How many cop or detective movies have you watched where the hero had a .38 revolver? Posted on 05/10/2018 5:10:02 AM PDT by w1n1
How many cop or detective movies have you watched where the hero had a .38 revolver?
Damn near all of them, right?
That’s because the .38 revolver is a ridiculously reliable gun. You won’t be winning any long distance sharpshooting challenges with it, but you will feel safe carrying one. Just look how confident those old-timey cops and private dicks were.
Why a .38?
First off, let’s talk about what makes the .38 caliber and a revolver worth carrying. Some people might consider the .38 and even the .38+p ammo to be outdated.
The .38 ammo is pretty much the same size as a 9mm. Where it IS different is the actual weight: a .38 is heavier than a 9mm.
Both have their benefits. The .38 is a little slower-moving but has more mass. The 9mm has more punch to it and travels faster.
One of the main reasons you’d want to carry a .38 this because it predominantly comes as a revolver. Revolvers, as we know, are very reliable. There are less moving parts and there’s less to go wrong. That’s why a lot of the police and other agencies used it in great quantities before the advent of reliable semi-automatic pistols.
Agencies eventually moved to the more common use of semi-automatic pistols but it wasn’t necessarily because of a lack of confidence in the caliber, it was more because of the greater number of rounds in each gun that semi-autos provide.
Here are some of the best .38's for CCW:
Ruger LCR-LG 38 Spl+P Revolver with Crimson Trace Lasergrips
The Ruger LCR comes in a lot of calibers, .38 just happens to be one. What you get with the LCR internal hammer, alloy frame revolver is is an ultra-lightweight, reliable carry gun. The internal hammer helps remove the possibility of any snags as you’re drawing it from your holster.
Taurus Model 85
The Model 85 is one of the most popular guns in the Taurus fleet. What makes it the popular kid in class is the +P capability. It's light and accurate—as accurate as a short barrel revolver can be.
Smith & Wesson M&P 340
The Smith & Wesson M&P 340 is a great option for a carry gun. They are lightweight and have an internal hammer making them ideal for a carry gun. Because they have an internal hammer, they are dual action only. They come with night sights, but if you want one, you can get the model with the Crimson Trace laser.
Colt Detective Special
This is the gun you see in most of the older movies from the 1920’s to the 1950’s. You’ll find a lot of people who modded their Colt .38 Special to fit their needs. Some cut the barrel, others got rid of the squared off butt of the grip, some cut the trigger guard, or whatever they needed. See the rest of the Best .38 Revolvers for CCW here.
I had a Colt Lightweight Agent for several years. It shot better than any other snubbie I have ever tried. Held 6 shots too.
I kept it loaded with wad cutters. Pleasant to shoot and I suspect they would have been deadly.
For me it has been 50 years with a .38 S&W snub for all the reasons listed in the article.
First handgun I bought, and still have, is a mid 50s era Det Special. It is deadly accurate, has never misfired. I also have my dad’s back up pistol from that era, same revolver. I still carry it from time to time, it just feels right to me. Have an original “seven tree” inside the pants holster and half a box of “super vels” left too.
My GF has that Taurus and it’s a bear to clean.
My father has a lady smith. Nice little gun and a good shooter.
One that can chamber .357 Magnum. .38 Special is not an adequate defensive cartridge.
I like the discussion topic, but this appears to be one of those goofy clickbait Top 5 articles written by someone who hasn’t actually shot one of these. The Taurus is hardly unique in “+P capability,”—I don’t think anyone makes a modern .38 that can’t handle +P. Colt hasn’t made the Detctive Special in years, and generally go for close to $2,000 or more—their modern .38 is the Cobra.
I’d probably go with a Smith 60 Pro Series or a Ruger SP101, though I,d consider going with a larger frame like a 686 or GP100.
The M&P 340 is a .357 Magnum/.38 Special. It has become my EDC since I started getting arthritis in my hands that makes it hard to rack a semi-auto in the event of a failure at a bad time. My M&P has the CT laser on it but I find the laser is useless. I quit buying laser-sighted hand guns. It is also no fun to shoot because of the wicked snap when using full-up .357 loads, but practice with standard .38’s is okay. The M&P 340 ain’t cheap but frankly, it’s worth it, IMO.
I had a recent-model Taurus .22 revolver, and was sorta relieved when it got stolen.
I have a Smith & Wesson Model 60, the first stainless revolver. Perfect for pocket or IWB carry.
I’ve had a 38s lcr in my pocket for years now. Hot, sweaty days or cold, snowy days it has never failed to fire.
I like that you can get the 340 without the lock, too, but agree with you on lasers. I just have a personal bias against shrouded hammer revolvers, even though I know full well that any defensive shooting will be in “dual action,” as the article puts it.
I’d probably go with the 686 or maybe the newly reintroduced 66. In carrying semis, I tried a single-stack micro 9, the M&P Shield, for a while, but have since gone over to carrying my full size Glock 21. The size doesn’t make that much difference to me, I’m not that paranoid about printing, and a full size pistol is just much easier to shoot well. In revolvers, the 357 recoil is much more tolerable in a mid-frame, though I never found it that bad in the SP101.
Regarding the Model 36. I was looking at and wanted to see what the factory spec was and the test loads the used for sighting since the Model 36 has a fixed ramp and not an adjustable rear sight.
I contacted S&W from their website and received the following in reply:
“Our factory spec for that model would be @ 10 yards hand held, it would have to hold at least a 2” group. We use 158gr SAAMI spec ammo.”
My intention was if I had purchased that Model 36 would have been to shoot ammunition matching what the factory used for sighting in the piece.
S&W was most helpful and the reply was literally overnight. I appreciate S&W commitment to answering questions regarding their product line. Although I am in disagreement with S&W on several other issues that have come up over the last few decades.
In another submission concerning +P for the Model 36 they did not recommend +P in a 36. However in a stainless model +P was okay to use according to the factory.
The author doesn't know anything. 9mm is not good for a revolver because of the design of the cartridge. The 38 has a lip at the bottom that is wider than the rest of the cartridge. It keeps the cartridge from sliding out the front of the cylinder. The 9mm has an indented waist at the botton of the cartridge and a lip that is not wider than the body of the cartridge. You have to use clips with a 9mm to keep the cartridge from sliding out of the cylinder. Clips are a pain in the neck, and you are apt to lose them.
Whichever you choose - just be sure to get a hammerless model.
“Because they have an internal hammer, they are dual action only.”
Kind of kills the writer’s credibility...as did mentioning that the trigger may “have a longer pole”.
He might try learning about revolvers before writing about them.
Uh oh...I carry a Model 60. External hammer. I’m doomed. My 686+ also has an external hammer.
I see Taurus as the Kia of guns. Cheap and adequate at best.
Rapid point shooting the Model 36 from waist high will obtain a "center of mass" group at ten yards.
If you want a semi-auto that racks easily you might try the Ruger Security 9 or, if you don’t mind the caliber (or the price) a Sig P238
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