there’s a little spring-loaded weather cover over the prongs.
Four-conductor (three-wire plus ground wire = four), special cable for generator. Harbor Freight had ‘em, last time I looked. Make sure that the gauge is adequate.
Adequate wire gauge and correct wires for the switch-to-pump connection through a junction on the well casing (ask well pump vendor about the proper cable)
Proper wire routing and connections. I forgot what those were, but the info is on the Net. Check your local inspector for possible permit requirement. Besides, the inspector can show or tell the correct wire connections, although those are available here and there on the Net for anyone using a diligent enough Web search.
Run conduit from the inlet to the switch and underground (to proper depth, it was a minimum of 18 inches here, but requirements vary depending on site conditions) to well casing. Install a proper conduit junction box for the cable connection on the well casing (see “bell box”).
Float switch (from cistern to outdoor switch on post, to avoid overfilling and damaging the cistern).
I’m sure there’s more. Look around for information. Study.
An even nicer alternative is a solar water well pump system for a well with a cistern. Look the details up around the Web with the keywords,
solar water well pump system
They work with what are called slow pumps—all that’s needed with a cistern and enough PV solar modules. No batteries required, although a small backup generator is a good idea.
Sorry for the hasty pile of words, but I must get out to do some work now.