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Ignorant people with idiotic opinions spreading fake news and trying to stir up trouble of which they know little and their audience know even less.

As a valley surfer who grew up in the sixties and loved to surf when I could get to the central coast nobody in the water cared about the color of your skin under a wet suit. The issue was if you were a local or not. When a swell hit with nicer sets of waves is when it was worst for non locals. Gremmies and kooks where not welcome at the best breaks reserved for the local crews. Everyone who surfs knows that. On average days nobody cared who was in the lineup.

As kids we used to paint swastikas and or rebel flags not because we hated jews or blacks, but just to be rebels and piss off adults and pull their chains. I never did but had friends that did just to be notorious.

If you were lucky enough to take a trip to the islands the big Samoan kids quickly identified you as a Haole....Holy boy JOJ (Holiday boy just off jet) and some spots on the north shore where not for white skinned surfers.

Surfing is glorious and there is nothing like the feeling of raw power when the ocean scoops you up and throws you down the face, or dumps you over the falls and shows you what it is like to be inside a giant human washing machine, or pins you down on the ocean bottom for a 30 second hold down that feels like Godzilla is stepping on you. The ocean don't care what your skin color is, your sex, how old you are, how experienced a waterman you are, but accepts all and treats everyone the same. She rewards the talented and the brave and the dedicated and will squash and thrash the kooks and gremmies.