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Tap and die? Experiences? Recommendations? Enlightenment?

Posted on 01/12/2012 10:29:33 PM PST by djf

Over the years, I have done quite a large amount of appliance/small engine/auto repair that I am wondering about going the tap-and-die route rather than running down to Home Depot or Lowes when I need a replacement.

So I am wondering what would be a good small hand set to start with (not 2 pricey) and what do you do about blanks? Blank bolts and nuts? I've never seen them but assume they must exist.

FR is the best place in the world to ask a question like this!

Thanks in advance!


TOPICS: Hobbies
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To: PeaceBeWithYou

go and get yourself a thread file.... this will clean up 90% of all problems you will see.......


41 posted on 01/13/2012 4:39:43 AM PST by joe fonebone (Project Gunwalker, this will make watergate look like the warm up band......)
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To: djf
For year I worked as an engineer where we made stainless nuts bolts from bar stock on an eight spindle lathe.

I always used Carbide drills taps and dies.

Spend the extra money, avoid Chinese products as their certifications are worthless. I have seen taps from China that were dead soft at the center.

Go carbide buy the best use REAL cutting oil not recycled motor oil, always go slow, and back out as you go forward to clear chips.

42 posted on 01/13/2012 5:06:52 AM PST by Mikey_1962 (Obama: The Affirmative Action President.)
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To: djf

bkmk


43 posted on 01/13/2012 5:13:48 AM PST by novemberslady
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To: Eye of Unk

I live 13 miles from the closest hardware store, and find myself needing bolt od different lengths all the time.

I go to Tractor supply and buy them by the poound, when I need one that doesnt have enough thread, I thread a longer one to the length I need. I also keep some threaded rod around and use that.

I sharpen my drill bits on a grinder, It isnt that hard to do, it just takes a little practice.

I have tried some of the drill but sharpeners and find that the grinder does a better job.Wear safety goggles.


44 posted on 01/13/2012 5:22:13 AM PST by Venturer
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To: Venturer

I can only suggest to the OP of the thread to learn as much is possible about fasteners, the grades, the thread types, why there is a coarse thread and why a fine thread such used for clamping where a coarse thread is for pulling.

being the chief nut turner at a concrete batch plant and having to keep a fleet of concrete mixers on the road in Alaska I have used a lot of different types of bolts and nuts.

Bowman industries used to come around selling me their fasteners but their prices went way too high. And being in a small town 35 miles from Anchorage doesn’t help either, fortunately we do have now several industrial supply houses now and thats excluding Lowes and Home Depot.

possibly the best alternative would be for the OP to order from Harbor Freight.


45 posted on 01/13/2012 5:33:50 AM PST by Eye of Unk (Liberals need not reply.)
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To: Mikey_1962

“and back out as you go forward to clear chips.”

Grandpa taught me that when I was 6 years old!

The only time I’d make a bolt or machine screw was when a replacement wasn’t available. Restoring ancient shotguns for club members was the only circumstance that forced me to make machine screws. Otherwise? Not worth the time and effort. But get a good set!


46 posted on 01/13/2012 5:39:29 AM PST by Dr. Bogus Pachysandra ( Ya can't pick up a turd by the clean end!)
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To: djf

Cheap tools are never a bargain.


47 posted on 01/13/2012 5:43:26 AM PST by Fresh Wind ('People have got to know whether or not their President is a crook.' Richard M. Nixon)
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To: Mikey_1962
For year I worked as an engineer where we made stainless nuts bolts from bar stock on an eight spindle lathe.

Stainless is horrible about "work hardening". When you cut it, the friction leaves a very hard surface, but just a few thousandths think. The trick to cutting or drilling it is that you have to get under the hardened layer from the previous cutting operation, and feed fast enough that it never gets a chance to harden under your bit. If you're drilling a hole and try to stop and restart the drilling process it's very difficult, and hard on the bits.

It's much easier to cut threads in stainless on a lathe because it's a continuous operation. Using taps and dies forces you to stop and back it out to clear chips and then restart.

48 posted on 01/13/2012 5:55:29 AM PST by tacticalogic ("Oh, bother!" said Pooh, as he chambered his last round.)
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To: djf
I've been a scientific instrument maker/designer/machinist/craftsman for more than 30 years. You do not want to make your own nuts and bolts, and for many reasons.

However, it's never a bad idea to have a good tool and die set. Make sure the dies are High Speed Steel and adjustable. Also, look for an additional die holder that has a guide for the diameter thread you are cutting. Dies are notorious for not starting straight. The taps are pretty straight forward.

My personal favorite type of tap, is a two fluted gun tap. They are not as easy to break.

Good cutting fluid/oil will make them last much longer. And cutting oil is the opposite of lube oil.
49 posted on 01/13/2012 5:59:24 AM PST by ZX12R (FUBO GTFO 2012 !)
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To: Vendome
grainger sells a thing called a drap. it drills the hole and taps it using a reverse drill.
50 posted on 01/13/2012 6:17:12 AM PST by skeeterman
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To: djf; Lazamataz

Tap and die:

What would happen if Laz were caught hitting it with a married woman.

I’m just sayin’.


51 posted on 01/13/2012 6:19:51 AM PST by JRios1968 (I'm guttery and trashy, with a hint of lemon. - Laz)
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To: djf

I would find the nearest Tractor Supply Center (TSC) where they sell “grade 5” nuts and bolts for under $3.00 per pound. Buy 10 pounds of assorted items, and you will likely have half of what you would ever need (of SAE threaded fasteners. Metric fasteners are another completely different story.) It is not realistic plan to to thread your own bolts. The only steel that threads easily is usually too soft to make strong bolts.


52 posted on 01/13/2012 6:34:24 AM PST by norwaypinesavage (Galileo: In science, the authority of a thousand is not worth the humble reasoning of one individual)
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To: djf

I would find the nearest Tractor Supply Center (TSC) where they sell “grade 5” nuts and bolts for under $3.00 per pound. Buy 10 pounds of assorted items, and you will likely have half of what you would ever need (of SAE threaded fasteners. Metric fasteners are another completely different story.) It is not realistic plan to to thread your own bolts. The only steel that threads easily is usually too soft to make strong bolts.


53 posted on 01/13/2012 6:36:12 AM PST by norwaypinesavage (Galileo: In science, the authority of a thousand is not worth the humble reasoning of one individual)
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To: ZX12R; All

Thanks!
Excellent advice from all.

I’m not talking about opening up some specialty shop or whatever, just that I like to tinker. I’m not going to rebuild the suspension in my car or whatever, but if something breaks or quits my first inclination is not to buy a new one, it’s to see if it’s fixable.

Also, I’ve had times when I could not find a part. If I can manufacture a fix then that works for me!


54 posted on 01/13/2012 6:46:05 AM PST by djf (http://www.freerepublic.com/focus/f-chat/2801220/posts)
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55 posted on 01/13/2012 7:43:21 AM PST by deoetdoctrinae (Gun-Free zones are playgrounds for felons)
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To: tacticalogic
Stainless is horrible about "work hardening".

When possible I used that to my advantage by rolling the threads on. The cold worked threads were incredibly strong.

56 posted on 01/13/2012 7:57:59 AM PST by Mikey_1962 (Obama: The Affirmative Action President.)
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To: Stanwood_Dave
Don’t be a Fool when drilling, WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!!!!!! You only get one set of eye’s, and Ten Fingers. I’m down to 9-3/4. Hint for safety first.

You can chew with false teeth. You can walk with a wooden leg. You CAN'T see with a glass eye. Wear safety glasses!!!

57 posted on 01/13/2012 10:58:04 AM PST by Antoninus II
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