Location? Selling to the grid? Getting full retail? If you’re in Florida or the SW part of the country or some sunny intermountain locations, then you are probably a net asset to the rest of us. Elsewhere, we are probably overpaying for your electricity. For example if you are here in Virginia where net metering is the law, we pay you full retail price for your power instead of wholesale. Why should we pay full retail for power that is unreliable instead of wholesale price for reliable power. My power company exec said that very thing himself. He is trying to get a good deal for us, his customers, but his hands are tied by the net metering law.
A good resource follows in a link to a PDF.
ELECTRONIC VERSION 1.93
Dated December 2011
Photovoltaic Power Systems
And the
2005 National Electrical Code:
Suggested Practices
John Wiles
http://www.solar-electric.com/media/wysiwyg/PV-NEC-V-193.pdf
familyop rant again: remember, though, that there have been a very few changes since the date of that document. Two, off the top of my head, are MC4 connectors instead of the old junctions required for new PV module (solar panel) installs (nice connectors, easy to use, get the cheap tool, and be very careful by having the input switch to the controller shut off and locked out first, covering the modules, grounding the module frames or rails before connecting, avoiding standing or sitting in water, avoiding touching any exposed leads, etc.). Solar modules (solar panels) can electrocute us! Don’t be a Frankenstein!
Another change might be arc fault protection in the controller or otherwise for at least some installs, if the code folks haven’t extended those to all installs, yet. There may have been more changes (maybe more ground fault circuit interrupts: GFCIs). Ask your solar power component vendor, who should know about any more changes. Do have a good look at lightning arrestors and other surge protectors. Don’t forget “combiners” where needed (for solar panel arrays).
Do pull a permit for the install, if it’s mounted anywhere on your property (that is, anything other a mobile install in your own RV or something like that). A permit is not very expensive at all, and it will make your system better. Some inspectors are very sociable and informative. Others are terse grouches. If you get a grouch and need an answer to a question, write it out concisely and descriptively with full details to give to him in person (usually early, when he arrives at his office). Don’t take any more of his time than necessary.
Don’t energize or turn anything on before the inspection. If the inspection fails, no sweat. Fix the install, and pass. Learn. There are even specifications in code for the amounts of insulation stripped from wires, but it’s not all that hard.
And remember that every time you see anything on safety during tech. study for electrical work, read it. Remember it. Don’t get complacent. Avoid touching anything with a high voltage potential to ground, and avoid grounding yourself in water. Wear good boots, and use insulated tools. Be careful on ladders. Stay far away from power company lines. Consider hiring that licensed electrician. He might not cost as much as you thought. Don’t allow pride to get you zapped.
For those of you already connected to the power grid:
Don’t connect any electrical system to the power grid, unless you know your local laws and regulations and know what you’re doing. Hire an electrician for that. Don’t forget the proper transfer switch as required. Call the local power company office first. They won’t bite you.
[I’m not an expert. I’m not even a licensed electrician. The information above is only rag chewing in an Internet discussion about solar energy. If you need authoritative advice, read from documents written by licensed electricians, power company representatives, electrical engineers and/or PV solar system industry representatives or other experts. Or ask them in person. Be careful! Learn as much as possible about safety in electrical work in advance! Enroll in a school for electrical work!]