KFAR KILA: When war came to the southern Lebanese village of Kfar Kila, a stronghold of the Hezbollah-led Islamic Resistance, it did not have very far to travel. A kilometre of olive groves, and decades of hatred and mutually divisive history, separate this impoverished mountain village from the uniformly red-roofed houses of Metula, Kfar Kila’s nearest neighbouring town. Except Metula is in Israel. They are so close that from the village you can see Israeli cars parked by their houses. So close that the border at one point — at the Fatima Gate — forms the eastern boundary of the...