Rose Fever: Pursuit of the perfect garden (a springtime vanity)

Spring fever has got me. I want to get out of the house, away from the computer, and dig in the dirt. Getting ready to start a new rose bed. Anybody else out there nuts about roses?

I lifted this list from another site:

Astilbe: Many varieties. Low growers of 8 inches to 2 foot blooms. Flowers are large fluffy plumes in shades of white, red, pink, salmon. Blooms in mid to late summer. Striking. Partial sun to open shade.

Bleeding Heart: These are great spring bloomers and mine perform even in my deepest shade. They die back in mid to late summer here.

Bugbane: Grows large- 3 to 4 ft tall. Gets bushy. Very, very fragrant white bottle-brush shaped flower plumes in late summer, fall. Repels insects. Deep roots. Partial sun, mine does ok in dappled shade with only a few hours of sun.

Columbine: Depending on variety, flower stems get 10” to 2 feet tall above foliage. Star-shaped bell-like flowers can be found in red, red and yellow, blue and white, all white etc. Likes dappled shade. Flowers sporadically through season, most in spring.

Cordyalis: (Related to the Bleeding Hearts)
Blue Panda: Lacey clumps of foliage put out lots of small, narrow electric-blue flowers. Sweetly fragrant. Really lovely. Requires good drainage, mine are in open to part shade. Bloom profusely all season. These hybrids can bloom themselves to death, sometimes you need to force them to rest by preventing bloom by lopping off the new buds for a month, a season or so. Generally prevent bloom after Sept. always. No or light fertilizer. Don’t mulch near roots. Sandy soil helps drainage.
Yellow cordyalis: Much less fussy than Blue Panda, these have no soil or light requirements. Supposedly will grow anywhere except in the soggy places. Same flowers, but yellow. Grow prolifically, bloom prolifically. Will self-seed. Invasive in zone 7, not in zone 5.

Cyclamen, Hardy: Low growers, like dry shade. Flat bulbs. Bright pink flowers and leaves show up in late summer/fall. Leaves are supposed to live all winter then die back in spring.

Daylilies: Will tolerate more shade than most people think.

Ferns of all kinds: Japanese painted fern is especially nice with its maroon and grey-green fronds. Likes organic matter in the soil.

Foxglove (digitalis): Shade partial sun. Tall spikes of flowers in several shades. Biennial.

Garden Phlox: Tall, 4-5 feet. Straight growing, leaves look weed-like. Nice in large mass. Bright flower clumps in white, pink, red. Self seed all over. Get raggedy but very colorful. Partial sun. Attracts humming birds.

Helleborus: (Christmas Rose-white, Lenten Rose-pink). Dark glossy leaves in groups of 5, evergreen. Very early bloomers (February-April) the blooms turn green as seed pods grow, mine still have them. Form bush-like mounds 12-15” tall, slower to get established. Nice winter color. Full shade.

Hostas: There are a many vareties with lovely foliage. Some have very fragrant blossoms too. However, the blooms are not their primary feature - it's their foliage. Many varieties. Grow in leafy clumps which slowly spread.

Iris cristata: This is a short (3-5 inches) clumping and spreading iris. It is usually lavender, you can find white. It requires decent drainage. This stuff has performed exceedingly well for me giving dense mats of color in spring.

Jacob’s ladder: About a foot-18”. Fern-like green and yellow foliage. Tiny blue flowers in spring.

Lamium: Invasive shade ground cover. Low growing. Small leaves look frosted with white stripe. Can get yellow-leaved varieties. Flowers in spring, various colors available. Full shade. Good for filling in under trees where nothing else will grow, but hard to get rid of once established.

Lily-Of-The-Valley (): Sweet scented white blooms in spring. 6-8 inches, broad upright leaves. Can spread quickly forming clumps. Full shade, cool moist spots.
Pink Lily-Of-The-Valley: Many times pink Lily-Of-The-Valley is not as invasive as the white.

Monarda (bee balm): Tall, can be weedy-looking like the garden phlox. Bright red flower heads. Butterflies and hummingbirds like them. Best in masses. Spread quickly. Partial sun-shade.

Pachysandra: Evergreen dark green ground cover. Deep shade to partial sun. Inconsequential white flowers in spring. Spreads well.

Pagoda lilies: Early spring woodlands flowers from a tuber. Yellow lilly shaped flowers about 2 inxches across on and 12-18 inch stem followed by broad low leaves. The plant disappears as the summer wears on.

Pulmonaria: 8-12 inches. Dark green leaves with attractive white spots. Small dark violet flowers in spring. There are also white and pink varieties.

Phlox Stoloniferus (sp?): A woodlands variety of phlox, partial to light shade. Flowers in pink, blue, or white on 8 inch stems in spring. Creeping ground cover.

Stargazer lilies (oriental hybrides): Will often get by with a few hours of sun a day and dappled shade part of the day.

Toad lily: Shade to full sun. Can get 2 or so ft tall, smooth green leaves. Small (1-2 inch across) orchid-like flowers. White with speckles, lavender. Blooms in late summer, fall. Hardy in zone 6 (CT)

Trilliums:

Vinca (myrtle): Evergreen viney ground cover, dark green leaves, nice little blue flowers in spring. Shade to part sun. Spreads well.

Prepping rose soil

http://www.rosemagazine.com/articles04/preparing_soil/

Spring is the time to begin thinking about the soil in your rose garden -- either renovating old soil in an existing garden or preparing for a new garden.

The four main elements of good rose soil are inorganic materials, organic materials, water and air. The composition is best described as a "loam." By definition, a loam is about 50% pore space, of which half is water and half is air. The remainder of the loam is about 44 - 46% inorganic material and 4 - 6% organic material. The inorganic material is a 3-1-1 ratio (or 60%-20%-20%) of sand, sediment or silt, and clay respectively. The organic material is composed of humus, materials which have naturally decomposed.

Quite honestly, most of us don’t live in a world with perfect loam. We must create it. Here are some pitfalls to watch for when building a quality rose soil.

# Use caution when incorporating sand into heavy clay soils. Over time, this sand will settle to form a "hard pan" below the soil’s surface much as if you were to put a concrete pad under the soil. This will trap water and prevent good drainage.

# Use caution when adding organic materials to improve existing soil or create a new loam. Too much organic material will drive soil pH into the acid range, and make insoluble precipitates of many of the nutrients needed for the roses. In acidic soils, limestone may be needed to raise soil pH.

# Organic matter must first consume nitrogen before it can decompose. When adding undecomposed organic materials, don’t forget to add some extra nitrogen into the mix. Depending on the material used, this could be anywhere from 1/4 pound to 1 1/2 pounds of nitrogen per 100 pounds of organic material added.

# Use caution when using peat moss to the mix. The material is very slow to decompose and can drive soil pH into something akin to a Louisiana bog if used in excess.

# When you have completed creating your soil blend, check the drainage. To do that, dig a foot-deep (30 cm) hole and fill it with water. If the water drains out in about 15 minutes, the drainage is great. If it takes longer, you need to improve the soil drainage further. If shorter, you may need to add more organic material to help retain it.

# In tight clay soils, consider "double digging" the bed. This is accomplished by digging out the soil to a depth of 12 in. (30cm) and placing it off to the side. Then a second 12 in. of soil is dug out and placed to a separate side. The bottom of the dug out area is improved with organic materials and/or gravel.

Then the top layer of soil is placed in the bottom of the dug area, and the second layer of soil is placed on the top of that -- essentially flipping the first two feet of soil. As each layer is reinstalled, be sure to include soil loosening agents and organic matter.

I've had to do this procedure on many occasion. It ain't fun, but the results are terrific!

http://www.rosemagazine.com/articles04/preparing_soil/

types of roses

Hybrid Teas, Grandifloras, Floribundas, Polyanthas, Miniatures, Shrubs, Climbers, and Old Garden Roses

By Steve Jones

When you purchase any new rose, it is helpful to know something about each type of rose, its growth habits, size, type of bloom, etc. Some require more care than others, and some are best left alone. These are the different types of roses.

Hybrid Teas
When most people think of a rose, they are thinking of hybrid teas. Normally a hybrid tea has a large bloom at the end of a long cane. They are the most popular roses sold at florist shops. They are generally upright growing plants from 3-6 feet and the blooms come in most colors, except blue and black. Examples include Double Delight, Mr. Lincoln, St. Patrick, Veterans' Honor, Gemini, and Brandy.

Floribundas
The floribundas were once called hybrid polyanthas. In the 1940s, the term floribunda was approved. They are usually smaller plants with smaller blooms that tend to come in clusters. There are some where the bloom comes singularly. The cluster types make great landscape plants. Comes in most colors. Examples include Iceberg, Angel Face, Playboy, Playgirl, Simplicity, Sexy Rexy, and French Lace.

Grandifloras
The grandifloras are allegedly a combination of hybrid teas and floribundas with some one-bloom stems and some cluster blooms. The grandiflora term was coined by nurserymen for the rose Queen Elizabeth, which was introduced in 1954, even though Buccaneer could have been argued as the first of this type of rose. The term grandiflora still remains, however, the term is losing distinction over time and could easily disappear. Examples include Queen Elizabeth, Gold Medal, and Arizona.

Miniatures
Miniature roses are roses that are smaller in bush, foliage and bloom size. The blooms can range from 1/2-inch up to 2 inches. Miniatures are very popular and can be grown in containers. The plants range in size from about 1-3 feet. Examples of miniatures include Behold, Fairhope, Irresistible, Kristin, and Miss Flippins.

Mini-Floras
Mini-floras are a new classification. They are too large to be a mini, but could be too small for a hybrid tea or floribunda. I find most of the mini-floras to be awkward in the landscape. Examples of mini-floras are Cachet, Autumn Splendor, Dr. John Dickman, and Butter Cream.

Climbing Roses
Climbing roses are mostly very vigorous roses that can grow to great heights. There are three general types. Large flowered climbers (LCI) are more modern and have stiff canes and usually have good repeat bloom. They can range in size from 8-20 feet. The blooms come in many colors and can have blooms singularly or in clusters. Examples include America, Altissimo, Fourth of July, and Berries 'n' Cream.

The rambler type of roses are usually older roses that are once blooming, usually in the spring or early summer. While once blooming, most will be covered with blooms for a month or more. They are excellent for training on pillars, pergolas, and trellises. The canes are pliable, and the blooms are small and come in large clusters. Examples are American Pillar, Seven Sisters, and Newport Fairy.

Next are the sports of hybrid teas, floribundas, and others, which resemble their bush counterpart except for their climbing growth habit. These usually have an outstanding spring bloom, followed by scattered blooms later in the fall. Examples include Cl. Double Delight and Cl. Queen Elizabeth.

Old Garden Roses
The old garden roses consist of rose classes that existed prior to 1867, the date of the first hybrid tea, La France. The classes include the species (wild) roses, albas, bourbons, centifolias, damasks, eglantines, gallicas, mosses, noisettes, portlands, teas, etc. They come in every growth and bloom pattern and color imaginable. They can range from 1 foot to over 50 feet in height. About half of these roses have good to excellent repeat bloom. Usually obtain through mail order sources. Examples include Lady Banks, Rose de Rescht, Baronne Prevost, and Sombreuil.

Shrubs
This is a catchall group. They are generally roses that are hybrids of species, or roses that do not fit nicely in other classes, such as David Austin "English" roses and Dr. Griffith Buck's roses. They are extremely varied botanically and most are available through mail order. Examples are Golden Celebration, Perdita, Hansa, Hawkeye Belle, Starry Night, and Ballerina.

Polyanthas
Polyanthas, the "petite" roses of yesteryear, are almost the forgotten class of roses. Of the 500 or so polyanthas introduced since 1875, there are only some 20 or 30 available, usually through mail order. These are low-growing bushes with small flowers in clusters. Common examples are Cecile Brunner, China Doll, Verdun, and The Fairy. Predecessor of the floribunda class.

http://www.scvrs.homestead.com/TypesOfRoses.html

Old Garden Rose Info

Species roses are the origin of all other rose classes, and often called "wild roses." They existed long before man by some 33 million years. They are usually single petalled blooms on plants from 18 inches to over 20 feet. Rosa foetida bicolor, or Austrian Copper (prior to 1590), is a commonly grown species rose. Most species are listed by their Latin name, beginning with "Rosa." There is also a double, or plena form of which Rosa roxburghii (1814), or the Chestnut Rose, is a good example.

In Graham Stuart Thomas' book Old Roses, he presents a chapter by C. C. Hurst, a renowned rose geneticist. Mr. Hurst claims that all modern rose classes come from four main species: Rosa rubra (Rosa gallica), Rosa phoenica, Rosa canina (Dog Rose), and Rosa moschata (Musk Rose). However, Rosa foetida, Rosa gigantea, and Rosa chinensis played a large part in the development of chinas, teas, and hybrid teas.

Gallicas are one of the oldest rose classes. They are once-blooming, small, bushy plants to 4 feet tall, with soft, fine thorns. The deep furrowed, rough leaves tend to grow outward or upward from the stem. Gallicas are well-known for their fragrance and intense colors, thus earning them the nickname, "Mad Gallicas." This class was popular from the early to mid 1800's. Charles de Mills (unknown date) and the striped Rosa Mundi (before 1581) are common gallicas.

Albas are once-blooming, upright, dense, tall plants (to 6-feet plus), which are very hardy and disease resistant. They are characterized by their soft blue-gray foliage and their stems with sparse, uniform thorns. Albas are believed to be a cross between Rosa canina and Rosa gallica, and were popular from the late 1700's to mid 1800's. Königin von Dänemark (1826) is one of the few pink albas and one of the most popular, along with Alba Semi-Plena (prior to 1867).

Damasks are known for their intense, heavy fragrance. Large pink or white blooms form on a medium sized plant (to 5 feet), which has a "mixed bag" of thorns. The foliage is large, matte, and folded to form a "V" down the center. The terminal leaflet in most damasks bends downward. Damasks are believed to be a cross between Rosa phoenica and Rosa gallica, and were popular through the 1700's and 1800's. Leda (1827) and Rose de Rescht (1940) are two of the most popular repeat-blooming damasks, even though Rose de Rescht may be misclassed. Ispahan (before 1802) and Marie Louise (1813) are two of the more popular once-blooming damasks.

Centifolias are the "cabbage roses" made famous in still-life paintings by the Dutch masters. Centifolia, or "one hundred petals," are tall plants over 6 feet, that are once-blooming. They mostly produce pink blooms and are known for their large showy sepals. They are believed to be a cross between Rosa damascena and Rosa alba, and were popular from the 1600's through early 1800's. Cabbage Rose (1596) and Fantin-Latour (unknown date) are two popular large centifolias, while Rose de Meaux (1789) and Petite de Hollande (1838) are popular dwarf centifolias.

The original moss rose was a sport of Cabbage Rose, although there is some evidence that damasks will also create moss sports. Mosses were named because of the mossy growth on the peduncles and sepals. This "moss" releases a piney fragrance when rubbed between the fingers. Most mosses are once-bloomers such as Crested Moss (1827). It is also known as Chapeau de Napoleon (Napoleon's Hat) as the sepals resemble the three-sided hat worn by Napoleon. Mosses are 3-6 feet tall plants. Some are repeat-bloomers, such as Salet (1854), one of the best exhibition mosses.

Chinas are repeat blooming, small plants from 18" to 3 feet tall. Most chinas have stems too weak to support the small, non-fragrant blooms that usually come in clusters. Green Rose (1845) is commonly seen at shows and makes a great filler material for rose arrangements. Chinas are also well known for their dramatic color change. Most will start off yellow or light pink, then change to deep pink or red before the petals fall off. Mutabilis (1896) produces this effect in grand fashion.

Teas are small to medium-sized plants to 4 feet tall. Some have good "hybrid tea" form, like Catherine Mermet (1869), but most open flat and full like Sombreuil (1850), one of the great exhibition OGR's. Teas are generally known for their large blooms on weak stems which cause the bloom to "droop." These roses are believed to be a cross between Rosa chinensis and Rosa gigantea, where the alleged "tea" scent came from.

Portlands. From the rose Autumn Damask, comes a short lived class called portlands. They are small, repeat blooming plants to 4 feet tall, with short peduncles, creating an overall appearance that the blooms "sit" in the foliage. Comte de Chambord (1860) and Rose du Roi (1815) are two of the most popular portlands. Portlands were popular in the mid to late 1800's. There are less than 20 portlands commercially available today.

Bourbons. An alleged chance cross between Autumn Damask and a china resulted in the bourbon class. Bourbons are a varied class. Most are repeat-blooming plants from 2 to 15 feet tall, with fragrant, full, and often quartered blooms. They were popular from the mid to late 1800's. Souvenir de la Malmaison (1843) and Louise Odier (1851) are two popular varieties in this class and are great show roses.

Hybrid perpetuals are the most commonly grown OGR's and the ones most likely to be seen at shows. They were very popular in the mid to late 1880's when there were more than 4,000 varieties available. Most hybrid perpetuals are repeat blooming, tall plants over 6-feet, with full, fragrant blooms in mostly pinks and reds. Paul Neyron (1869) has the largest blooms of all Old Garden Roses and is very popular, along with Marchesa Boccella (1842) and Baronne Prévost (1842). Hybrid perpetuals have a complex family history, coming mostly from bourbons, chinas, portlands, and teas.

An interesting rose trivia question is to ask the name of the only rose class that originated in the United States.

Answer: the noisettes were created in 1811 by John Champneys of Charleston, South Carolina. Noisettes are large, repeat-blooming, rambling plants up to 20-feet tall, with pliable canes. The blooms are usually produced in clusters, as with Nastarana (1879). They were also crossed with tea roses which produced large, single blooms, instead of clusters, such as with Madame Alfred Carrière (1879) and Maréchal Niel (1864).

For exhibiting, Old Garden Roses and shrubs may be shown with one set of a stem-on-stem condition, such as a "dog-leg," where the new growth emanates from older wood. The ARS Dowager Certificate is awarded to the best Old Garden Rose introduced prior to 1867, which includes "ancient," and those with unknown dates, but are known to have existed before 1867. The ARS Victorian Certificate is awarded to the best Old Garden Rose that was introduced during or after 1867, or has an unknown date of introduction. A new ARS Certificate for older shrubs and species is the Genesis Award.

Pruning Old Garden Roses is not difficult: Don't, if you can help it. Once-blooming OGR's should be moderately pruned right after blooming. The only winter pruning necessary is to remove dead or diseased canes completely. Repeat blooming OGR's can be pruned back 1/3 safely, but some can be pruned harder, such as Marchesa Boccella. As with modern roses, remove dead, diseased, crossing, and small growth. OGR's less than three years old should not be pruned.

Shrubs are not Old Garden Roses. This class originated as a catch-all group for roses that didn't fit into a specific class, therefore, Shrubs are the most diverse of all rose classes. There are two general types of Shrub roses: those listed by a family name, such as hybrid musks, hybrid rugosas, and kordesii, and those simply listed as (S) in Modern Roses and the Handbook For Selecting Roses, which includes English Roses, Griffith Buck Roses, Landscape Roses, and Ground Covers.

http://www.scvrs.homestead.com/OGRprimer.html

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